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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi

I'm putting a K24 in my old 1985 Toyota Pickup. Just for fun. Well it started out fun. This is an extreme budget build so there isn't anything too fancy (3-4k$). I just use the truck to carry wood or go to home depot. There aren't any fun places to drive in mid Michigan. It is a good learning experience also.

Stock K24A2
McGregor Motorsport Bell Housing
Stock 2WD Toyota "Pickup" (actually it has subaru WRX front seats)
S2000 header modified
Ktuner 2005 RSX ECU
Walbro 255 in tank
VW 4 bar pressure regulator/filter
That's about it




I plan to post some more pics later and go over some of the problems and so on.

Please enjoy

here is a shot of the S2000 header

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anyone know the pinout of a K20/K24 3 wire IAC valve is. The IAC is from a 2004 Accord I believe. I don't have the harness/plug so I don't know how to wire it. Should be BLK , BLK/RD, and YEL/BLK, but I don't know where to put them.



Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I found the answer to the IAC wiring issue. Through some detective work--through one of kmvguy83's posts and a youtube video. The ylw/blk wire is center. This is +12V from main relay. The rest can be found by testing easy.

Thought I would post a pic of the intake I made by strategically hacking to pieces the TSX one and adding some aluminum square tubing and round tubing here and there while practicing with a welder:

 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Very nice Pickup Truck

I found the answer to the IAC wiring issue. Through some detective work--through one of kmvguy83's posts and a youtube video. The ylw/blk wire is center. This is +12V from main relay. The rest can be found by testing easy.
That's fine :D

...pic of the intake I made by strategically hacking to pieces the TSX one and adding some aluminum square tubing and round tubing here and there while practicing with a welder...
Nice welds poopoop, seems to be you know precicely what to do for that kind of quality :). I am curious about why you did shorten the runners that massive?

Anyway I like your build much, a great idea and very good execution for a low budget build :new_slayer:

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you LotusElise,

No technical reason for chopping that much out of the runners (~3 inches). More for packaging (brake master cylinder in the way). I know this affects the power band and doesn't match the factory setup, but I plan to make the induction more forceful in nature for version 2.0 if you know what I mean.

After reading some of your Elise thread :worship: I'm a bit embarrassed by my answer, but let's call this project a hack job by a washed up engineer.

Here is a pic showing what happened in the massacre:

 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...No technical reason for chopping that much out of the runners (~3 inches)...but I plan to make the induction more forceful in nature for version 2.0 if you know what I mean...
Hey that's going to be a pretty cool Pickup Truck engine Setup...I would have missed the torque, but the 2.0 upgrade sounds more than adequat :D. TC or SC, what is your way? As it is a 2 RWD I would route to SC for better load control, especially when carrying trailers/wood uphill in corners, those trucks are very light in the backtail. Isn't yours that light there too?

...but let's call this project a hack job by a washed up engineer...
Nice words ("hack job" and "washed up") to know, man :D. As a non-native speeker those are like a sparkling fountainhead for me. No need to hide anything, this project is pretty cool fun and learning stuff...I like it very much!

I am really looking forward to see that project growing.

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
IT RUNS

after much wiring and creating this mess of spaghetti:



Too loud to tune in the neighborhood so the exhaust is next. $40 ebay cat and $30 ebay perf core muffler. Using some mandrel bent 409SS I got back when I worked at an OEM exhaust system manufacturing company.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you cruzan, do you have pics of you 1jz? I'll bet that is a rocket.

I do have a few pics of the exhaust coming together. It is still too loud for my taste though so I bought another ebay muffler to put behind the rear axle. I think being 2.5"makes in difficult to attenuate perhaps.

First time using v-band clamps and love them.


Cat welded in
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Congratulations man!

You are going to street tune it yourself?

Markus
Thanks Markus, I don't really have a tuner near by with a dyno, so I might be stuck with street tuning. Still have a lot of learning to do. Luckily Ktuner came with a TSX base maps that can be loaded onto the RSX computer without electronic throttle. Engine seems to be quite happy. It's probably too rich as I'm running 4 bar fuel, which is a tad higher than factory pressure. I'll have to compare air fuel ratios with someone who knows what they should be haha.

From what I hear exhaust gas temperature is another good way to tune. Might try it out.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Nice weld lines man! I am looking forward to see it installed :D.

...It's probably too rich as I'm running 4 bar fuel...
Very likely :D

...air fuel ratios...what they should be...
  • Idle lambda around 0.98-0.99 (14.7 AFR fuel around 14.5)
  • Closed loop lambda at 1.00 (-"- at 14.7)
  • Open loop lambda at 0.87-0.92 (-"- at 12.8-13.5)
Last intervall depends on the knocking likely ness, combustion duration fuel pattern, mixing, engine speed and load and engine cooling setup.

From what I hear exhaust gas temperature is another good way to tune. Might try it out.
Good measurement system to balance the cylinders, but a wise man once said giving wrong assumption into a correct working system, leads permanet and systematically into failure :D. Meaning if one cylinder has a bad homogenitiation of fuel and air due to a foul-tending injector, wrong placed ETG or offsetted ETG or a foul spark plug and you don't recognize it as a fail system, you would compensate a failure by an fail offset of fuel.

Markus
 

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Hey man. I trying. To do same. Swap in my truck how u got the motor on there
Were u get the adapter plate. What tranny give me a push
I'm also about to do the same. I have just got into contact with Machgregor Motorsports in New Zealand and they have the K to W bellhousing for about $645. So far I haven't found a place to do the wiring or the engine mounts but I am still looking.
 

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I'm also about to do the same. I have just got into contact with Machgregor Motorsports in New Zealand and they have the K to W bellhousing for about $645. So far I haven't found a place to do the wiring or the engine mounts but I am still looking.
Question what clutch and flywheel do you use for this swap
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well sadly I sold this truck to another fellow a couple years ago. Got 2 kids and moved and so on--not enough time to develop this bad boy. Is it still the only K24 toyota pickup?
If I recall correctly the clutch and flywheel were TSX (exedy HD). Also TSX slave and conveniently the stock pickup clutch master worked with this slave (must have been similar displacement).
The mounts were custom. I fabricated one side with steel plate and tube. The other side used a modified CRV mount I believe. Sorry I dont have pictures of that.
I also failed to mention you need a custom driveshaft--I did anyway. For testing purposes I (very carefully) welded an extension to the stock driveshaft. By some miracle it was balanced and survived all my full throttle jabs. Not something I would recommend though.

Well now that I live out in the country with a 30x40ft pole barn (soon to have a 2 post lift) we'll have to see what honda powered contraption we can come op with next. Any ideas?
 

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Do a Tacoma Turbo K24. Or a AC Shelby Cobra kit car with a Turbo K24 with dual side pipe exhaust. J series in the Cobra kit car would be nice.

Your barn size is awesome.
 
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