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Reliability issues w/ the A3 handling boost = 7-7.5psi max,
If you want a car that really pulls and reliable, go TSX JRSC swap low boost
I blew a rod pin on the A3 at 9.4psi with less than 500 miles shifting at 7400
and it was dynopack professionally tuned w/ kpro, 650cc, and 202whp/179wtq. Don't get me wrong the A3 can handle some boost, but after 32k of N/A abuse it didn't stand a chance blown.
Make sure you know where your going to end up with this thing, so you don't have to lose money selling a 2.25" exhaust for a 3", 2.5" CAI for a 3", etc..... :up:
 

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1fastep3 said:
i would also like to say that from all of the turbo hondas i have seen every on of them has blown up b/c of bad tuning.the only 2 ways you can explain a blown up boosted motor is detonation from running too lean which is usually caused by bad tuning or the motor having too much pressure in the cylinder head which will cause the cylinder walls to expand and crack which is why people suggest sleeving the motor but the a3 has lower compression than the a2 so i dont know why people would suggest boosting it before an a3
I had an A3 and it wasn't enough motor for me. Needed something built better
and blowing a rod bearing has nothing to do with tuning. My tuner was trained at Hondata and highly rep'd.
Not all a3 motors were made equal and some suck. I do know they are not very reliable over 7psi, then again your not going to get a strong powerband at 7psi either.
 

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7psi ....8psi....not much difference

Like the man said it comes down to tuning

I say it comes down to tuning, driver, and how hard the motor was driven before boost....

I drove my A3 hard before boost, then drove it hard on 9psi (SC) and a rod pin broke after 600 miles...

Rev Hard's A3 probly doesn't get driven much and is for promotional purposes only. I f you are boosting A daily driven A3 stay at 7 psi to be on the safe side, unless you really need a good excuse to swap
 
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