i have been reading about the k20a3 being so bad and the a2 is sooo better. dont think that im hateing i think we have forgot'n that 15 year or so honda was the underdog, how kids had to figure out way to improve their civic against muscle car. now it's easy to get an a2 and hook it up but for that ill get a mustang and bottle it up. all im askin is for all those that have a a3 and is hookin it up or any info to make it better put it here, it will make it easier for the rest of us thank post any info about building a3 either n/a or turbo
k20a3
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the A3 head is the only weak spot on that motor. and the head isn't as bad as most people think.
A set of cams on that motor will go a long way.
the K24a head flows better than the A3 head, same one lobe non vtec exhaust side and 2 lobe not real vtec intake side.
So an option would be cams in the less flowing a3 head or k24 head with cams.
locking the intake side in "vtec" is also an option.
im building a straight k24 vtec "killer" turbo engine for my car.
A set of cams on that motor will go a long way.
the K24a head flows better than the A3 head, same one lobe non vtec exhaust side and 2 lobe not real vtec intake side.
So an option would be cams in the less flowing a3 head or k24 head with cams.
locking the intake side in "vtec" is also an option.
im building a straight k24 vtec "killer" turbo engine for my car.
ok here is the deal i did some reseach and found the (i think the best) way to
fully built a k20a3. Reason why i choose the a3 beside what i aready posted is, it's cheaper and plenty, alot of peole don't like the a3 but one man garbage is another mans treasure lol
k20a2
1. crank
2. forged rod and piston
now if you'r going boost get the piston powdered coated
n/a you'll need to drill a hole on the block for oil cooler of buy aftermarket one
3. a k24a2 head verry importent for boost
or aftermarket camshaft for n/a
4. sleeve the block
5. a trusted shop
well i think i coverd the basics of things
fully built a k20a3. Reason why i choose the a3 beside what i aready posted is, it's cheaper and plenty, alot of peole don't like the a3 but one man garbage is another mans treasure lol
k20a2
1. crank
2. forged rod and piston
now if you'r going boost get the piston powdered coated
n/a you'll need to drill a hole on the block for oil cooler of buy aftermarket one
3. a k24a2 head verry importent for boost
or aftermarket camshaft for n/a
4. sleeve the block
5. a trusted shop
well i think i coverd the basics of things
i hate to be an ass, but you should def have someone do all of this for you..
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That sums it up.
can you show the link on were you seen this
"now if you'r going boost get the piston powdered coated "
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118 Posts
haha I always wanted to powder coat my pistons so my cylinder walls had something pretty to look at!!
Pistons can be coated with three different systems. They are Dry Film Lubricants, Thermal Barriers and Oil Shedding Coatings. These systems can be beneficial on all pistons whether 4 stroke, 2 stroke, gas, alcohol, diesel, reciprocal or rotary. Maybe you was meaning the dry film process?
The a3 block is the same as the a2 minus the fact that it doesnt contain the oil cooler, squiters.
The head is NOT the week part of the motor its the rods. Most people that have 350-400 HP on stock a3 internals have had a rod thrown.
Any by saying you going with a2 crank, rods and pistons then your arent building an a3 you are building an a2 motor.
everything has been covered before, just research it....
Pistons can be coated with three different systems. They are Dry Film Lubricants, Thermal Barriers and Oil Shedding Coatings. These systems can be beneficial on all pistons whether 4 stroke, 2 stroke, gas, alcohol, diesel, reciprocal or rotary. Maybe you was meaning the dry film process?
The a3 block is the same as the a2 minus the fact that it doesnt contain the oil cooler, squiters.
The head is NOT the week part of the motor its the rods. Most people that have 350-400 HP on stock a3 internals have had a rod thrown.
Any by saying you going with a2 crank, rods and pistons then your arent building an a3 you are building an a2 motor.
everything has been covered before, just research it....
my point is i have yet to find an aftermarket crank for the a3 so the next best thing is using an a2
wich may cost about 60$ to 120$ from a blown motor. Now the a3 does have the squart hole on it but not in use,
you only need the squart for cooling the stock piston on the a/a2 it's much cheaper to just but a used crank then get a a2 bottom end (i think)
and here is the info from here (k20a.org) that i searched about this
www.k20a.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-6273.html
www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9635
wich may cost about 60$ to 120$ from a blown motor. Now the a3 does have the squart hole on it but not in use,
you only need the squart for cooling the stock piston on the a/a2 it's much cheaper to just but a used crank then get a a2 bottom end (i think)
and here is the info from here (k20a.org) that i searched about this
www.k20a.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-6273.html
www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9635
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2,125 Posts
"Now the a3 does have the squart hole on it but not in use"
I have only had 5-6 a3's apart and have never seen the holes ,it is cast were they go but not drilled and taped. You are right if you change the pistons you wont need them anyway, I plug them myself.
I have only had 5-6 a3's apart and have never seen the holes ,it is cast were they go but not drilled and taped. You are right if you change the pistons you wont need them anyway, I plug them myself.
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