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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done this yet with these motors? I come from the DSM community where 2.1's are done for more rev's, better rod ratio, and less torque than a 2.4. I think it'd be ideal for these motors.

I'm wondering if there's anything off-the-shelf piston/rod setup for this type of a set up. I'd be way interested as I'm not looking for to make more tq than I need to - not looking to break more trannys! :p
 

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Good question but I think everyone usually stays with the K20A2 for that. I like the idea though but then someone may argue that your going to have a heavier connecting rod to make this work as it will need to be longer.

Anyone try this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Only reason I ask is that DSM guys have similar bore and stroke in their 2.4 and 2.0 motors and have been doing this for a while though not very popular, and call it a long rod motor and rev them out.
 

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I know people have been using modified f22 cranks out of the s2000. In fact, I just saw one for sale in the classified section.
 

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shhhhhhh!! LoL!!

i got a setup i been messing with that uses off the shelf parts
nothing custom other than the minor mods
that any machine shop can handle for an affordable price...

i havent had the chance to R&D it in real time testing.
other than assembly and checking ALL clearances.

for what its worth to YOU,
it puts you at a 1.84 r/s ratio same as a b16b CTR
with off the shelf OEM factory parts.

PM me if you want the info...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
shhhhhhh!! LoL!!

i got a setup i been messing with that uses off the shelf parts
nothing custom other than the minor mods
that any machine shop can handle for an affordable price...

i havent had the chance to R&D it in real time testing.
other than assembly and checking ALL clearances.

for what its worth to YOU,
it puts you at a 1.84 r/s ratio same as a b16b CTR
with off the shelf OEM factory parts.

PM me if you want the info...
PM'd . :dance:
 

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I have a 82.5mm crank (shortened rsx-s) in a k24 block. RS is about right on 2:1, block is 89mm so displacement is basically 2100cc.

all motor, no turbo or thoopercharger.

I cant wait to drive it. just need a job to pay the bills and its goin in.
 

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I have a 82.5mm crank (shortened rsx-s) in a k24 block. RS is about right on 2:1, block is 89mm so displacement is basically 2100cc.

all motor, no turbo or thoopercharger.

I cant wait to drive it. just need a job to pay the bills and its goin in.
custom rods i assume??would you mind sharing a little more info on the set up as to the length of the rods piston height ,compression...where do u buy all this stuff.and what did you mean by shortened crank? i would appreciate any help and sorry if u didn't like me asking any of this....just have alot of dreams:silly: but cant seem to wrap my head around engine measurements and numbers involved
 

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It's a custom IPS setup. It was a R&D motor that IPS did in conjunction with inline pro. By shortened rsx-s crank he means a reworked 86mm rsx crank to 82.5mm. Click the link he posted for more info.

With any stroked or destroked setup, u'll need custom rods/pistons to achieve ur desired compression. If uw ant to keep costs down, it's better to go with a setup like s2k crank in k24 block as rods/pistons for that should not be too hard to come by nor too expensive.
 

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here's my two cents... worth more to others than most...
do with it as you please... but please don't come back and blame me for anything that you attempt to do!!

i'm just sharing what i have researched already...

k24 block
k20 crank
off the shelf audi rod(forged) = 6.244in
off the shelf mazda flat top piston = 28.50 compression ht

MINIMAL MACHINE WORK TO MAKE IT FIT = AFFORDABLE

all of it PHYSICALLY fits in a STOCK k24 block and head
and has no clearance problems...

i have the OEM vw and mazda parts
if anyone wants ONE to double or triple check
my measurements and clearances...

its a beautiful day when you can make OEM
off the shelf parts fit into your build
and NOT have the CUSTOM price tags attached to them.

Colin aka CJM has been helping me by pointing me
in the right direction and sharing his build.

but i don't have the budget to gain that extra difference
from a 1.84 to a 2.1 r/s ratio...

and for me, its a steep learning curve
where i just wanted to try something affordable
that wouldn't put me in debt for my build.

found the pistons and rods at my local junkyard
for under $50 TOTAL...
took em to my uncles machine shop
and they fit like a glove!!

final r/s ratio is actually 1.85
(according to my math... someone please correct me if im wrong...)
9.33:1 compression with a flat top design
2044.9cc or 125ci

i am NOT a professional or claim to be...
this forum has taught me a lot in the last few months
for my build and i am applying what i have learned.

its taken me weeks to find the right combo
and HOPEFULLY it works when i start her up soon...

thanks

p.s. this build is drag race only with about 26psi of boost...
dunno how it would function on the street...
 

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shans, thats awesome stuff man:up:

and to OP, as raza (blazed) said, it is/was a former IPS Development motor. It was not cheap. The work to the crank alone was very extensive. It is my favorite part and extremely well thoughtout and prepared.

crank thread: http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4065

pistons are very similar to these: http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2555

my rods are on far right, 7/16's rod bolts: http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3380

block is 89mm sleeved inline pro k24. oiling is peterson 3 stg dry sump.

with chamber work on the head im looking for about 12.7:1 compression. with standard k20 head and no milling, pistons are good for about 12.2:1 or so.
 

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only problem i see with this is k24 are known to have issues with sleeves at 600hp range, but either way id like to see the out come of this:up:, i know single cam guys use a vitra/ suziki piston and rod setup that oem and strong from what ive read
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just to clarify when I said off the shelf I didn't mean OEM.
 

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Just to clarify when I said off the shelf I didn't mean OEM.
no offense directed at anyone...

im going this route, because:

A= its within my budget
B= its exactly where i need to be for my HP/TQ needs

there are manufacturers that make these OEM parts
and they are also OFF THE SHELF.

so instead of paying the extra money for custom parts
you can use these instead... since they are already on shelf

and from what i have researched,
a few companies actually have these parts as clearance
items because its not a popular item.

set of rods(scat) were under $300
set of pistons(supertech) were under $200

hope this helps!!
 
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