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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Just wondering if there are any differences between a K20Z4 head and a K20A head in terms of coolant/oil lines etc?
 

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Hi guys,

Just wondering if there are any differences between a K20Z4 head and a K20A head in terms of coolant/oil lines etc?
The z4 should be modeled after a k24/k20z3 with the coolant passage/rad hose outlet on the side of the head. The k20a cylinder heads have it on the front and the two use different upper rad hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does this mean it can't be done, or rather I just need different hoses etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a DC5R with no engine.
And want to build a K24 frank.

I also have a K20A head but bent valves damaged the combustion chamber.
And I have a K204Z head which is the highest flowing OEM head and I want to utilize this.

I have bought an AUDM K24A3 (K24A2 equivalent) for the bottom end which I will be rebuilding and hoping I won't need to purchase a K24Z block (unless there are notable improvements in the block over the K24A block)
 

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I have a DC5R with no engine.
And want to build a K24 frank.

I also have a K20A head but bent valves damaged the combustion chamber.
And I have a K204Z head which is the highest flowing OEM head and I want to utilize this.

I have bought an AUDM K24A3 (K24A2 equivalent) for the bottom end which I will be rebuilding and hoping I won't need to purchase a K24Z block (unless there are notable improvements in the block over the K24A block)
You already have what you need 👍 new k24 head gasket & head studs and you can directly bolt on the RSP head. The z type 24 blocks aren’t commonly used. They require an oil filter relocate and some weird stuff on the ckp sensor if I remember correctly. Aside from a different upper radiator hose the 24/20 should go into your car just like the original engine did. I would use the thermostat housing and heater pipes that match your original k20 so your heater hose routing is the same , it will bolt on the 2.4 block identically.
 

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I wish we could get those top units in the states more easily and without the extreme cost. I like oem performance. I picked up a 06 PRB cylinder head for my k24a but not quite as air efficient as the z4 that you have. I’m sure @LotusElise could tell you all sorts of cool stuff about the rsp
 

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I wish we could get those top units in the states more easily and without the extreme cost. I like oem performance. I picked up a 06 PRB cylinder head for my k24a but not quite as air efficient as the z4 that you have. I’m sure @LotusElise could tell you all sorts of cool stuff about the rsp
I second that KBuilt. I would like to score an RSP head for a decent price and why I am at it score the RRC intake manifold for a decent price. It would be interesting to see the results of what an RSP head would do with a decent set of cams, a ported RRC intake manifold, and at least use the 11.7 RRC pistons and a Mugen headgasket. That would set the compression near 12.1 with all OEM parts.
 

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I second that KBuilt. I would like to score an RSP head for a decent price and why I am at it score the RRC intake manifold for a decent price. It would be interesting to see the results of what an RSP head would do with a decent set of cams, a ported RRC intake manifold, and at least use the 11.7 RRC pistons and a Mugen headgasket. That would set the compression near 12.1 with all OEM parts.
That sounds like a hell of an engine. Sometimes I look at the 2.0 block in the garage corner and wonder what could be 😆
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I picked up a 06 PRB cylinder head for my k24a but not quite as air efficient as the z4 that you have
But the PRB port flow isn't that much different. Up to 0.4" lift it is an offset of up to 3 cfm and beyond that that little rocker get awake and lift further 12 cfm up in the air at rarely used 0.6" lift. The big difference may be seen with bigger lift cams. But if you use such one you likely modify the port as otherwise the cams makes not the real of sense you need to claim it to be efficient when your wife asks why you put further 1200 USD into cams :D! TODA cams use a 13 mm (0.511") for reason. More lift on a stock port is just used in short duration performance cams like DC, Prayoonto using it for stage 1 and 2, making the area under lift curve bigger and the torque curve peakier.

It would be interesting to see the results of what an RSP head would do with a decent set of cams, a ported RRC intake manifold, and at least use the 11.7 RRC pistons and a Mugen headgasket
If you give your PRB head, if you have one, a decent valve job, the intake port will match or exceed the RSP flow bench curve. It just have to have be decent 😉.

Sometimes I look at the 2.0 block in the garage corner and wonder what could be
I went last night through the classified ad's of EbayKleinanzeigen, looking for Honda Civic chassis ED and EC prior to 1991. There are some oldtimer's available, which have the 1.5 liter engine in it, ready for a B16 DAMPFHAMMER swap. I want an 1.6 liter with more power then Larry made it, which means to exceed the 258 [email protected] That is pretty possible, 270 hp seems doable challenge. Further investigations in a K16 DAMPFHAMMER shown even 290 hp. But everything is in that valvetrains is at the limit for short duration use. Springs need so much pressure that it is no fun for the mechanically durability. Anyway, if I look in these chassis, I hear the B16 screaming, like you when you look at the garage corner.

Doing a screamer is an emotional step, it cost a lot of money (the B16 modifications would be around 15 k€ without the basis) and the power win is, yes at the higher end plus 100 hp (same is valid for the 86x86 engine), but not +300 hp when adding a 5 k€ Turbo setup. Less power, more cost = more fun? Only if emotions and passion for the NA noise and driveability is the basis. Or you go the hard way and built your 87x99 engine and pull it to 9000 rpm like some do, more maintenance and more engine damage likely reduce the intervall's of use-ability.

I build my DAMPFHAMMER with the idea of having a high VE concept, which carry out the power at less engine speed. The DAMPFHAMMER will reach the 300 hp mark before 8000 rpm (the engine will tell us, but told us more power as the simulation have shown till 5500 rpm) and will peak around 8500 rpm. For a simple forged engine with those cam profiles more would be possible, but is not needed. A sort of efficient NA race setup. But that's not the NA screamer like a 10,500 rpm B16 engine would be.

What if they increase fuel prizes to the moon, what would I do for the last fuel sucker? No question, a NA screamer so that the next e-generation will hear the vibrations and reverberation of that sound in their e-universe. What would you guys do? And to dock back to the topic, would a K20Z4 head be necessary for it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys, good to hear I have what I what I need.

At this stage I am building up the head before moving onto the bottom end (for logistical reasons).

The bottom end will have 12.5 Mahle pistons and undecided on the conrods yet.

Intake manifold and exhaust is also undecided, but I want power to peak around 8,000rpm with good power/torque below that as I don't want to rev it beyond ~8,000rpm.
Though it is not a daily driver I still want OEM feel/longevity.

What kind of cams would people recommend for the above requirements?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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good to hear I have what I what I need.
What is that exactly?

What kind of cams would people recommend for the above requirements?
Depending on your alternation of load setup (I, H, E, CAI) DIC or stage 1 cams would made it for your specification. If you can call a IM and a H (as well as the answer for my question above) then I would see what is likely best fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A K24A3 engine (K24A2 equivalent), K20Z4 head, and some K20A parts (from a blown engine).

As far as IHE etc,
Intake manifold will likely be RBC or RRC, though I am slightly considering a Skunk2 of some sort. I prefer OEM but if it is cheaper to get an aftermarket manifold that outperforms an OEM one then I will likely go with that.
For headers, maybe PLM? Just as they are easy to come by, not too expensive and I read reasonable quality.
For exhaust, probably a K-Tuned oval 3".

I have cams from the blown JDM K20A EP3 motor so I may start off with those and upgrade later.
But ideally I'd have some cams that VTEC engagement is ~5,500rpm and peak power ~8,000rpm.
Just to keep the "Type R spirit"


What is that exactly?

Depending on your alternation of load setup (I, H, E, CAI) DIC or stage 1 cams would made it for your specification. If you can call a IM and a H (as well as the answer for my question above) then I would see what is likely best fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I should add, as far as CAI is concerned, I was planning on running the stock airbox.
is this a bad idea?
I do not want that VTEC sound nor do I want the engine bay to look anything but standard.

But if this will cause a significant performance limitation then I will need to re-examine this approach
 

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Cartel 3.2 cams w/ported RBC or skunk ultra street +74mm or larger tb seems to be the current K24 cookie cutter build with your compression goals.

I was on a RSP head hunt some months back but gave up and just decided that imma do a poorman's FD2 K20A build with my existing K20Z1 engine; swapping in some Nippon Racing 11.7 RRC pistons and getting some light porting work done on my PRB head with a nice valve job and possibly go 1mm larger valves either on the exhaust side or both sides. Cam wise I'd be running cartel 2.2 or IPSk2's (I have both to try out even tho I feel both are similar in specs).
 

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Cartel 3.2 cams w/ported RBC or skunk ultra street +74mm or larger tb seems to be the current K24 cookie cutter build with your compression goals.

I was on a RSP head hunt some months back but gave up and just decided that imma do a poorman's FD2 K20A build with my existing K20Z1 engine; swapping in some Nippon Racing 11.7 RRC pistons and getting some light porting work done on my PRB head with a nice valve job and possibly go 1mm larger valves either on the exhaust side or both sides. Cam wise I'd be running cartel 2.2 or IPSk2's (I have both to try out even tho I feel both are similar in specs).
How long have you been holding onto those IPS cams lol. I’ve read a lot of the good ol days threads. Glad to see you are still around 👍
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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is this a bad idea?...But if this will cause a significant performance limitation then I will need to re-examine this approach
Juup, bad idea. The 87x99 engine need a lot of air. The stock air box is a huge restriction. What a buddy of mine did, he kept the stock air box, but modified it. He turned it into a cold air housing, cutted of the underside and fitted a cold intake air filter with an integrated bellmouth in it. Of course it got louder, but only if power is demanded :D.
 
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