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Hey guys I’m going to buy a K24 short block but need some opinions. I’m looking at 2 short blocks from different companies and one is from drag cartel, the other short block is made from 4 pistons racing. I’ll post pictures of them. But I want to know which one is more tough or able to make more power? Plus can these blocks fit to a 2005 ep3 k20a 5 speed transmission? I really want to build a 300-400hp N/A k24.
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Lotus is right you have know the direction of the build and the end goal at the same time.

what is this going into? DD or race car? If it is not a race car, get the company's most basic block that will work of a fuel you will be able to provide consistantly for the life of it.

yes they can fit to a ep3 5spd, type S 6spd too. buying a block from these companies takes decent build planning for the head, valvetrain, in order to justify the means.
 

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I'm biased but I would go 4P. In an attempt to save $ before, I had bought a "street sweeper" short block. And my plan was to accumulate parts because a complete long block was too much of coin at the time. Anyways, I bought my head from 4p and the required parts to send it all to 4p for assy including degreeing. One day I got a call from 4p and they were like, bruh you sent us a trash short block. How? Shit was "new". It came to me dirty. 4p wouldn't trust it. I said fuck it. Build it the 4p way and lesson learned. I'd only go 4p. It's worth the extra cost to do it right the first time and that peace of mind is worth it. Least you'll know, you are getting something really nice back. 😀
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I'm biased but I would go 4P. In an attempt to save $ before, I had bought a "street sweeper" short block. And my plan was to accumulate parts because a complete long block was too much of coin at the time. Anyways, I bought my head from 4p and the required parts to send it all to 4p for assy including degreeing. One day I got a call from 4p and they were like, bruh you sent us a trash short block. How? Shit was "new". It came to me dirty. 4p wouldn't trust it. I said fuck it. Build it the 4p way and lesson learned. I'd only go 4p. It's worth the extra cost to do it right the first time and that peace of mind is worth it. Least you'll know, you are getting something really nice back. 😀 View attachment 108705
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That is a beautiful engine, I hope it makes all the power you are aiming for. The electric water pump is something in the future I may intertain. I hear so many horror stories about alternators having vibration issues, bolts breaking on kits, bolts loosening on kits. There are a couple nice kits out there. The way how they bolt to the water housing oem style is so damn reliable.

what happens if you need more tension on the belt with the two pulley set up? is there a kit out there that can adapt to your set up?

I have a K20a2 block and it does not have the bolt hole locations for the OEM oil filter heat shield that is on the K20z3 blocks and like the block you have. I am going to have to make a custom bracket for my block b/c I ordered the filter heat shield.

what is the information on the oil filter and conversion fitting? thank in advance.

incase you were wondering the replacement flange bolts
on the VTEC spool assembly are PN# (95701-06055-08).... the engine is fire brother so I was looking at ways to make it shine even more.
 

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I'm trying to find a shorter 7 rib belt because the ktuned belt doesn't fit as shown. I ordered a dayco and should get it next week. The oil filter kit is from Unit 2 Fabrication. It comes with an adapter to run the big wix filter. Thanks for the kind words. I can't wait to get this in the car. I'm waiting on a few bolts to come in 👍
 

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The oil filter kit is from Unit 2 Fabrication.
thanks. I just finished looking at there site, they have some cool parts.

By the way, is that Skunk2 Ultra manifold power coated or painted?
 

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The flange bolts! Lol, love it.

Sick build tho
i figured since the service manual says "flange bolts" when the head of the bolt has a washer style - I would too. hahaha
 
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