I have wanted to do this for such a long time. Ever since I sold my fully built integra. Not going to go into to much detail about it but lets just say it was flawless...
What I have now is a 2006 mini cooper S
Interior: black interior and black leather seats, gps, harmon kardon audio, some gauges.
Exterior: chili red with JCW front grill and front bumper: real JCW gen 1 front brakes, 16x8 rota grid v wheels
Performance: JCW injectors, Megan header, Milltek exhaust, 17% pulley, maybe jcw tune
New Engine:
2007 acura tsx motor
2.4 liter
rsx type s water pump
rsx type s oil cooler
skunk 2 style intake manifold
70mm throttle body
rsx type s VTC gear > future
rsx type s oil pump > future
rsx type s oil pan > future
engine management K-pro
Transmission: civic type r ep3 6 speed with LSD
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As you may know that no one makes mounts for this swap so I bought 2 sets of aftermarket mounts. 1st is for 06-11 civic si and 2nd is for 94-01 integra kswap. I used the trans mount from the integra kit and the motor mount from the civic kit. I do not have a a/c tig welder. Ive been using my 100$ welder this whole time and I like it. Im very used it it. But I wish I had a tig.
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The motor does not fit. A few things need to happen. Both rails need to be notched out. As well as the subframe but only on the drivers side.
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Driver axle is from integra. The integra left and right axle as exactly the same, even if you filip the inner cups. The integras outer hub fits real good onto the coopers bearing but if you use the rsx base axle the outer hubs wont fit. The ring that is on it hits the bearing seal. You can use the integra outers and swap the rsx axle becasue its longer. I will use the rsx base axle on the passenger side with the integra outer cup but leave the stock integra axle alone for the driver side.
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Motor is in but not fully attached
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Trans mount I made
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Mounts
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Not much clearance left
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Rail is welded back up. Just the mount
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Mount is welded to 1/4 inch steel plate.
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Last piece 3/16 steel
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A lot of extra metal left over. I bought 2 sheets of 3/16 plate 8x12 and 2 sheets of 1/4 8x12
I used 1 sheet of 3/16 plate and half of the other. And a little of the 1/4 inch steel plate. I have the other 1/4 left not used.
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So as it sits now with both rails in primer ready for seam sealer and paint. I have to make the 3rd mount next
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Modifying the honda throttle cable and the throttle pedal. I wanted to use the s2000 pedal but I figured out a way to use the stock mini one. Not much modification to the cable itself. Just had to drill one hole into it. The pedal box had to be shaved inside a couple places.
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This is the oil pan straight on. You can see the subframe is still lower.
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Couple of more things I need to do.
1. Passenger axle
2. All wiring including ecu
3. Exhaust manifold.
4. Clutch line
5. radiator and condenser
6. Shifter box and cables.
7. 3rd motor mount in the front
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I have completed the shifter box and the cables. I also did the clutch line and bled the system. I have completed the exhaust manifold and cat converter with flex pipe. The header needs a bit more touch up and another o2 bung welded. Enjoy.
Honda hard line into mini hard line.
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Little trimming needed, not much.
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Fits like oem. Even used the oem holes and bolts to mount it into the same spot.
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K-tuned no cut shifter box. All aluminum and it has a cover for the bottom which makes it fully enclosed. The stock heat shield fits right under it like oem mini.
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3 inch flex into 2.5 inch v band with 3 inch high flow cat. and another v band clamp
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The header needed to be bent up at the runners then down at the end. I have to grind and paint the rest of it.
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Next will be the radiator and condensor. Once that is in place I can finish the 3rd mount.
Here is some more progress. Next week will be the first attempt to start it up.
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Clearance is perfect.
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I need the first 02 sensor and the 90 bung might get plugged.
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Front Radiator clearance against the block. I wont be able to use the front mount as my 3rd motor mount. I will have to revert the 3rd mount idea to the rear.
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Intercooler is setup for the future.
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Top radiator support bracket will need to be made as well.
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Not much of an update. But good news is that the motor starts with the kpro. I have to find a good spot to go through the firewall so the new ECU can be inside the cabin. I have located all necessary wires except the fan control wire. I want to use the mini relay to start the new fan. If i cant find the wire then I will have to manually make my own relay circuit. Any suggestions where the fan control wire is on the Mini harness? Oh yea, the originally mini ecu does not need to connected at all. The key works and so does the power steering with the ignition on.
Working on the upper rad support bar.
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Almost done..
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I have a quick update for you all. The car runs!! I have finally finished the 3rd motor mount and the car is road ready. I need to figure out what to do with gauge cluster cause I can't see my RPM. In the mean time I will have my phone or ipad setup. The kpro has built in bluetooth so I can see all the parameters in live time. I will post more pictures at its current state next week.
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Fan control is complete. Very small task but a huge deal for me to find the correct wire. Whats happening is when its time for the ecu to turn on the fan it checks the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor that is on the head. In the software I can turn the fan on at whatever temp I want. From the conversion harness I have 1 FANC wire. That wire is actually a ground signal produced by the ecu. In the original mini harness I have found the FANC wire and tested it by simply touching it to a chassis ground. After various of tests I connected the Honda FANC wire to the MINI ecu plug.
This is the wire I found that kicks on 1 relay in the engine bay. Ground that and you have Fan on. Im using original connector in the engine bay spliced to my new fan.
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I believe this will be the final update for you guys. I still need to get it tuned its running a stock basemap for now. Motor is stock anyway besides intake manifold, throttle body and exhaust. So the car runs great. Their are no engine lights and it runs as it should.
As for the cluster goes, for now I use my phone. But I do want the CD7 dash from AEM or AIM Strada but its just not priority right now.
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I put the exhaust shield on with some minor trimming and bracket need to be made.
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I have also put back the bottom splash shield. No trimming fits like stock.
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I have completed my return fuel system. It wasn't too hard. The mini fuel pump-hat has an existing nipple that is capped off. I have cut the tip of it and used the evap quick disconnect fitting that is then connected into a -4an return hose all the way up to the engine bay. Under the pump-hat I also added another hose that drains to the bottom of the tank. This way no splashing will happen inside. (not pictured.)
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Factory Clips were still used. The 2 evap lines were cut out and thrown away.
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What I have now is a 2006 mini cooper S
Interior: black interior and black leather seats, gps, harmon kardon audio, some gauges.
Exterior: chili red with JCW front grill and front bumper: real JCW gen 1 front brakes, 16x8 rota grid v wheels
Performance: JCW injectors, Megan header, Milltek exhaust, 17% pulley, maybe jcw tune
New Engine:
2007 acura tsx motor
2.4 liter
rsx type s water pump
rsx type s oil cooler
skunk 2 style intake manifold
70mm throttle body
rsx type s VTC gear > future
rsx type s oil pump > future
rsx type s oil pan > future
engine management K-pro
Transmission: civic type r ep3 6 speed with LSD
As you may know that no one makes mounts for this swap so I bought 2 sets of aftermarket mounts. 1st is for 06-11 civic si and 2nd is for 94-01 integra kswap. I used the trans mount from the integra kit and the motor mount from the civic kit. I do not have a a/c tig welder. Ive been using my 100$ welder this whole time and I like it. Im very used it it. But I wish I had a tig.
The motor does not fit. A few things need to happen. Both rails need to be notched out. As well as the subframe but only on the drivers side.
Driver axle is from integra. The integra left and right axle as exactly the same, even if you filip the inner cups. The integras outer hub fits real good onto the coopers bearing but if you use the rsx base axle the outer hubs wont fit. The ring that is on it hits the bearing seal. You can use the integra outers and swap the rsx axle becasue its longer. I will use the rsx base axle on the passenger side with the integra outer cup but leave the stock integra axle alone for the driver side.
Motor is in but not fully attached
Trans mount I made
Mounts
Not much clearance left
Rail is welded back up. Just the mount
Mount is welded to 1/4 inch steel plate.
Last piece 3/16 steel
A lot of extra metal left over. I bought 2 sheets of 3/16 plate 8x12 and 2 sheets of 1/4 8x12
I used 1 sheet of 3/16 plate and half of the other. And a little of the 1/4 inch steel plate. I have the other 1/4 left not used.
So as it sits now with both rails in primer ready for seam sealer and paint. I have to make the 3rd mount next
Modifying the honda throttle cable and the throttle pedal. I wanted to use the s2000 pedal but I figured out a way to use the stock mini one. Not much modification to the cable itself. Just had to drill one hole into it. The pedal box had to be shaved inside a couple places.
This is the oil pan straight on. You can see the subframe is still lower.
Couple of more things I need to do.
1. Passenger axle
2. All wiring including ecu
3. Exhaust manifold.
4. Clutch line
5. radiator and condenser
6. Shifter box and cables.
7. 3rd motor mount in the front
I have completed the shifter box and the cables. I also did the clutch line and bled the system. I have completed the exhaust manifold and cat converter with flex pipe. The header needs a bit more touch up and another o2 bung welded. Enjoy.
Honda hard line into mini hard line.
Little trimming needed, not much.
Fits like oem. Even used the oem holes and bolts to mount it into the same spot.
K-tuned no cut shifter box. All aluminum and it has a cover for the bottom which makes it fully enclosed. The stock heat shield fits right under it like oem mini.
3 inch flex into 2.5 inch v band with 3 inch high flow cat. and another v band clamp
The header needed to be bent up at the runners then down at the end. I have to grind and paint the rest of it.
Next will be the radiator and condensor. Once that is in place I can finish the 3rd mount.
Here is some more progress. Next week will be the first attempt to start it up.
Clearance is perfect.
I need the first 02 sensor and the 90 bung might get plugged.
Front Radiator clearance against the block. I wont be able to use the front mount as my 3rd motor mount. I will have to revert the 3rd mount idea to the rear.
Intercooler is setup for the future.
Top radiator support bracket will need to be made as well.
Not much of an update. But good news is that the motor starts with the kpro. I have to find a good spot to go through the firewall so the new ECU can be inside the cabin. I have located all necessary wires except the fan control wire. I want to use the mini relay to start the new fan. If i cant find the wire then I will have to manually make my own relay circuit. Any suggestions where the fan control wire is on the Mini harness? Oh yea, the originally mini ecu does not need to connected at all. The key works and so does the power steering with the ignition on.
Working on the upper rad support bar.
Almost done..
I have a quick update for you all. The car runs!! I have finally finished the 3rd motor mount and the car is road ready. I need to figure out what to do with gauge cluster cause I can't see my RPM. In the mean time I will have my phone or ipad setup. The kpro has built in bluetooth so I can see all the parameters in live time. I will post more pictures at its current state next week.
Fan control is complete. Very small task but a huge deal for me to find the correct wire. Whats happening is when its time for the ecu to turn on the fan it checks the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor that is on the head. In the software I can turn the fan on at whatever temp I want. From the conversion harness I have 1 FANC wire. That wire is actually a ground signal produced by the ecu. In the original mini harness I have found the FANC wire and tested it by simply touching it to a chassis ground. After various of tests I connected the Honda FANC wire to the MINI ecu plug.
This is the wire I found that kicks on 1 relay in the engine bay. Ground that and you have Fan on. Im using original connector in the engine bay spliced to my new fan.
I believe this will be the final update for you guys. I still need to get it tuned its running a stock basemap for now. Motor is stock anyway besides intake manifold, throttle body and exhaust. So the car runs great. Their are no engine lights and it runs as it should.
As for the cluster goes, for now I use my phone. But I do want the CD7 dash from AEM or AIM Strada but its just not priority right now.
I put the exhaust shield on with some minor trimming and bracket need to be made.
I have also put back the bottom splash shield. No trimming fits like stock.
I have completed my return fuel system. It wasn't too hard. The mini fuel pump-hat has an existing nipple that is capped off. I have cut the tip of it and used the evap quick disconnect fitting that is then connected into a -4an return hose all the way up to the engine bay. Under the pump-hat I also added another hose that drains to the bottom of the tank. This way no splashing will happen inside. (not pictured.)
Factory Clips were still used. The 2 evap lines were cut out and thrown away.
