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I'm looking for some information that I haven't found so far.

Problem: Without tightening throttle cable to hold butterfly open a bit (~3-4%), the engine will NOT idle or stay running at all. It is as if the motor can't get enough air on its own. Are there any mods necessary to the stock type s throttle body to allow enough airflow at idle? Aside from having to open throttle, the engine runs fine.

Attempted remedy: I have adjusted the idle air control duty cycle, air to fuel mixture, and have cleaned all parts. No vacuum leaks.

Swap details: DC2 ITR chassis, complete stock K24A2, RBC mani, stock Type S TB, 50* VTC, KPro V4. This is a clean swap, everything is new except for a low mileage K24A2 motor and throttle body.
 

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I also have a K24 with Type S and had a similar issue except with low/high idle. Tightening the throttle cable helped the car stay on but it would get stuck when I would do hard driving since it was so tight. What I did instead was take an Allen key and small wrench (forgot size) and adjusted the idle from the bottom part of the TB's rotor. I loosened the nut and turned the screw to the right which helped me adjust the idle without messing with the throttle cable.

Not sure what the correct way is, but this helped me and my car runs and idles great. Something worth mentioning is that I'm not running an IACV and I'm using a Karcepts block off plate as well as their cruise control delete.



*Sorry for the crappy Google picture lol*
 

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I also have a K24 with Type S and had a similar issue except with low/high idle. Tightening the throttle cable helped the car stay on but it would get stuck when I would do hard driving since it was so tight. What I did instead was take an Allen key and small wrench (forgot size) and adjusted the idle from the bottom part of the TB's rotor. I loosened the nut and turned the screw to the right which helped me adjust the idle without messing with the throttle cable.

Not sure what the correct way is, but this helped me and my car runs and idles great. Something worth mentioning is that I'm not running an IACV and I'm using a Karcepts block off plate as well as their cruise control delete.



Sorry for the crappy Google picture lol
I got a question i got a im an tb off a acura k24 motor i put the in n tb on my accord k24 but theres a black box on the acura tb what do i do
 

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Try Adjusting the throttle plate stop screw, Adjust it a little bit and see if it holds idle, once it holds steady keep adjusting the little screw till you get it to idle around 750 to 950 rpm and lock the nut. This is what i did with my Skunk2 TB and also deleted the IACV.

After its adjusted re set the TPS in Kpro and make sure to get the TPS as close to 0 when closed and as close to 100% at WOT then save. You will have too loosen the 2 TPS bolts to reset the TPS to 0 when closed.
 

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I'm looking for some information that I haven't found so far.

Problem: Without tightening throttle cable to hold butterfly open a bit (~3-4%), the engine will NOT idle or stay running at all. It is as if the motor can't get enough air on its own. Are there any mods necessary to the stock type s throttle body to allow enough airflow at idle? Aside from having to open throttle, the engine runs fine.

Attempted remedy: I have adjusted the idle air control duty cycle, air to fuel mixture, and have cleaned all parts. No vacuum leaks.

Swap details: DC2 ITR chassis, complete stock K24A2, RBC mani, stock Type S TB, 50* VTC, KPro V4. This is a clean swap, everything is new except for a low mileage K24A2 motor and throttle body.

Pictures would help, especially of the throttle body.
You might have an 05-06 Type-S (K20Z1) throttle body (same one shown above in cfcldh's post). The problem with the Z1 tb is the casting for the map sensor vacuum is a hole instead of a channel. The 02-04 type-s tb's have a channel for a vacuum source. So if you use the Z1 tb on any K-series intake manifold besides a Z1 PRB intake manifold you will choke the MAP sensor vaccum hole and the car will run and start up like doo-doo, stumbling on throttle response etc. See photo below for example.

Also if you ever tampered with the TPS sensor, it may need re-calibration.

Also if you accidentally hooked the MAP sensor into the TPS or vice versa, even once and tried to fire up the car, there's a pretty good chance you blew out the MAP sensor. When this happens, no CEL is thrown at all which makes it difficult to diagnose. If you're not sure if you got your MAP and TPS crossed, the TPS connector always has a red wire in the middle. So grab another MAP sensor as a test and see if thats the issue.


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