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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched and seached but I can't find a good listing of various connecting rod weights, more specifically OEM rods.

Down the road I'd like to turn my K20A2 into a K24/K20 frank. I'm sticking with an N/A set-up so I'd like to know how an OEM K24A1/2/3/4 rod compares, strength and weightwise, to what the aftermarket has to offer.

Are all K24 rods the same or are some, I'm guessing TSX rods, stronger than others? While I'm on the subject, is any one K24 block make a better candidate for a K24/K20 frank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Brand new, the 06 tsx rods/pistons/block will be the strongest oem k24 bottom end.
The TSX blocks have piston squirters, and the rods are stronger than the accord and crv variants.

I figured the TSX bottom end would be beefier to deal with the extra power and higher RPM. With that in mind...

Any idea what the "safe" power limit is for TSX rods and pistons? Would the c/r of a K24A2 block with a K20A2 head be something like 13:1?

Are oil squirters still necessary if moving into aftermarket forged pistons and rods when dealing with the K-series? From what I understood with the B-series engines, forged pistons didn't need the oil squirters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
K24A4 vrs K24A2
This pic really show how much stronger the A2 rods looks. Down around the crank end of the rod there's far more material and the middle part is thicker.

For now, my K20A2 is internally stock with a 3" custom intake, RBC IM, DTR headers, 2.5" exhaust and Kpro. If I upgrade to something like IPS-K2's, valvetrain, PnP and maybe over sized intake valves, ported RBC, 70mm TB , 3" exhaust with a K24 block, would forged rods and pistons be necessay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm more so just asking if the OEM internals would be able to hold up to that type of motor work. Sounds like the forged internals are the better route. I kind of figured that but didn't want to if I didn't have to. Any porting would be the last thing to be done, planning it all in steps.

So if anyone could confirm my assumption, the K24A2 crank is probably better designed for ~8-8.5k rpm's compared to K24A1/3/4? I could be wrong and all K24 cranks are the same....:up: or :down:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I wouldn't put it passed Honda to have made 2 totally different cranks even thought they have the same stroke. From what I researched years ago, the B18C5 crank's counter balances were actually heavier than the B18C1 crank for better balance at high rpm's. Even though thay had the same stroke and were completely interchangable, thay were different cranks.

With this info in hand, I'd much rather go with the TSX crank...even if it does cost a little extra.

Thanks for the info "talonxracer" and "poorg".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi joe.
Here is my set-up , 2006 tsx K24 bottom end STOCK RODS, TYPE S head (stock Valves) JE pistons 13.7:1 compr., ips K2 cams, Super-teck springs, PRC intake & 70mm throttle, R crew header, 3" exaust. 282whp @ 202trq in my 96EK.
I did over 85 passes reving it up to 8500rpm. no problems at all.
I know plenty of guys buying aftermarket parts and their engine parts are all over the track (specially rods & valves) stick to stock if you can.
my best run 11.80 @ 117mph 96 EK 2385lbs with driver (SS/AM classe)
Gary
Thats some insane power! That's got to be at the crank though right?

Are you running pump gas with that 13.7:1 c/r? I was thinking 12.5:1 at most. I can get 94 octane but only at Sunoco stations. I'm not sure if I want to limit myself to one chain in case I'm on a road trip and can't find one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
There is one thing about the 2008 CRV block that I like, the oil filter location is in the vertical position right next to the oil pan.

This good because it easily allows you to fill a new filter with oil when doing oil changes.
You're right. I didn't believe you at first but I looked it up on http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. Thats a nice feature but unless I was told otherwise, I'm worried the K20A2 oil cooler couldn't be used.

I'm favouring the K24A1 block right now because it cost less, the K20A2 oil pump will bolt right up without modification and there are no oil squirters. If I can find one for the right price, I'd rather the K24A2 crank thrown in the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
No that is at the wheels. I'm using 112 octane , i made this decision before build-up, i drive it only to the track & weekends, its double the price of gas but well worth it if you add all the advantages, keeps engine cooler & specialy cleaner, just got to check youre KM the oil never gets dirty.
I like this idea. I might have to look into where I could get that grade of gas around here and how much it costs. Can you buy 112 a tank at a time or are you only allowed to buy it by the drum?

It seems like it might be a hassle for just the extra power, but the benefit of running cleaner aswell is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
could it be bc of the stonger/thicker rods? bc both cranks are have counterweights
I'm not going to pretend to know how a crankshaft is balanced, but I don't know how much the strenth of the rods affect crank deflection. It might have been a "magic crank" but it was mentioned above that when one was brought in to be balanced, it barely needed any work.

This might be something I have to test myself and report back on it. It wouldn't be for months thought. The frank swap wouldn't be until next winter's project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I hate to thread jack but while we are on the oil change subject I am ordering a couple of these for my shop.



I found them in the sky mall catalog when I was flying to and from salt lake city for a convention.

http://www.autosportcatalog.com/auto-accessories/7l-hand-pump-oil-extractor-2.shtml
Thread jacker!

This actually looks pretty cool. the website says this is how Mercedez techs have been changing oil for years. My only concern would be whether any sludge or particles at the bottom of the pan would be sucked out.
 
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