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Discussion Starter #1
getting ready to finish my block and wanting to know where to pick up 1/2'' headstuds for my k20. Are they really worth the extra work to have them done. Anyone with experience on them with either k's or b's?
 

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Why? Unless you are planning on copious amounts of boost(NASA levels) there is absolutely no need to use more than the stock size ARP head studs.
 

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Why? Unless you are planning on copious amounts of boost(NASA levels) there is absolutely no need to use more than the stock size ARP head studs.
Why is that the most common response? What's the most boost, timing, rpm you've ever run? What's the biggest compressor, nitrous shot, bore you've run? Is that on a K-series?

I would gladly pay a premium price for somebody with experience to setup 1/2" and/or L19 studs for me. Instead, I've gotten responses such as:

"So and so makes over 1000 hp with regular studs, so there's no way you need them"

"We make over 800 on regular studs so there's no need for 1/2" studs"

I'm sure I can make some adjustments elsewhere to keep MY head from lifting and stretching the dogpoint head studs I've been using. BUT, I'd still like some. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
feel the same way. I mean why not spend a little extra money/time on it if it may help out just a little bit. Some peoples ran them some haven't but I'd really like to consider doing them if it will be worth it.

Anyone know where to pick up a set of 1/2'' ones?
 

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You do realize the 1/2" studs in question require the block and possibly the head to be machined with new inserts right? The stanard GE and ARP type studs with stock thread pitch are not 1/2" studs. Maybe 1/2" 12pt nuts. The 1/2" studs use a 9/16" nut I think...Maybe you need to research the products you sell to be more informative.
 

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Pepsi Soprano
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You do realize the 1/2" studs in question require the block and possibly the head to be machined with new inserts right? The stanard GE and ARP type studs with stock thread pitch are not 1/2" studs. Maybe 1/2" 12pt nuts. The 1/2" studs use a 9/16" nut I think...Maybe you need to research the products you sell to be more informative.
Maybe I do ,I thought he meant the ge or arp with the stock thread pitch..
you seem a little rantish today .. is everything ok?
 

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Can we keep the peace fellas
 

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Discussion Starter #12
anyone have a link where I can pick up these studs?
 

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You will have to contact ARP and see what they have in stock that would match for length, and then take the block, head and head gasket to have them relieved for the larger stud and then drill and tap the block.

Can it be done, sure it can, but again why?

The Cost alone at the machine shop, could be spent far wiser on other components.

And yes I do own a machine shop and know what I am talking about.
 

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Pepsi Soprano
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You will have to contact ARP and see what they have in stock that would match for length, and then take the block, head and head gasket to have them relieved for the larger stud and then drill and tap the block.

Can it be done, sure it can, but again why?

The Cost alone at the machine shop, could be spent far wiser on other components.

And yes I do own a machine shop and know what I am talking about.
where r u located?I hate driving down to Olsen engines to bore me blocks..
I'm in Monroe. how far are you?
 

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getting ready to finish my block and wanting to know where to pick up 1/2'' headstuds for my k20. Are they really worth the extra work to have them done. Anyone with experience on them with either k's or b's?
if you want to figure out if 1/2 studs are really worth the trouble then you can do a simple mechanical analysis to compare 1/2 and the standard. find the expected combustion chamber pressure your motor will experience and the rest is easy. material properties can be found from the manufacturer. there is probably a factor of safety also so be sure to incorporate that. if the force does not stud does not exceed the tensile strength of the stud then you are good to go. if you want to go even further you can trying calculating a size that never reaches its endurance limit. good luck.
 

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Talking to an engine builder who used to run a honda program and switched to the GM four-banger, the 1/2 stud conversion is considered part of the big boost build for motors pushing toward 1,000 hp.
From what he said, it is about the added clamp force (higher ft lbs tourqe allowed with the bigger studs) so it doesn't sound like it is a tensile strength issue.
Fewer blown head gaskets is the goal, particularly as racers crank up the boost to get the number they need?
As for a street motor or milder drag car, could be considered overbuilding, for sure.
I've paid $30 per hole to have a block drilled out, tapped and Keencerts put in. Another added advantage is the threads in the block are stronger than the aluminum threads from the factory.

Keencerts and a couple of other solutions out there are the way high strength is achieved in industry applications when using aluminum, including at NASA. These are not to be confused with Helicoils.
 

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The K series head has a thin deck, and increasing the torque can distort the head to the extent it blows gaskets easier. This is one reason we're making the deck .080" thicker (internally) on our aftermarket head.
You can stiffen stock heads by posting them, ie drilling and tapping the water jacket plugs (up top) and installing studs that bottom out in the area between the combustion chambers. This will halp prevent the sealing surfaces betweeen the chambers from raising up under extreme pressure.
Larger diameter head studs shouldn't be torqued to a higher level than stock diameter studs (to prevent the distortion I mentioned above). The main advantage you gain with the larger studs is that they don't stretch as easily as their smaller diameter counterparts, so they should be used on any combination that's making more than 800HP.

www.theoldone.com
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sounds good. I will be making over 800 for sure but not sure what boost levels we will make that at yet. I knew you wouldn't torque them down more I was just hoping like you said the 1/2'' studs would help since they would be stronger than the smaller counterparts. sounds like I'll be getting a hold of the machine shop monday to see about doing it.
 

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The engine builder I talked to did not tell me what they torque the larger studs to compared to the smaller, just that it allows more force.

I'm not an engineer, but it stands to reason that the larger studs would have to be torqued to a higher degree, otherwised you don't stetch-load the studs to create the clamping force spring effect. In fact, I imagine torquing larger studs to the same ft lbs as smaller studs might create less spring clamp.

Perhaps someone here has some thoughts, but generally larger bolts/studs spec for more torque, as with rod bolts. That doesn't mean the K castings are up to it, of course. If that's the case, it would seem the mod makes no sense at all on the K series.
 
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