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Discussion Starter #41
Did a bit of cleaning and dropped the oil pan AGAIN just because I was paranoid about there possibly being any more metal bearings etc in the engine (found nothing but I get paranoid easily). Going to grab the rest of the parts to complete the build and get it ready to drop in the car tomorrow. Might drop it in the car this weekend just to hear it run.
Its funny now when I try and turn it over with my big breaker bar it gives me a challenge its so strong. Such a big difference between the two machine shops valve seating job.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Valves adjusted, water pump, intake, etc installed. Everything sealed up and ready to go into the car. Still a few things I want to do to the car before dropping it back in (paint, de-clutter wires etc). Cant wait to start it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Looks like the engine will be going back in the car this weekend. Everything is prepped. Engine bay cleaned, subframe pained, everything washed.Clutch aligned and tranny installed. Literally just need to lift it in and bolt/button it up. I'd say 2.5 hours work and it should be running.
Wish me luck
 

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Luck! You must be so psyched.

FWIW I just installed an invidia header and 2.5" exhaust onto the K20r in my EP3 and it rips so hard now... Just in time for the warm weather driving season!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Engine is back in. Runs amazing. I only let it idle long enough to bleed to coolant system as I didn't get a chance to put the final coat on the sub frame yet so the engine is only held in by two mounts and the axles aren't installed.
Very happy with how good its running - now I can sleep tonight. :D No rush to get the sub frame in as it looks like winter is going to come back for a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #46

Wheels on - car mobile.
Only problem I am having is the 02 sensor. It has a single primary sensor before the cat. I beleive it has a special k-pro harness but I ma be wrong. Anyways when I pulled the engine in the fall I forgot to unplug the sensor and the harness side wires ripped out from the connector. I cannot seem to find the correct color diagram online. Also it seems to want to idle around 2k RPM.. could this be from the sensor or should I be cleaning my IACV again?
 

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The primary sensor on the EM2 is part of the stock engine harness. When you K swap you have to add a connector in for the sensor. I bought a conversion harness when doing my swap which had the connector built in, not sure if yours is the same. Snap a picture and I can see if mine is similar.

Usually a bouncing idle is caused by the IACV, high idle is usually an vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
The primary sensor on the EM2 is part of the stock engine harness. When you K swap you have to add a connector in for the sensor. I bought a conversion harness when doing my swap which had the connector built in, not sure if yours is the same. Snap a picture and I can see if mine is similar.

Usually a bouncing idle is caused by the IACV, high idle is usually an vacuum leak.
The high idle seems to have went away after driving it. Maybe it just needed some gas/air flow.
The 02 sensor wire harness is not factory. It has a yellow, green, red, and white wire. It is my understanding white and green are signal wires and yellow and red are heater wires. I checked fuses/relay. Pulled up Honda schematics and the wire colors do not match (like I said Im a tech at Honda). I checked voltage on the yellow and red wires and on one I have 12.2V and the other has 14.2V (alternator voltage).
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Looks like I have the hybrid racing conversion harness.
The 02 dongle looks identical.
After some intense research I think I may have the wires backwards?
 

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I can't speak for your adapter harness but on mine the four wires are red, blue, green, and orange. Looking through the service manual I can find:

AFS+: Red
AFS-: Yel/grn
AFSHTC: Green
AFSHTC+: White

On my adapter harness I have:
AFS+: Red
AFS-: Green
AFSHTC: Blue
AFSHTC+: Orange

Therefore, using the picture below as a reference I would expect to see my red wire in the top left, green in the top right, blue in the bottom right, and orange in the bottom left (when looking at the A/F sensor connector).
101477
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I just tried it again the same way as the picture on Hybrid Racing's website and its still throwing the code..
I wonder if the sensor heater is bad but I checked the resistance and its good.
I checked where the wires plug into the ECU harness and if you wiggle the wires/ecu the idle jumps up 500 then goes back down... The joys of dealing with someone else's wiring problems.
Would it harm anything to drive it with no 02 sensor? It has a professional tune on it so does it really make much of a difference or do I need to get this sorted ASAP?
Is it possible having it connected wrong fried something in the ECM? When I looked over the wiring today the constant 12v wire into the relay is directly connected to the battery with no fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Today I tested all circuits and everything was good. Still getting the engine light.
Maybe the 02 is bad.. not sure at this point. Either that or the ECU circuit is fried but its still giving the relay its ground source so I cant see that..
Because it has a tune it runs in open loop anyways doesn't it? Doesn't it run completely off the tune and not adjust injector duration based on A/F or does it?
Basically it is my understanding that with my current setup the only thing the 02 really does is offer me lean protection? It definitely doesn't seem to have any less power now vs. before the rebuild.
 

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You have Kpro, right? You can go in and see if it's setup to run in open or closed loop. What A/F sensor are you using? I'm using a stock '03 RSX Type S in mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
You have Kpro, right? You can go in and see if it's setup to run in open or closed loop. What A/F sensor are you using? I'm using a stock '03 RSX Type S in mine.
Yea I have kpro. It is for sure running open loop. It has the same sensor you are using from the rsx-s. I see kpro has the option to disable the code I am getting so I will likely do that. I figured out how to connect the European ECU to our Honda diagnostic tools at work and can now pull up full data lists. With the wires plugged in the same way as the hybrid racing photo I get a steady AF reading but still a heater code.
 

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And you're sure it's wired properly? I hate a fault for the heater when I first did the swap. Took me weeks before I realized I had put the wire in ECU connector A instead of E.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
And you're sure it's wired properly? I hate a fault for the heater when I first did the swap. Took me weeks before I realized I had put the wire in ECU connector A instead of E.
Definitely 100% wired properly at the ECU side. It worked 100$ fine before i pulled the engine the last time and the wires pulled from the connector at the sensor (pulled from harness side plug). ECU connector A pin 8 (purple OEM wire) supplies ground to the heater relay when the car is running. With ignition ON the relay is not activated - not until its cranking/running. This part of the circuit is fine. That black wire goes to the relay pin 86. IG ON power checks out OK on relay pin 30. STEADY 12V in relay pin 85. Voltage out to heater on pin 87. Pin #87 on the relay is a bit deformed like it has heated up significantly in the past. The white wire from pin 87 goes back into the ECU conversion harness where I'm assuming the positive signal travels back through the ECU then to the 02 sensor heater. The actual ground at the sensor heater itself also comes direct from ECU where resistance is limited (ground side variable resister within the ECU).
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I found another case of someone with the exact same problem on another board. He spent days/weeks diagnosing and ended up replacing the sensor and its been fine since. I am pulling the car into the shop today. I am going to reconnect the harness as per the Hybris Racing photo and allow it to read the A/F readings which it was according to the Honda Datalist. Ill buy a new sensor in a few weeks when I have more money. I cant drive it full time for awhile yet anyways because of the weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I still have code p1166 unfortunately but it is running great in open loop. My gas milage has actually been very good. I have now put on around 1000lkm since putting the engine back in... its running amazingly well. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Very proud to finally be able to say I have got rid of every single code. Not a single one of the modules has any sort of codes what so ever. Had to replace multiple ABS sensors, wire resistors into the drivers airbag circuit for intergra -r Momo steering wheel, disable immobilizer to get rid of flashing green key, P1166 ended up being a wiring issue all along. I went over the entire harness again and checked continuities and realised I did indeed have my colours backwards - apparently Hybrid Racing has changed their harness colours many times. Also did every engine bay harness in a heat resistant wire wrap - looks great now.
2500km since the engine rebuild, not even down a single drop of oil and still running amazing - might need new tires again soon though. :D
 
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