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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I’m thinking about picking up a 04-08 k24a2 from the tsx but the jdm version, the k24a. I can’t find any good usdm k24a2 so I’m probably gonna have to go with jdm. I’ve been seeing a couple of post on the internet saying that the jdm versions only have the real vtec on the intake side and not exhaust, Is this true? I know I can ask the dealer to pull the valve cover for pics. If I’m gonna go this route I want to get the best version tho. I know some versions have about 197-200hp but what jdm versions almost have 205hp?
 

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2002-2004 Type S PRB ecu, then send it to Hondata for Kpro.

Yes the 5spd tranny will work on the K24a2. You need the K24 passenger side upper mount bracket to make the engine fit right b/c the K24 is 19mm taller than the K20a3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m planning on having the motor sit for a couple of months to let me upgrade it. I know people put on k20 heads but is there any heads that you don’t have to adjust the valve train or is that required for all k20 heads?
 

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I’m planning on having the motor sit for a couple of months to let me upgrade it. I know people put on k20 heads but is there any heads that you don’t have to adjust the valve train or is that required for all k20 heads?
If you swap the head it will need the valve lash adjusted before startup. If you buy the engine from an importer with low miles (like they all should have) chances are the lash is in spec but it doesn’t hurt to give a fresh adjustment. If you are talking about replacing the valvetrain itself as in the springs, retainers etc that is entirely optional. The k20 valvetrain is a slight upgrade from 04-05 tsx RBB-1 or RBB-2 cylinder heads I believe.
 

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So if I threw on a k20a2 head all I would need to do is to make it’s all freshly adjusted and it’s all good?
Yes; new oem head gasket and new oem head bolts or ARP studs is what I would recommend. I just picked up an oem TSX head gasket for about $100 shipped and the head bolts are the same so it’s pretty affordable to keep that oem Honda quality in my opinion 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome. I should get the type s oil pump right? Plus for the engine bracket I only need the passenger side k24 mount right and I can keep my drivers side motor mount? I can’t remember it exactly. Are aftermarket motor mounts worth it or is it just for the looks? I appreciate all the answers, just mapping my project out for the most cost effective way so I can save a little money.
 

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Awesome. I should get the type s oil pump right? Plus for the engine bracket I only need the passenger side k24 mount right and I can keep my drivers side motor mount? I can’t remember it exactly. Are aftermarket motor mounts worth it or is it just for the looks? I appreciate all the answers, just mapping my project out for the most cost effective way so I can save a little money.
You will need the aftermarket mounts that are k swap specific. The engine and transmission are arranged opposite compared to d/b series. I am using $200 EMUSA EKK2 mounts with an eg/dc subframe and have had no issues. Quality was comparable to the Hasport mounts I used to have. You will need the CRV k24 post Mount for the block. The type s oil pump is up to you. I am running my k24a all stock with balancer shaft oil pump and 25 VTC and it performs very well but if you are taking the head off the engine already and have the funds to do a new oem k20 oil pump that would be the best time to do so.
 

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Since the engine is used and the miles are not able to be determined, if it were me along I would completely refresh the timing chain assembly (timing chain tensioner, all three guides, timing chain, oil chain, oil chain tensioner, oil chain guide). It will be a pain in the butt later down the road once the engine is in the car.

I would also run an aftermarket engine mount kit with either 60A to 70A rated inserts. The car will vibrate like hell but you will notice a difference in acceleration, handling, and less engine movement. Absolutely worth the small cost.
 
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