[SiRcivic27]

I need a new motor and its looking like I might be swapping a K20 into my EM1 2000 civic Si. I can go NA and pay out my ass for the DC5-R motor or my buddy has his motor sitting is his '02 si that I could have because he wants to go K24. He would trade me for whats in my car now; motor, drive train, ECU all of it, since I wont be needing it anymore plus alittle cash, dont know how much yet. His motor has 40K miles on it. Because I wouldnt be paying for a DC5-R we were thinking about throwing a turbo in there at the same time to get HP numbers up. Now I was thinking turbo down the road on the DC5-R, but what do you all think? I love the red valve covers on the R's, in would kinda match in my engine bay but I really dont know which way to go here... boost would be great but I really just dont know, I kinda want to go all out, do the DC5-R and just wait for a turbo.

thanks in advance for you advice and opinions.

Dana

 

[11248c]

Whew...this might be a long one. Um.....well N/A is always more realible than F.I.

Basically this would be another N/A vs. F.I topic. To make this short, if you've been involved in N/A vs. F.I debates before, this is the same thing. Sure it's a new motor with more potential and blah,blah,blah. I'm gonna tell you go N/A(DC5-R) in the end it will be better(i.e more realiable and no turbo lag and blah,blah,blah).

Well here we go........... next opinion.

 

[NAturalDC2]

Whew...this might be a long one. Um.....well N/A is always more realible than F.I.

Basically this would be another N/A vs. F.I topic. To make this short, if you've been involved in N/A vs. F.I debates before, this is the same thing. Sure it's a new motor with more potential and blah,blah,blah. I'm gonna tell you go N/A(DC5-R) in the end it will be better(i.e more realiable and no turbo lag and blah,blah,blah).

Well here we go........... next opinion.

You stand uncorrected :up:

 

[K2e2vin]

well i believe that a FI engine can be just as reliable as a N/A motor, for one with a FI engine you can make as much HP as the N/A without having to rev as high(as we know, rpms make engines wear out quicker). Which route to pick will pretty much depend on what youre looking for. Some people like the flat torque band of NA, while others like the punch from turbochargers.
Since you will be building the motor anyways, i say go for the K20A2, get a red valve cover from a place the sells JDM parts and just use that extra money to reinforce the block or some other parts. If you do go with the Type-R, you will most likely end up taking out the Type-R parts in favor of parts that work well with boost(mainly cams and pistons), but can probally sell them off on ebay or something and make some money off it.

btw, turbo lag would only be in first gear. with the 6-speed transmission, it should help keep the car in boost anyways. a properly sized turbo will also help lower lag(maybe since its 2l like the SR20, a GT28RS might work great for the K20s).

 

[JRSCEP3]

K20A ITR all motor, ITB's TODA,MUGEN ,SPOON parts and own the FI guys!

my.02 lmfao and im boosted K

 

[NJk20aBeast]

Personally...if you REALLY want to go turbo, I would say stick with the A3. Reason being is because of the lower compression and the less aggressive cams. There are people pulling just as good gains with A3 motors as people with A2 motors. Also, if you like the red valve cover..BUY ONE!

If you wanna go the K20a route..and THEN boost you have to think about that 11:5:1 compression. Way high to boost it. It's possible for sure..but it would be at very low PSI. I see it as more a NA motor.

My Conclusion... K20a3 = Turbo (and get the red valve cover) .... K20a = NA :dance:

 

[11248c]

You stand uncorrected :up:

So naturalDC2, you don't think it'll be another N/A vs. F.I debate???? Look at the posts so far and tell me..........

 

[11248c]

K20A ITR all motor, ITB's TODA,MUGEN ,SPOON parts and own the FI guys!

my.02 lmfao and im boosted K

See! Now you'll have a F.I guy say "What!! I bet if you sleeve the block with CP pistons and crower rods, get the IPS-Kpsi cams, FULL valvetrain with a GT ball bearing turbo(or any others) Big Front mount I.C, clucth, FPR, 3" exhaust etc,etc,etc......you can make about 3-500WHP......and be just as realiable as an N/A car!!!!!"

Now watch and see someone will say that soon!

 

[K2e2vin]

11248c i dont know why you are trying to turn this into a FI vs. NA thread, when his question is mainly about what would be more convenient in his situation. even if you do build a all-out allmotor car, you can still build up the K20A2 to the same specs as the K20A without having to spend all the money for it up front.
SiRcivic27, from what i see you have a very good opportunity to get a K20A2 and make it fast. Lets say you do get the K20A-R, you will have already paid out the ass for it and now need to sell your current motor...time lost and maybe some money also: Well, if you just trade for the K20A2 and are still wanting to spend some money, you can spend all the money on parts that will make the K20A2 faster than the K20A-R, whether turbo or all-motor.
Whether you go boost or all-motor, is up to you. Just ask yourself what you really want and pick the route that best fits what you are looking for.

 

[SiRcivic27]

If I do go K20a3 and turbo it will I need anything other than a turbo and intercooler kit? Probably a clutch and flywheel, but should everything else be good to do? Can I run an RSX type s tranny on the K20a3?

 

[NJk20aBeast]

If I do go K20a3 and turbo it will I need anything other than a turbo and intercooler kit? Probably a clutch and flywheel, but should everything else be good to do? Can I run an RSX type s tranny on the K20a3?

You can also invest in some LSD. I would just stick with what I got and build it up.. :dance:

 

[grownlazy420]

get your buddies motor. If you plan on modifying the engine chances are it wont matter which motor it is. As to what other parts you should get if you go turbo: clutch, axles, and it wouldn't hurt to get an all aluminum radiator(less heat the better !) Good luck

 

[Zeus]

Whew...this might be a long one. Um.....well N/A is always more realible than F.I.

Basically this would be another N/A vs. F.I topic. To make this short, if you've been involved in N/A vs. F.I debates before, this is the same thing. Sure it's a new motor with more potential and blah,blah,blah. I'm gonna tell you go N/A(DC5-R) in the end it will be better(i.e more realiable and no turbo lag and blah,blah,blah).

Well here we go........... next opinion.

Couldn't been said any better:up:
I agree

 

[-=K20A=-]

why spend like 6g's do get around 250whp n/a when u can get 400whp with a full race turbo kit for 6g's

 

[B18c5turbo]

why spend like 6g's do get around 250whp n/a when u can get 400whp with a full race turbo kit for 6g's

It is more than 6 K''s, to get a full race 400 whp setupt, rods,pistons, + plus machine works cost arround 2000 $ right there, + the turbo kits

 

[Zeus]

It is more than 6 K''s, to get a full race 400 whp setupt, rods,pistons, + plus machine works cost arround 2000 $ right there, + the turbo kits

I hope this don't turn out to be a NA vs F.I

 

[B18c5turbo]

I hope this don't turn out to be a NA vs F.I

i dont think soo , i just a personal opinion there, i love n/a and i love F/I both are funny to drive.

 

[Zeus]

yup both are fun to drive but i slightly like N.A better than turbo but i also like the BOV of turbos, gives me the weelies.:silly:

 

[hotwyrzz]

well I got a good one for you guys. I HAVE a JDM CTR, which ofcourse, comes with the 11.5 compression K20 type R motor. Question is, which route do I go??? I mean is it the NA route or F.I?? problem with F.I is that I'll need to change the internals and stuff..can't I run F.I on stock internals albeit on low boost??.. can I?? or should I stick with NA and preserve the true essence of the R factor?? all these bolt on turbo kits being offered along with the complete fuel management are for engines having a much lower compression.. that leaves the NA route to be the safer bet, IPS perhaps??

 

[Zeus]

well I got a good one for you guys. I HAVE a JDM CTR, which ofcourse, comes with the 11.5 compression K20 type R motor. Question is, which route do I go??? I mean is it the NA route or F.I?? problem with F.I is that I'll need to change the internals and stuff..can't I run F.I on stock internals albeit on low boost??.. can I?? or should I stick with NA and preserve the true essence of the R factor?? all these bolt on turbo kits being offered along with the complete fuel management are for engines having a much lower compression.. that leaves the NA route to be the safer bet, IPS perhaps??

The thing is you choose watever u like, or watever ur going to do w/ ur car for example, Daily driven,Drag,Auto-x or Road racing. The K20A R has a very high compression ratio. Its going to takes years until someone figures out how to put a turbo on a high compression engine and get high boost out of it. If i had a k20a r,(i will have one soon) i would keep it N.A. If you decide to go turbo might as well sell ur engine n buy a k24 or k20a2 (type s). its all about wat ur going to do w/ ur car.