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No, just clean it if salvageable. If you want be 100% sure, count the needles in a surviving needle bearing and could the ones from the broken ones you found across the engine. No need to change the oil pump tensioner if it still is springy and not worn.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I pulled the head from the block today.
Everything looks great.. I can see marks in the small amounts of carbon on top of pistons 2 and 3 where they made valve contact but i dont see anything on 1 and 4 so I should be dealing with 8 valves at the most Im hoping. I turned the motor over a few times with the head off and the cylinder walls look brand new. Everything including the pistons is very very clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Awesome, depending on the market, either replace & refresh the valves or get an other head.
Going to drop it off at a qualified machine shop on Monday. I am a technician at the local Honda dealership and thats where we send all of our heads for cleaning/inspection/valve guides etc. We have been sending k24 heads out like crazy to get seals and guides replaced and occasionally the odd valve. I think the k24 and my k20a are very similar. I will replace all the bad valves with genuine Honda K20A2 valves which I am sure are the same as the K20a valves. I will also replace any guides/seals they say are no good. The last one we sent out at work only took 2 days. I am pretty sure I have the only K20A in the city I live in. The closest one I know of is a couple hours drive away so sourcing a new head isn't really an option,
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The machine shop called me this afternoon. He said all 16 valves are bent and need to be replaced. Some guides and seals need to be replaced as well. Hes going to do everything needed and it should be ready in the next couple of weeks. Seems like lots of damage.. more than i expected. I really hope all is good when this is all back together and hopefully running again.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Finally got my head back with 16 new valves, new seals and guides. I got a new OEM head gasket so I am not ready to start putting the engine back together! :)
 

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and remember to put the crank pulley bolt on exactly as described in the workshop manual. If a shop does it, print them a copy of the relevant page with the instructions showing torque and where oil has to put on the bolt and washer before the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You are just referring to the part where you put new engine oil on the threads/washer then torque to 35 then an additional 90 degrees right? As far as the timing gear pin/key and the crank pulley key there is only one way to install correct? I put the oil pump chain and timing gear back together over a month ago I am wondering if I should take it back apart and re-check it. I should have the head back on the block tonight or tomorrow morning. I still need to rebuild the rocker assembly. I am going to use the complete rocker assembly from the original engine that completely blew up as well as the cams from that engine. The cams are a bit scuffed on two lobes from when the two roller rockers shattered on the newer engine so that's why I am going to avoid them.
 

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No, I was referring to the bolt of the crank pulley.
These are tightened just by torque.

The incorrect fitment of this bolt caused all your issues in first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I am pretty sure the guy at the machine shop used the wrong valves in my head? I have the head back on with the cams and everything installed. It is timed perfectly and after turning it over a few times the cam marks and all the chain marks line up perfectly. When I turn it over with a ratchet i can hear/feel air coming out of the exhaust side of each cylinder on the compression stroke...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I just flipped the engine on its side so the exhaust ports are facing up. I filled the ports with oil on number 1 cylinder and turned the engine over with a ratchet. As soon as the piston started coming up for the compression stroke the oil bubbled on the timing chain side valve seat. I repeated this process for all cylinders and the timing chain side valve is leaking on every cylinder exhaust side except #4 is making compression.. so it appears the guy at the machine shop put the wrong valves in the head... how the hell do you manage that? Or could there be something else I'm missing?
 
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