Damn man just realized this was you! I was going through ur build thread the other day and I love the bay. So clean! Wish I could do body work like that or knew someone that would do it cheap. You keep up the bad ass build too man!good lord holy write up.
ill be using your info on the cluster swap. i had to go dig for wiring diagrams when i did the ek.
i appreciate the time you have taken to write up all this so far. any pics of the actual car?
thanks I appreciate it, gave me a much clearer view on how to get this done. I'll bring up any other common issue that I run into. lolRadiator Cooling Fan Wiring
This section is in direct response to FlackoNAEG's question above. I appreciate it because I didn't really look into it yet up until this point so keep the questions/suggestions coming in hopes we cover stuff that I may not be thinking about.
Anyways, there are two very simple options to this one:
If you plan on using K-pro you have no worries. I'll post in an exert from K-Tuned.com and their swap harness directions:
"If you are using KPro, hooking up a fan switch is optional. The KPro software (Protection section) can be set up to control the cooling fan through the oem ECT sensor already wired into the factory K-series engine harness."
So let me lay this out to you. KPro will be getting its temp reading from the Red/White wire located at ECU pin "B8". As long as you still have that in your harness and going to you ECT sensor in the side of your head as noted in pictures a page or two back, then you can use Kpro to send out the signal to your thermo fan relay to turn on.
This signal is sent OUT from the ECU on the Green wire located at ECU pin "B6". This wire goes to Pin 7 of the 20 Pin "C302" plug of your swap harness. This in turn carries the output to the thermo fan relay, switching it on at the temp determined in KPro.
Easy right? No wire splicing at all, simply activating through software in Kpro.
Again we'll start with an exert from K-Tuned's Swap Harness directions:
"For installs without KPro the fan switch must be wired up to control the cooling fan. To do this, you will need to reuse the fan switch from your B/D series engine or purchase a new one from your local Honda dealer or from us, K-Tuned. You will also need to cut off the 2 pin connector plug from your old B/D series harness. There are 2 wires on the plug for this sensor, signal (solid green) and ground (black).
To wire up the fan, connect the signal (green) wire from the fan switch plug to the yellow / blue wire found on the driver side plug of the K-Tuned harness. To complete the circuit run a new ground (black) wire somewhere to the chassis."
So heres a bigger break down....Including pictures which all of us love.
Below is the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for my 94 integra:
And now the radiator cooling fan circuit diagram for a 02-04 RSX type S in which I've removed the A/C portion just to clean it up and make it easier to compare and constrast:
As you can see now, the systems are near identical with the exception of a few wire colors and the higher amp demand on the RSX. You would simply need to pull ur ECT switch out of your thermostat housing on your B series and wire it to pin 7 of the C302 20 pin connector on the swap harness. This will then trigger the cooling fan relay as your factory switch would.
So for further breakdown:
1) Take the harness, clip, and sensor out of your B18
2) Find one of the nermous swap companies fittings or radiators with a provision for factory ECT switches and purchase whichever way you prefer.
3) Wire the Green wire from the sensor to the USUALLY Green wire at pin 7 of the 20 pin connector on the VEHICLE SIDE. Make sure not to run it to the side running back out to the Engine Harness.
4) Run the Black wire from the sensor to a good ground.
It's that easy!
Thanks Mike. I have a couple of your products scoped out to put on this build too believe me. I'll be in touch!Awesome technical details are being posted in this build.
Well done. Keep it coming...
A couple more for the z3 transmission:Is there another option instead of the hr shifter?
K-tuned also has a pretty nice and cheaper setup HERE. The only real reason why I went a little extra for the Hybrid one was so I didn't have to cut out my tunnel. My cars in pretty good condition for being a 94 so I'm trying to do as little cutting as possible. But if I wasn't worried about it the K-Tuned would be my pick I'm sure."In order to get it working, you need to use the shift cable bracket and shifter arm from either an ep3 or an rsx or whatever combination of K-series parts you have had working in your chassis. I used the Ep stuff since I have an Ep.
1. Switch the Shifter Arm
a. If your replacement shifter arm is from a 6 speed trans then you are good to go, just swap it with the FG piece.
b. If your replacement shifter arm is from a 5 speed trans (like the Ep, element, etc) then you need to switch the parts of the shifter arm. There is a 12mm Hex bolt keeping the assembly (parts 4,5,6 and 14,15 on THIS picture) on the 5 speed shifter. Remove the assembly. You will then need to get the parts from your FG shifter arm off (parts 4,5,6,7 and 20,21 on THIS picture). The Bolt is the same, but be careful when taking it off, as there is a spring in the 6 speed mechanism. Put it on your 5 speed shifter and bam, instant 6 speed shift goodness.
2. Now that that is fixed, you need to deal with the fact that only two bolts can be used to hold the shift arm assembly down. I am going to buy a Tap set today and get it done. The two bottom bolts actually do a good job at holding it on. You could probably get away with hondabonding the crap out of it, but might as well Tap the remaining holes."