Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner

41 - 60 of 71 Posts

·
K24 USDM EG
Joined
·
26,856 Posts
good lord holy write up.

ill be using your info on the cluster swap. i had to go dig for wiring diagrams when i did the ek.

i appreciate the time you have taken to write up all this so far. any pics of the actual car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
wow thanks alot for the feedback guys! All the comments finally making me feel like I'm not doing all this for nothing.

Uh yeah I can post some pictures of the car. Its in winter mode now and didn't really do anything to the body yet which has some pieces I'm not a fan of left over from pervious owners (fiberglass rear bumper, needs some wheels spacers, etc), but I'll get some up shortly here.

Its an odd car. Its an RS body but someone put GSR doors on it, so I ended up wiring in the power mirrors myself too since the harness weren't in the body of the car, but they were in the doors. And it has power mirrors so I figured "what the hell, thats get these things working". It has a bunch of other odd little things to it too.

I actually pulled all the interior out this weekend to fix some leaks that it had in it, found that I had some coolant inside the car that should have been outside of it. So had to do a heater core and someone in the past used wrong size hoses for it...ah its been a bit of a mess but I'm a stickler for perfection.



While it was all apart I did put in a mint dash and JDM DB6 seats my buddy had laying around so the interior is finally starting to look good for me. Also pulled out a bunch of the random wiring someone in the past had put in and got the clock working and all the other little stuff that wasn't working in it before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Just as a sneak peak I also finally picked up a shift knob at a reasonable price that I liked. Little back story:

Apparently some shop that must be JDM as fawk (so JDM in fact that it got cracked by the tsunami a couple months back) had a bunch of Mugen shift knobs. Unfortunately the boxes got mostly destroyed with the waves overwhelming the city (and boats, dolphins, n' sh*t). So I come across this joint online unloading these shift knobs at a reasonable price. It seemed like a hell of a story and after reading it I'm like :raisins:. I didn't believe it figuring it was a story behind another knock of knob company out there. But for the price difference I figured I'd roll the dice. Shift knob comes in and weights A TON and looks great. So I figure its either real, or real enough for me.

The shift knob has since become known in my area as the "Fukushima Shift Knob" and glows in the dark sometimes due to the radiation still on it from the power plant meltdown.

But anyways, heres a picture of the Fukushima Shift Knob and the Hybrid Racing z3 Bolt In Shifter. Makes for an absolutely stunning comination in person in my opinion. Hybrid Racing = Top Knotch in my book!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
I like what your doing. The biggest problem withu swaps is that everyone does them differently. I like how you taking a step by step and why your doing it. I especially like how you've shown every one how to depin connectors, and that you can't just swap wire around for the speed sensor. Good stuff, faint wait for the end product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
awesome writeup, i have a request...if you could possibly go over the radiator fan wiring, that would be great. you seem to have a clear way of explaining and the othe write-ups ive seen arent as detailed as you would probably explain it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Radiator Cooling Fan Wiring

This section is in direct response to FlackoNAEG's question above. I appreciate it because I didn't really look into it yet up until this point so keep the questions/suggestions coming in hopes we cover stuff that I may not be thinking about.

Anyways, there are two very simple options to this one:
WITH Kpro
If you plan on using K-pro you have no worries. I'll post in an exert from K-Tuned.com and their swap harness directions:
"If you are using KPro, hooking up a fan switch is optional. The KPro software (Protection section) can be set up to control the cooling fan through the oem ECT sensor already wired into the factory K-series engine harness."
So let me lay this out to you. KPro will be getting its temp reading from the Red/White wire located at ECU pin "B8". As long as you still have that in your harness and going to you ECT sensor in the side of your head as noted in pictures a page or two back, then you can use Kpro to send out the signal to your thermo fan relay to turn on.
This signal is sent OUT from the ECU on the Green wire located at ECU pin "B6". This wire goes to Pin 7 of the 20 Pin "C302" plug of your swap harness. This in turn carries the output to the thermo fan relay, switching it on at the temp determined in KPro.
Easy right? No wire splicing at all, simply activating through software in Kpro.

WITHOUT Kpro
Again we'll start with an exert from K-Tuned's Swap Harness directions:
"For installs without KPro the fan switch must be wired up to control the cooling fan. To do this, you will need to reuse the fan switch from your B/D series engine or purchase a new one from your local Honda dealer or from us, K-Tuned. You will also need to cut off the 2 pin connector plug from your old B/D series harness. There are 2 wires on the plug for this sensor, signal (solid green) and ground (black).

To wire up the fan, connect the signal (green) wire from the fan switch plug to the yellow / blue wire found on the driver side plug of the K-Tuned harness. To complete the circuit run a new ground (black) wire somewhere to the chassis."


So heres a bigger break down....Including pictures which all of us love.
Below is the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for my 94 integra:


And now the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for a 02-04 RSX type S in which I've removed the A/C portion just to clean it up and make it easier to compare and constrast:


As you can see now, the systems are near identical with the exception of a few wire colors and the higher amp demand on the RSX. You would simply need to pull ur ECT switch out of your thermostat housing on your B series and wire it to pin 7 of the C302 20 pin connector on the swap harness. This will then trigger the cooling fan relay as your factory switch would.

So for further breakdown:
1) Take the harness, clip, and sensor out of your B18
2) Find one of the nermous swap companies fittings or radiators with a provision for factory ECT switches and purchase whichever way you prefer.
3) Wire the Green wire from the sensor to the USUALLY Green wire at pin 7 of the 20 pin connector on the VEHICLE SIDE. Make sure not to run it to the side running back out to the Engine Harness.
4) Run the Black wire from the sensor to a good ground.

It's that easy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
good lord holy write up.

ill be using your info on the cluster swap. i had to go dig for wiring diagrams when i did the ek.

i appreciate the time you have taken to write up all this so far. any pics of the actual car?
Damn man just realized this was you! I was going through ur build thread the other day and I love the bay. So clean! Wish I could do body work like that or knew someone that would do it cheap. You keep up the bad ass build too man!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Radiator Cooling Fan Wiring

This section is in direct response to FlackoNAEG's question above. I appreciate it because I didn't really look into it yet up until this point so keep the questions/suggestions coming in hopes we cover stuff that I may not be thinking about.

Anyways, there are two very simple options to this one:
WITH Kpro
If you plan on using K-pro you have no worries. I'll post in an exert from K-Tuned.com and their swap harness directions:
"If you are using KPro, hooking up a fan switch is optional. The KPro software (Protection section) can be set up to control the cooling fan through the oem ECT sensor already wired into the factory K-series engine harness."
So let me lay this out to you. KPro will be getting its temp reading from the Red/White wire located at ECU pin "B8". As long as you still have that in your harness and going to you ECT sensor in the side of your head as noted in pictures a page or two back, then you can use Kpro to send out the signal to your thermo fan relay to turn on.
This signal is sent OUT from the ECU on the Green wire located at ECU pin "B6". This wire goes to Pin 7 of the 20 Pin "C302" plug of your swap harness. This in turn carries the output to the thermo fan relay, switching it on at the temp determined in KPro.
Easy right? No wire splicing at all, simply activating through software in Kpro.

WITHOUT Kpro
Again we'll start with an exert from K-Tuned's Swap Harness directions:
"For installs without KPro the fan switch must be wired up to control the cooling fan. To do this, you will need to reuse the fan switch from your B/D series engine or purchase a new one from your local Honda dealer or from us, K-Tuned. You will also need to cut off the 2 pin connector plug from your old B/D series harness. There are 2 wires on the plug for this sensor, signal (solid green) and ground (black).

To wire up the fan, connect the signal (green) wire from the fan switch plug to the yellow / blue wire found on the driver side plug of the K-Tuned harness. To complete the circuit run a new ground (black) wire somewhere to the chassis."


So heres a bigger break down....Including pictures which all of us love.
Below is the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for my 94 integra:


And now the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for a 02-04 RSX type S in which I've removed the A/C portion just to clean it up and make it easier to compare and constrast:


As you can see now, the systems are near identical with the exception of a few wire colors and the higher amp demand on the RSX. You would simply need to pull ur ECT switch out of your thermostat housing on your B series and wire it to pin 7 of the C302 20 pin connector on the swap harness. This will then trigger the cooling fan relay as your factory switch would.

So for further breakdown:
1) Take the harness, clip, and sensor out of your B18
2) Find one of the nermous swap companies fittings or radiators with a provision for factory ECT switches and purchase whichever way you prefer.
3) Wire the Green wire from the sensor to the USUALLY Green wire at pin 7 of the 20 pin connector on the VEHICLE SIDE. Make sure not to run it to the side running back out to the Engine Harness.
4) Run the Black wire from the sensor to a good ground.

It's that easy!
thanks I appreciate it, gave me a much clearer view on how to get this done. I'll bring up any other common issue that I run into. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Bring it on. Like I said I'm sure there are more things I haven't gotten to yet. So please ask away.

For an update, I began pinning out the swap harness for future troubleshooting purposes. Figure this can help us out if we ever lose signal to the cluster or anything else in the car. It will help us undertand the entire path of each circuit hopefully.

In the midst of doing so I found some odd discrepancies with my swap harness I bought off of here and what I figured it should be through the ECU pinout. After double checking with David at Hybrid Racing we decided it would probably be safest to just get me a new harness.

So that is my next update I have in the pipeline, but wanted to give that quick shout out to David and Hybrid Racing for their continued amazing customer support and support of this forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Awesome technical details are being posted in this build.
Well done. Keep it coming...
Thanks Mike. I have a couple of your products scoped out to put on this build too believe me. I'll be in touch!

Unfortunately (or forunately) something came up and I decided to go single big turbo on my RB26 so this probably won't get finished until mid summer now instead of late spring like I had anticipated. Just letting everyone know this may ease up for a couple months as far as buying stuff for it. But wiring an the cheap stuff will still be coming up here and there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Is there another option instead of the hr shifter?
A couple more for the z3 transmission:
The old school way which I took from another thread stated by PapiTuyo326:
Alright.

"In order to get it working, you need to use the shift cable bracket and shifter arm from either an ep3 or an rsx or whatever combination of K-series parts you have had working in your chassis. I used the Ep stuff since I have an Ep.

1. Switch the Shifter Arm

a. If your replacement shifter arm is from a 6 speed trans then you are good to go, just swap it with the FG piece.

b. If your replacement shifter arm is from a 5 speed trans (like the Ep, element, etc) then you need to switch the parts of the shifter arm. There is a 12mm Hex bolt keeping the assembly (parts 4,5,6 and 14,15 on THIS picture) on the 5 speed shifter. Remove the assembly. You will then need to get the parts from your FG shifter arm off (parts 4,5,6,7 and 20,21 on THIS picture). The Bolt is the same, but be careful when taking it off, as there is a spring in the 6 speed mechanism. Put it on your 5 speed shifter and bam, instant 6 speed shift goodness.

2. Now that that is fixed, you need to deal with the fact that only two bolts can be used to hold the shift arm assembly down. I am going to buy a Tap set today and get it done. The two bottom bolts actually do a good job at holding it on. You could probably get away with hondabonding the crap out of it, but might as well Tap the remaining holes."
K-tuned also has a pretty nice and cheaper setup HERE. The only real reason why I went a little extra for the Hybrid one was so I didn't have to cut out my tunnel. My cars in pretty good condition for being a 94 so I'm trying to do as little cutting as possible. But if I wasn't worried about it the K-Tuned would be my pick I'm sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Well I had a good last couple days. Got my new swap harness from [email protected] Racing a couple days ago. I had aquired an old "all blue wire" swap harness off of here when I first started the project and after consulting him found that some of the pins were off. So I decided to play it safe and get a new harness from him which came in yesterday and BOY am I glad I did that. If you're ever wondering if its worth the extra 60-100 bucks to get a new harness instead of one of the old all blues it TOTALLY is. The color coding is beautiful and will absolutely help with troubleshooting in the future if you ever need to.

Then I come home today and see this lovely...The reason why like I said a few post ago I was going to have to take it easy on this for a couple weeks:




Little upgrade from my twin GT2860R's on my RB26 swapped S13 to one of the relatively new Borg Warner EFR 8374. Finally stepping my game up!:new_slayer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
subd great info i am currently doing a k20z3/k24a1 turbo in my ek hatch. I gor a stripped head but didnt know about the sensors and stuff. Thanks for this man its helping out a lot.:dance::dance::dance:
 
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Top