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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

What mods do you recommend for a K-series engine
(I have a K24A3, but technically, it's just an EDM K24A2 block with squirters, true VTEC and stuff), to get better reliability on track (time attack, auto-x, rally)?

The engine is currently bone stock (sans intake/exhaust manifolds).
My fuel tank is custom, so issues regarding fuel starvation will be solved.

But oil starvation and cooling could be still a problem.

Stock oil pump with balance shafts, or a modded K20 / S2000 one?

Stock oil pan + accusump, or some modded/baffled oil pan
(are there any baffled oil pans, that work with the k24a2 oil pump?)

Timing chain tensioner?

Cam tower oiling mod?

Issues I need to address regarding of cooling? Swirl tank, etc?
Or just a bigger radiator (currently using EP3 one)

Thanks :)
 

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Stock oil pump with balance shafts, or a modded K20 / S2000 one?
Remove balance shafts and use K20 or S2000 one.

Stock oil pan + accusump, or some modded/baffled oil pan
(are there any baffled oil pans, that work with the k24a2 oil pump?)
I use a moroso road race one, and have used the knock off OBX one... both work fine, but I also have the K20 oil pump.

Accusump is a bandaid fix, from what I've read. Better: dry sump.

Timing chain tensioner?
New OEM.

Cam tower oiling mod?
Can't hurt... but not necessary unless you are doing enduros.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks :)

Yeah, I was considering dry sump too. For a moroso + an upgraded oil pump, we could almost get a dry sump pan + pump, and DIY the rest (custom made, but simple parts like tanks, pulleys and hinger are way cheaper here in eastern europe)

I was considering a Hybrid Racing tensioner. Is that way better then the oem one, or just marketing? :)
 

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the moroso is proven to work (read: James Houghton Ktuned DC2), that pan requires a PRB oil pump upgrade. That pan also holds an extra 2qts of oil so you should be fine unless you're in some long high lateral G turn that last more than 6+ seconds (long left handers can be certain death to K-series).

If you're on stock cams or certain aftermarket cams, an OEM PRB tct is perfectly fine and reliable.
 

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the moroso is proven to work (read: James Houghton Ktuned DC2), that pan requires a PRB oil pump upgrade. That pan also holds an extra 2qts of oil so you should be fine unless you're in some long high lateral G turn that last more than 6+ seconds (long left handers can be certain death to K-series).

If you're on stock cams or certain aftermarket cams, an OEM PRB tct is perfectly fine and reliable.
^+1

I just replaced the stock oilpan on the K24a2 with the Moroso unit and from a completely dry motor it took 7.5 quarts. If you get the Moroso unit, make sure to tighten/use thread sealant on the bungs if they are not in use. Also, so far just a nice layer of hondabond has done just fine to seal things up FWIW.
 

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^ to add...

I'd bend the edges/corners of the trap doors inwards a bit so the door doesn't get fully stuck closed against the trapdoor wall caused from oil stiction. I also suggest opening up the dip stick hole up a bit larger than it comes with. I'm finding that when inserting the dip stick it seems to have trouble finding the hole lol. Feels like its almost bending the dip stick end if it is missing.

Quick recap of Moroso K-series oil pan tech tips:

- requires a PRB oil pump, any other pump is incompatible with it
- hondabond the 2 Allen bungs for a solid seal
- pan-to-block mating surface is wider than an OEM pan, so a fat layer of Hondabond is required
- shorter 10mm bolts are required (K20A3 oil pan bolts should suffice)
- open up the dipstick hole for better dip stick clearances (optional)
- slightly bend both corners of the all the trap doors (inwards) to prevent possible stiction (optional)
- a K20A3 flywheel cover will be needed; A/A2/Z1/Z3 cover is incompatible
- lowest pan edge sits approx 1/4" lower than a PRB (A2/Z1) oil pan
- pan holds 2 extra qts of oil over stock pan
 

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^ to add...

I'd bend the edges/corners of the trap doors inwards a bit so the door doesn't get fully stuck closed against the trapdoor wall caused from oil stiction. I also suggest opening up the dip stick hole up a bit larger than it comes with. I'm finding that when inserting the dip stick it seems to have trouble finding the hole lol. Feels like its almost bending the dip stick end if it is missing.

Quick recap of Moroso K-series oil pan tech tips:

- requires a PRB oil pump, any other pump is incompatible with it
- hondabond the 2 Allen bungs for a solid seal
- pan-to-block mating surface is wider than an OEM pan, so a fat layer of Hondabond is required
- shorter 10mm bolts are required (K20A3 oil pan bolts should suffice)
- open up the dipstick hole for better dip stick clearances (optional)
- slightly bend both corners of the all the trap doors (inwards) to prevent possible stiction (optional)
- a K20A3 flywheel cover will be needed; A/A2/Z1/Z3 cover is incompatible
- lowest pan edge sits approx 1/4" lower than a PRB (A2/Z1) oil pan
- pan holds 2 extra qts of oil over stock pan
Thanks for posting that info, that will be a big help for folks. Moroso sells a stud kit for the pan as well part number 38366 (6mm stud kit). I used some blue loc-tite on the studs which seems to be working fine. One thing that I noticed with the stud kit is a little interference with the intermediate shaft bracket when the stud was seated to the right height (I just install it 2/3rds the way in and it was fine). The dipstick tip is a good one! I wish i would have done that before sealing things up, I picked up a Ktuned dipstick and the hole finder on it is bigger than the stock one making it hard to get it in without bending. haha
 

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I'm running a K24A JDM motor with the RBB head from the honda odyssey absolute basically same engine as the USDM TSX motor on my EG Civic swap. The Civic is build for endurance racing where from 9 hours to 14 or even 24 hours. The best is keeping everything factory even the oil pan I may suggest. If you are not going to rev the motor pass 7800 to 8K rpm, the stock balance shaft oil pump will be enough.

I don't believe the accusump is a band aid as Canton racing has been around I think the 70's or 80's? I have bunch of friend who is running the K for endurance racing and they are all using it. I think for the cost, it is a great tool. If you have the $$$, of course dry sump is the way to go.

I mean it depends how much money you are willing to put in and what level of racing you want to achieve. I think for reliability, trying to keep mostly as OEM as possible is the best way to go. Honda knows how to build engines for reliability.
 
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