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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Slowly working on my K24a3 drivetrain conversion. Car is a 1987 Bertone X1/9. Just finished up the wide body conversion this past summer, so now I'm ready to chop up the engine bay :D.











This has been done before, so there is a subframe kit which includes mounts, custom axles, shifter & cables.

Motor & trans came from a JDM importer in CA. 2005 TSX, 65K drivetrain.



Kit is designed for K20A2, so I had to swap the shifter module, right inner axle, oil pump/baffle/pan for >'04 RSX style.







Using K-Tuner modded '04 accord (drive by cable) ECU.

The cooling system, intake & exhaust need to be modded to fit the chassis. T/stat is Volvo C30.

made a custom adaptor to mate that to the bracket & stock pipes





RBB Intake cut & wrapped under the runners. Intake sits up against firewall, so stock (PRB, etc) runners are not user-friendly.




Built a header using 2" SS mandrel bends. Chopped the flange off the stock header. Length is dictated by chassis space.



Cone engineering collector & cone



Collector can't be welded until I can situate the motor in the chassis.



Chopped ends off stock cables & welded 10-32 ends to fit the custom shifter
cables



Bracket I made to hold the shifter cable bracket in the required orientation







Should be starting on the frame cutting this spring, after I do the AWD conversion on my Volvo C30T5
 

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What a great project! We had an H series powered X1/9 locally that dominated the drag scene a few years ago. Awesome little cars.

Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Slow going at the moment. Too cold to do much outside.

Figuring out changes to the AC system. Converting from VIR to orifice tube/ accumulator setup



Accumulator positioning options



Making brackets to set the compressor up top. No way to set it down in the factory Honda setup



Will be similar to this when in the bay:

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Still a long way off from install. Made a sheet metal brake some time back in order to fabricate the frame insert panels required for the K24 subframe kit.



MFactory LSD going in. Ring gear bolts were not left hand thread.



SNap ring located



All back together



Had to get the block bored & honed due to rust in #4 bore.



NPR 87.5 RL5 pistons going in



King rod bearings



K24 balance shaft oil feed plugged



Blox oil pan baffle



Waiting for my modified VTEC gear to come back from the machine shop before I finish assembly of the motor - getting hub machined for an additional 5º total advance. Have the '07 TSX intake cam to go with it





Had trouble finding the correct water pump - turns out the JDM K24a3 uses the same pump as later Civic/CSX

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Slight detour while I did the AWD conversion to my Volvo C30



Stripping rear end parts from Donor S40



New CV's



Hubs



AWD LSD



Had to make a tool to remove the two (different sizes) fuel senders



Replace the Haldex Motor, Filter, etc.



Fuel system going in



then rear end



Drop front subframe for AWD transaxle & transfer case install





Making DP & exhaust







Added WG to use as exhaust dump. Had a Ecutout, PITA to maintain that.



strip interior to run Haldex network wiring harness

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Intial frame cuts to fit the K24/drivetrain





extra work with rust from engine mount reinforcement plate rust through





fitting & welding the subframe



needed to cut out the trunk floor. Going to make it removable



reworking the right rail





test fit the drivetrain







 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cut out trunk floor & made new crossbrace & floor framing




Shifter support frame







Moving brake lines out of engine bay - used extra lines I had made when I bought CEIKA brakes for my old Volvo V70R



Templates for added frame section and bulkhead








Harness pass throughs





Aperture



 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bay mods done























850/x70 fuel filter



V70 Fuel pressure pod & lines (eurospecsport adjustable FPR)





making a V70 clutch master work



740/GM accumulator mod

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Drivetrain back in



Modified brake lines to run outside the engine bay, used the CEIKA flex hoses from my old V70AWD





Suspension all back in, my custom Coilovers (Bicknell sleeves, VW Tubes, Bilstein inserts) Acura integra swaybar, Volvo C30 end links





Car back on the ground, moved it into the garage for the rest of the work, too cold to work outside now





Hooked up the heater & tank hoses, TB & intake hose ( from 760 B280)



Using a Volvo/VDO 5bar oil pressure sender to feed a fuel pressure guage in the dash



Had to rework the header I made to clear the rear crossmember, next I have to weld the collector & build the rest of the exhaust



Finsihed up the AC compressor lines



Ran new 0 gauge battery cable back to the starter feed - holesaw new opening for larger cable



smaller gauge to feed the stock fusebox/relay panel



Modified throttle lever & custom cable setup







soldering barrel back on after determing correct length





cleaning up the tunnel now the throttle cable & battery cables are run

 

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Discussion Starter #12
more AC work to do

remove expansion valve



add orifice tube, remove receiver/drier




Building the exhaust. Took the resonator off an S40 AWD exhaust, and the hangers.





















Finished up the water passage outlet, V70 t/stat neck



Finshed the adaptor housing and Volvo C30 t/stat housing install

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today.

Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD



cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this





Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached.





air gap between the shield and panel



two sections will be cut & welded as one



The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay



Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header



cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity


Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it



 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wife is sick, feel like I'm getting sick also. Low energy, so I just futzed around for a bit. I did get the header support resolved though.

made a bracket that mounts underneath on the block - wasn't happy with the idea of a side brace. The factory elbow bolts to that, and then a SS tab will be welded to the header collector





had to add a vertical section for the upper securing bolt of the elbow bracket. Bolts are welded on the backside.



Honda bracket goes thus, with the header bracket on the other side



All bolts are easy enough to access, nothing fiddly here





Header has to be installed through the exhaust bay....



I cut up the Acura swaybar end links and used them to make the upper support brackets for the heat shield





drilled a new hole at the base, and transferred the isolating collar from the old lower section. Had to drill one side off & then silver solder it back in place



Have to make & weld a tab to the collector for that.

Lastly, I started laying out the heat shield divider for crossmemember area. Probably going to drill & install a series of SS M5 rivnuts & use SS M5 hardware to secure it.

 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Wife is sick, feel like I'm getting sick also. Low energy, so I just futzed around for a bit. I did get the header support resolved though.

made a bracket that mounts underneath on the block - wasn't happy with the idea of a side brace. The factory elbow bolts to that, and then a SS tab will be welded to the header collector





had to add a vertical section for the upper securing bolt of the elbow bracket. Bolts are welded on the backside.



Honda bracket goes thus, with the header bracket on the other side



All bolts are easy enough to access, nothing fiddly here










Finished welding the headers, so that is installed & torqued to spec.





plugging away at seam welding all the flanges - only got three done this evening. another 5 to go , I think.



O2 sensors installed.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Stainless Works (2.5" 4"x8"x14" body chambered "Turbo") muffler arrived this morning. I had emailed them on Thursday when it didn't show as shipped (they said 2 weeks from time of order to ship), and they said they were a couple weeks behind (!) and that I might see it by New Years. I replied indicating I really wasn't happy with that outcome, and if they had indicated at the time of order that delivery could take around a month I may well have looked elsewhere. To their credit, I got a shipping notice Friday morning.

Got it welded to the I/O pipes I had made for the Magnaflow muffler, with a little adaption due to the difference in muffler dimensions.

Seem to have good clearances all around. I'll see what happens when it's operating on the road.





Have to cut the tailpipe & add the RedTail SS tip. Not going to do that until the car is down & level so I can be sure the extension/offset is right.







the fact that it's not level is somewhat of a bother - however, not enough to compel me to rework it.





With that out of the way , I started in on all the wiring that needs to happen. Took care of all the rear deck wiring



Next I'll do the relay wiring in here for the starter & bay fan, then move to the trunk for the ECU /EMS management wiring. Not really looking forward to that. Problem is I don't have a concrete plan on how best to lay it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally had a breakthough in terms of having a direction for the ECU, bus bars & relay box layout. Slow day at work, so I did some sketching to figure it out. Was thinking along these lines (in the left cavity, vertical strip on the right being the left frame rail):



played around with some cardboard, and then made the aluminum version (used the neighborhood watch sign). Recessed to keep the ECU as far in the fender well as possible. Bolted to inner wheel arch and taillamp support.





Then I figured out the support for the relay box, and the bus bars





template:



cut & folded, rivnuts to secure the relay box & bus bar. Pos bar will go to the right



anchor at the base - using the bolt that also secures the exhaust hanger plate



Now I can get on with the actual wiring, once I get back from visiting my daughter & grandchildren in Orlando.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Made a throttle pedal return spring using a Volvo 240 pedal spring. With the cut down pedal lever arm, the TB spring is not strong enough by itself to give positive return of the pedal









Re-installed the repaired carpet from the '82 parts car. Still more wiring to do in the cabin before the seats, etc., go back in.





Put eyelets on the Pos/neg cables that will feed the bus bars. Routed like this, the whole assembly can be installed/removed as needed with the cable attached.



Painted the relay box/bus bar support, and started on the wiring to the relays. All the switching triggers (pin3, 'ground' leg) need to go to the EMS/ECU harness. Since I want to be able to unplug and remove both this and the EMS harness independently, I'm going to add a connector for all the trigger wires rather than pin them directly to the relay box.



I got the relays wired today, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit







6 pin TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin Mini-Timer for the power/ground feeds



Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use.

[IMG]


Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections.

[IMG]


[IMG]


left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling

[IMG]


Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid.

[IMG]


[IMG]


About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage
:(


EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds.

Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86.

I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85.


[IMG]




  1. Added another relay to the trunk relay box for AC clutch engagement. Not sure I can use the ECU AC Clutch relay & fan relay signals. Looks like the setup uses CANbus signals from the HVAC control head to switch those two signals to ground for relay engagement. Just going to wire it using the original AC clutch feed as switched power to the relay, in case I can figure out a way to use the EMS grounding later on.

    [IMG]

    [IMG]



    [IMG]


    [IMG]


    I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well

    [IMG]


    primed and painted the bracket

    [IMG]


    Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top

    [IMG]


    [IMG]


    gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through

    [IMG]


    Fan

    [IMG]


    PWM controller

    [IMG]


    finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place.

    [IMG]



 
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