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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Really nice! Any modifications to the subframe or oil pan at all? What was done to the bell housing exactly? What flywheel/clutch/pressure plate are you running? Did the shifter end up in the right location?
The engine fits behind the cross member but I cut out some of the passenger foot well and the heater box. The bell housing is made by McGregor Motorsports and uses all factory parts. The flywheel and pressure plate are Honda and the disc is Toyota. It would use the stock external slave but I had to use an internal slave because of space. The shifter was already in the right position since the trans was already in the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I reweighed the car with a near full tank of gas and the car is rear biased. I borrowed some truck scales that are good to the nearest 10lbs and the car came out to 1060lbs front and 1140lbs rear, total about 2200lbs. This is without me in the car. 48/52 split.

I'm also building a new rear for the car slowly. It's a narrowed Ford 8.8 that will have disc brakes and LSD with a 3.08 gear. My highway RPMs should be much better at ~2.9k at 70 instead of the 4k I'm pulling right now. The stock gear is a 3.9 ratio.

The car still needs a full tune too.

The filter has been upgraded to an HKS pod instead of the cheap Amazon filter I was using.
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It feels really good. I can't tell you the weight difference but it's probably at least 100lbs. Still needs to be fully tuned but it's a little rocket.

And the car and engine bay has changed a little bit. Hardtop is on and I fitted a much larger radiator out of a Ford Falcon.
That green is what green should look like. My neighbor growing up had the same exact car (not sure about the year), I mean it looks like the same exact car and color. Brings back memories. My old neighbor also collected Triumph's, a crazy orange colored one. Congrats on getting this swap done. With the TQ from the K24 I can only imagine how it moves out just barely tapping the throttle.... let alone winding out 2-3 gears back to back.

Thank you for sharing this build with K20a.org. There is nothing better than seeing the old mixed with the new like this. What kind of engine mounts are you using, I am sure they are custom? What I am asking is what grade bushing are you using 60A, 70A, etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That green is what green should look like. My neighbor growing up had the same exact car (not sure about the year), I mean it looks like the same exact car and color. Brings back memories. My old neighbor also collected Triumph's, a crazy orange colored one. Congrats on getting this swap done. With the TQ from the K24 I can only imagine how it moves out just barely tapping the throttle.... let alone winding out 2-3 gears back to back.

Thank you for sharing this build with K20a.org. There is nothing better than seeing the old mixed with the new like this. What kind of engine mounts are you using, I am sure they are custom? What I am asking is what grade bushing are you using 60A, 70A, etc.?
They're custom mounts using poly leaf spring bushings but I can't remember the durometer, on the softer side I think, The trans is using a poly GM trans mount and the bracket from the stock Toyota mount.

I can cruise in 5th at 30mph without it chugging too badly. The torque is very nice, it would be hard to stall.

Ford 8.8 eh ? Does someone have plans for power adders incoming ? Very cool project I love the look of the car mixed with the 2.4 😎
I don't plan on making more power but the stock axle may or may not hold up over time. Putting an LSD into the stock rear is more expensive than me building a narrowed 8.8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
what's going on with you any progress on the build ?
Currently putting the 8.8 together in the car. I'm in the middle of ordering a new driveshaft and building the brake system. How I first had the brake lines routed will need to be changed and the calipers are in pieces on my workbench. It's slow going.

The axle is wider so some wheel flares will be coming, and when I finally go through these tires I'm going with some bigger meat. 15x8 or 15x9 wheels I think.
 

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Currently putting the 8.8 together in the car. I'm in the middle of ordering a new driveshaft and building the brake system. How I first had the brake lines routed will need to be changed and the calipers are in pieces on my workbench. It's slow going.

The axle is wider so some wheel flares will be coming, and when I finally go through these tires I'm going with some bigger meat. 15x8 or 15x9 wheels I think.
Pics of the process work would be great

with my K-swap mid-engine X1/9, I'm running 15x9s with 225/45x15 BFG Rivals on the back end - very grippy indeed - however they only last about 3K miles before they become slicks
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Pics of the process work would be great

with my K-swap mid-engine X1/9, I'm running 15x9s with 225/45x15 BFG Rivals on the back end - very grippy indeed - however they only last about 3K miles before they become slicks
There's not much to take photos of yet. I'll update when I've got everything put together

I plan on running something like that. I've also only driven the car a couple of thousand miles in the last year or so, so I'm not that worried about tire life for the car to say the least.
 

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Currently putting the 8.8 together in the car. I'm in the middle of ordering a new driveshaft and building the brake system. How I first had the brake lines routed will need to be changed and the calipers are in pieces on my workbench. It's slow going.

The axle is wider so some wheel flares will be coming, and when I finally go through these tires I'm going with some bigger meat. 15x8 or 15x9 wheels I think.
thanks for checking in. 15x8 or 15x9 will be an awesome shoe for the car and they come light weight. I loved my 15x7.5's.

Builds always have their slow patches, we need brakes from them too. I get burned out sometimes.
 

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Pics of the process work would be great

with my K-swap mid-engine X1/9, I'm running 15x9s with 225/45x15 BFG Rivals on the back end - very grippy indeed - however they only last about 3K miles before they become slicks
brother you take great photos and have composed a stellar build thread. thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Now I have some updates. The axle is back in the car but with some interference with the DS I'll need to solve. The last item that needs to be figured out are the parking brake cables. After that it's final assembly and bleeding the brakes then it should be back on the road.

Brakes are on the axle with the lines completed.

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I was quoted nearly $600 for a new driveshaft and for that price I decided to get the stock DS to work. McMaster-Carr sells aluminum tube in as short as an inch in length. A 2" ID pipe fits the centering ring on the diff, then I threw it in the lathe at work and matched it to the DS centering ring then drilled holes for the mounting bolts. The diff flange was also drilled and tapped for the new mounting bolts.

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With the axle back in the car I found that the DS hits on some sheet metal. I'm pretty sure that it's not structural but I'm going to find out before I cut it out. Even though this axle is narrowed the pinon is still offset enough to not work.

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It's close to fitting.

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Now I have some updates. The axle is back in the car but with some interference with the DS I'll need to solve. The last item that needs to be figured out are the parking brake cables. After that it's final assembly and bleeding the brakes then it should be back on the road.

Brakes are on the axle with the lines completed.

View attachment 106622

I was quoted nearly $600 for a new driveshaft and for that price I decided to get the stock DS to work. McMaster-Carr sells aluminum tube in as short as an inch in length. A 2" ID pipe fits the centering ring on the diff, then I threw it in the lathe at work and matched it to the DS centering ring then drilled holes for the mounting bolts. The diff flange was also drilled and tapped for the new mounting bolts.

View attachment 106620
View attachment 106621

With the axle back in the car I found that the DS hits on some sheet metal. I'm pretty sure that it's not structural but I'm going to find out before I cut it out. Even though this axle is narrowed the pinon is still offset enough to not work.

View attachment 106618

It's close to fitting.

View attachment 106619
I would question whether the aluminum spacer is suitable for the DS adaptor. Can't you make a hybrid flange welding the MG pattern flange to the "hub" of the Ford pinion flange? With access to machine equipment, shouldn't be that hard to balance/center. Otherwise, going to that long of a bolt, shouldn't you go up in size to compensate for the new length?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I would question whether the aluminum spacer is suitable for the DS adaptor. Can't you make a hybrid flange welding the MG pattern flange to the "hub" of the Ford pinion flange? With access to machine equipment, shouldn't be that hard to balance/center. Otherwise, going to that long of a bolt, shouldn't you go up in size to compensate for the new length?
There's some companies that make spacers for common axle swaps so I thought it should be fine. If the bolts don't work out then I'll modify the flange itself. This was just an easy and cheap way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Axle is in and the car moves! Had to trim some sheet metal and the old battery tray under the car, and got the brakes built. The axle is a smidge wider that gives the wheels a great offset, now I'll get spacers for the front to match and probably roll the rear fenders. The problem I'm having is spongy brakes going to discs from drums in the rear. I'm thinking I'll have to get a bigger master cylinder. My 3" exhaust still fits though and added another muffler so its about how loud I want it.

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