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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I've recently bought a DC5R with no engine or transmission.

I want to build a K24 for it.

My list of requirements:
  • It needs to maintain the original K20A2 character, so same rpm range, peak power rpm, peak torque rpm, VTEC crossover etc
  • Needs to idle well and drive like OEM in regards to smoothness and refinement
  • I will maintain the stock airbox, and I want the exhaust to be reasonably quiet

Basically I want it to be like a standard car but with extra power/torque from a 2.4.

I am not chasing huge numbers, rather chasing a specific driving experience.

Any suggestions on how I can achieve the above?
I live in Australia, so the K24A3 (same as the USDM K24A2) is readily available
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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  • It needs to maintain the original K20A2 character, so same rpm range, peak power rpm, peak torque rpm, VTEC crossover etc
  • Needs to idle well and drive like OEM in regards to smoothness and refinement
  • I will maintain the stock airbox, and I want the exhaust to be reasonably quiet
If you can cut some of your redline wish, put a nice 4-2-1 header with an silent 3" or 2.5" exhaust system with CAT between it and tune it for a redline of around 7400 rpm. Should be there when the torque falls of harder. That is pretty much what you need for 200 whp FWD in your DC5R. More than stock power, more than stock torque, but with an complete stock engine bay: airbox, IM, TB. If you have no issues to pass emission test with an 200 cpsi CAT (EURO 3 level is achievable), I mean it doesn't look like stock, but will pass the emission limits regarding CO and NOx if tuned correctly at the crucial load and speed areas. Noise emission level will be something you have to look for specifically when choosing for an muffler and a resonator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that.

To clarify, those requirements are just because that's what I want from the car rather than any road authority requirements.

I am open to the possibility of building the bottom end and using a K20A head for flow.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I am open to the possibility of building the bottom end and using a K20A head for flow.
Ok, that is good and necessary to follow your guide lines. The K24A3 crank is fine for that job, the pistons and the conrods aren't that. This need to be replaced by resilient ones: forged and right designed. With that you can lift the engine speed for short term accelerations (I mean no continuous of more than 30 s above 8000 rpm). The K20A2 or the K20Z4 head are both fine, while the Z4 need more specific stuff: it's gasket, it's coolant outlet and re-piping of the coolant bypass and so on. Header and Intake manifold need to be accordingly to your guide lines. Budget for DIY plus tuning access hardware and external tuning work is about 5k Euro without swap material and effort, just engine related stuff.
 
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