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k24 9k redline

35K views 49 replies 11 participants last post by  Civic_jdm 
#1 ·
hey guys putting together an Frankenstein, k24a4 bottom end and k20a2 head tried the search function and looked around on google but couldn't really find the answer im looking for, my question is can I safely rev this engine to 9k. the bottom end is completely rebuilt parts are as follow

k24a4 short block
-eagle H beams
-wiseco forged pistons
-acl race bearings
-DC5 S oil pump/chain/guides (brand new)
-DC5 R oil pan
-k24a4 timing chain/guides (brand new)
-cometic head gasket
-ARP head studs
-darton flanged sleeves

k20a2 head
-Ferrea 5000 Series Valvetrain
-S10099 Dual Valve Springs
-E11066 Titanium Retainers
-SL1052 Spring Seat Locators
-K10034 Radial Groove Keepers
-Ferrea 5000 Series Special Alloy Valves
-Manganese Bronze Valve Guides
-Ferrea Viton Hi Temp Valve Seals

so based off what I presented you guys with back to my question, can this engine take the 9k redline, this engine is gonna be in a daily driver (summer toy) might see some track time, apart from that it most likely wont be beaten on regularly. any help from some knowledgeable members would be great.
 
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#9 ·
Doesnt matter about once in a while it matters about the k24 isnt meant to rev that high period. Yeah Norris might builds your engine or tunes it or whatever he does how many times each pass does it put stress on the motor? How many times are you guys tearing apart that motor checking clearances just to run at the next event?

I am by no means a drag racer but dude come on you are giving him bad advice for a his only Daily Driver. A perfect example user F-Bomb with his SVM cammed K20 rsx blew his motor on 2-3 passes revving at 9k in the 1/4mile. If the k20 is more safer to rev it to that RPM and blew what makes you think a built k24 will be more durable? Common sense
 
#11 · (Edited)
what does my norris motor have to do with anything i posted? lol. my race motor is a 102 stroke k20 block that see's 10,500 rpms.. he tries to make 100+ passes before pulling motors if you really wanna know though. if the cheap cranks arent breaking.


your thing about f bombs motor has zero bearing/merit when it comes to this topic. if a k20 fails in 2-3 passes at 9k it for damn sure wasnt because he went to 9k instead of 8500


"more better"

"k24 isnt meant to rev that high period"

says who? honda? we are talking about a modified engine top to bottom
 
#13 ·
fyi, my k20 saw 9k constantly, at least 2-3 times a day and it was a true daily driver. too many passes to count before it blew, not 2-3 passes.

the current k24 only sees 8100 because power peaks at 7500 and flatlines to there. i have no need to rev any higher.

both my engine builder and tuner, who i place a lot of trust in, do not recommend i go any higher. they both know what they're doing.
 
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#17 ·
yea these guys are beating on these engines. but how many are legitimately daily drivers? i'm not talking driven once a day, when the weather's good and once a week to the local meets.

i drive my car every single day. take it to work, drive home, and everywhere in between. i drive it when i go out of town 2+ hours and it has to survive. i'm not looking to build the fastest thing on the street, but it's pretty damn quick for what it is.
 
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#21 ·
Only difference is the price and the RRC oil pump is already notched for blocks. It's "Type R" so everybody goes crazy for it. :lolface:

Glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks he shouldn't rev to 9K:up: Drag racing and DD are two diff leagues.
 
#25 ·
not to hijack the thread, I'm doing a k24 turbo build (35r) built head not sure of the cam size thats going to be up to the shop that does the head work. I didnt have any RPM range in mind it will do what it does. But all this talk got me thinking am I using the right block for a boost build? I wanted the extra displacement in order to drive the car in the city and not rev the piss out of it. the bigger turbos dont make power till higher rpm and there is a lot of back and forth talk abought this topic k24.
 
#41 ·
all your feed back is great, I still have lots to learn but could this block with the beefed up rods safely see similar rpms as a stock
k20a2 or should those speeds just be completely avoided and stick to oem specs. as for hp.... if power is only made to a certain rpm is it even worth reving it higher?:huh:
 
#43 ·
No, built it should have no problems seeing 8500-9000 rpm's its just a lot of rev's thats all. And opions vary. But built right it shouldn't be a problem. But at that point DDing would be over kill IMO. Some people will disagree with me but I'm more into building a DD for reliability. A kfrank with bolt ons would be rowdy and you wouldn't need to dump a ton off money into it building it. As far as reving it higher if it maintains power or it doesn't drop off to much reving it can be beneficial only when you need it. Just remember rpm's magnifying problems and break engines.
 
#44 ·
good to know, I also understand that some of the folks are concerned about the engine being a DD and the need for a 9k redline is completely unnecessary and im sure other will agree as well but I my self but at the same time I could of taken a completely different approach to this build i.e purchased a complete oem short block and leaving the head stock but I liked the idea of rebuilding the engine and trying to beef it up a little and seeing what kind of power I can get out of this as well as learning as much as I can about the engine. yes it will most likely be just a daily with the every now and then weekend at the track but I also like the option of being able to push it every now and then on the road. keep the feedback regarding this subject coming the more info the better
 
#45 ·
I like the idea of building it no better way to learn about an engine then to break it down. If you upgrade the bottom end it shouldn't have a problem with 8000-8500k and the occasional 9k. You will need to upgrade the valve train as well with those rpm's. And in order to see any power up there your cams will need an upgrade. Your are basically going to have to rebuild the engine to rev that high safely. So its really just what direction you want to go in.
 
#46 ·
Ya ok well like I mentioned at the beginning of the thread the complete bottom end parts are purchased, rods bearings pistons oil pump timing chain and guides and all sorts of other oem hardware all around new seals so once this engine is put together it'll essentially be brand new, there's not a lot of parts or hardware that I'm recycling. But ya like you mentioned my next step is the valve train again seals, seats, keepers, retainers, guides and springs its been a long process with this engine and still reading and learning a lot. Trying to make the engine reliable as well as putting out some ponies when I want to
 
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