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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, first post here. I’m finishing up a K swap on my 2003 Celica. The motor is fully built K24A4 with Eagle rods, JE pistons, ARP everything, and King race bearings. The current head is a completely stock K24A4 head (complications with building the second head). It’s got a gt3076 eBay special turbo, and some other little goodies. Since the first start, the car has not run right. It misses constantly on atleast one cylinder. The only code it throws is the P0341 VTC Phase gap. Thinking the timings out? Nope. I’ve retimed the motor 3 times now and am almost certain it is perfectly in time. The car will not rev. When any throttle is applied it immediately “stalls” for a few seconds before coming back to idle. KPro shows the motor pulling a ton of timing, and more when throttle is applied. Not sure why that’s happening. If any throttle is applied it immediately drops to -10 or less. Today I sprayed some carb cleaner around the MAP sensor to check for a vacuum leak. The idle smoothed out and stopped missing for maybe 5 seconds before violently surging between 500-1200rpm until the car is turned off. At this point I’m completely lost for what could possibly be wrong. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Welcome to K20a.org @Grecoman. A veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery nice looking project car you have there!

The idle smoothed out and stopped missing for maybe 5 seconds before violently surging between 500-1200rpm until the car is turned off. At this point I’m completely lost for what could possibly be wrong
Would you mind to share log and calibration via cloud? Without seeing what is happening during logging it is challenging to understand the problem from remote.
 

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Welcome to K20a.org @Grecoman. A veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery nice looking project car you have there!

Would you mind to share log and calibration via cloud? Without seeing what is happening during logging it is challenging to understand the problem from remote.

Agree, a log is almost a necessity at this point. That being said, it sounds like it might have a vacuum leak somewhere if your idle cleaned up/rev'd when sprayed down with carb cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to K20a.org @Grecoman. A veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery nice looking project car you have there!

Would you mind to share log and calibration via cloud? Without seeing what is happening during logging it is challenging to understand the problem from remote.
Thank you! It’s been my senior year COVID project. I won’t be able to be in the car to datalog for a week or so (finals week coming up). I’ll get one uploaded as soon as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Agree, a log is almost a necessity at this point. That being said, it sounds like it might have a vacuum leak somewhere if your idle cleaned up/rev'd when sprayed down with carb cleaner.
I also suspect a vacuum leak, but that still leaves the P0341 code. It will throw a different code for the sensor being bad correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey guys, first post here. I’m finishing up a K swap on my 2003 Celica. The motor is fully built K24A4 with Eagle rods, JE pistons, ARP everything, and King race bearings. The current head is a completely stock K24A4 head (complications with building the second head). It’s got a gt3076 eBay special turbo, and some other little goodies. Since the first start, the car has not run right. It misses constantly on atleast one cylinder. The only code it throws is the P0341 VTC Phase gap. Thinking the timings out? Nope. I’ve retimed the motor 3 times now and am almost certain it is perfectly in time. The car will not rev. When any throttle is applied it immediately “stalls” for a few seconds before coming back to idle. KPro shows the motor pulling a ton of timing, and more when throttle is applied. Not sure why that’s happening. If any throttle is applied it immediately drops to -10 or less. Today I sprayed some carb cleaner around the MAP sensor to check for a vacuum leak. The idle smoothed out and stopped missing for maybe 5 seconds before violently surging between 500-1200rpm until the car is turned off. At this point I’m completely lost for what could possibly be wrong. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

(mandatory pics)
View attachment 104310 View attachment 104311 View attachment 104312
Alright guys, update. Had some time to work on the car today. Datalog didn’t save so I don’t have one yet. What I did notice is the tps isn’t reading in the display section of kmanager when the car is running. It is calibrated and shows up just fine with ignition on but car off. I also noticed that the missing and struggling completely cleared up over 2000rpm. Datalog still coming.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Senior year = last year of high school
High school, is that the preparation school for University? Or does it include internships at companies to get into the jobs? We have here in Germany: support level, basic level, mid level schools (Sonder-, Haupt-, and Mittelschule) which gives one the change to graduate at that level, and offers an entry capability for many jobs. For example one need none of these for a hair cutter, but you need here mid level school to start a carpenter apprenticeship (= dual, job and school). Finally there is also an upper level school which give one the allowance to study at University and offer almost to all job apprenticeships (many are dual too) from bank businessman till mechanic. We have also here, what I did, a 2nd path to University: doing a mid level school graduation, do a job apprenticeship (most are 3 years) and then go back to full time or evening school to add the graduation to University level, which is 2 year full time. So I am one of few or the only Tiler who have a PhD/Dr.-Ing. 😅. The openness of the German school system is great beside it is almost totally free of fees. Thanks the tax paid state school system. So I am very curious like it is in the US. I've read it can be very expensive to get an degree from University, or even high schools. Not sure if this applys to all states and or school systems in the US.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
High school, is that the preparation school for University? Or does it include internships at companies to get into the jobs? We have here in Germany: support level, basic level, mid level schools (Sonder-, Haupt-, and Mittelschule) which gives one the change to graduate at that level, and offers an entry capability for many jobs. For example one need none of these for a hair cutter, but you need here mid level school to start a carpenter apprenticeship (= dual, job and school). Finally there is also an upper level school which give one the allowance to study at University and offer almost to all job apprenticeships (many are dual too) from bank businessman till mechanic. We have also here, what I did, a 2nd path to University: doing a mid level school graduation, do a job apprenticeship (most are 3 years) and then go back to full time or evening school to add the graduation to University level, which is 2 year full time. So I am one of few or the only Tiler who have a PhD/Dr.-Ing. 😅. The openness of the German school system is great beside it is almost totally free of fees. Thanks the tax paid state school system. So I am very curious like it is in the US. I've read it can be very expensive to get an degree from University, or even high schools. Not sure if this applys to all states and or school systems in the US.
Yea, we go from high school to university. High school is usually free (unless you choose private school), and university (college) level education will usually run you almost $100,000 for the first four years. Graduate school (past university) will run you even more. It’s crazy expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yea, we go from high school to university. High school is usually free (unless you choose private school), and university (college) level education will usually run you almost $100,000 for the first four years. Graduate school (past university) will run you even more. It’s crazy expensive.
Update - I didn't realize there were different marks on the crank pulley, and I was timing to the 16* BTDC mark. Ive got it on the REAL tdc mark now, and the chain will not line up with the exhaust cam. It's either so tight on the exhaust cam gear that it wont seat, or it feels reasonably tight and is sitting ON a link instead of IN BETWEEN (K24). i know the timing is spot on on the crank gear. Reassembled it with the exhaust cam a link off and the car runs substantially better, but still falls on its face below 2000rpm. Guess I'll retime it again today and report back.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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and I was timing to the 16* BTDC mark. Ive got it on the REAL tdc mark now
Those marks are not necessarily marking TDC. You are fine if you align the markings of crank, exhaust and intake cam gearwheel with the chain markers.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Graduate school (past university) will run you even more. It’s crazy expensive.
There is a systematic need of lower taxes to get it repaid or to get a scholarship. I am sorry for you guys that the obstacles going that route are that high.
 
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