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Discussion Starter #44
Must be nice... I would love to use something different for a laundry list of reasons, just ALOT of work and money to change it at this point when i've got something that kind of works sometimes maybe when it might decide that it thinks its a good idea to attempt to function properly... catch 22:down:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Where is Hondata??? it's time to step up and fix this nonsense. for the $ paid on this thing it ought to work all the time, every time. cutting off at 6,000 is unacceptable seeing as that is a pretty critical time to start having things tuned right :rolleyes:

We arent talking about a coincidental thing. Not everyone here is doing something wrong. Address the problem

I just so happen to be working on another build which does NOT currently have an ECU. As i have said before there are alot of reasons i would like to get away from using Hondata... Doesnt sound like they are going to come up with a fix any time soon.
 

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the one question you never answered was your grounds. Due to the extra communication between the nitrous and your switch, additional grounds are required. At 6k+ rpms, it is very possible that the k-pro board is seeing too much interference & thus stops logging.

Hondata also recommends dry kits, just an fyi
 

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Hondata also recommends dry kits, just an fyi
Thats if you are using Kpro to spray the car.

My buddy has a Turbo K24eg with kpro and when my tuner came down to tune the car about every other pull it would stop logging but never kick it off line. Luckly we was on the dyno and atleast have the A/F saved. I have 3 friends that have similar problems plus more with their Kpro. Thats why they have all switched to AEM. I have AEM and love it. Never have a problem datalogging.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
the one question you never answered was your grounds. Due to the extra communication between the nitrous and your switch, additional grounds are required. At 6k+ rpms, it is very possible that the k-pro board is seeing too much interference & thus stops logging.

Hondata also recommends dry kits, just an fyi
The nitrous is NOT wired in through k-pro in any way shape or form.
Everything is grounded properly, there is nothing even connected to the ECU as far as the nitrous goes.

The ECU would NOT control the nitrous when I wired it Via hondata's wiring diagram so i aborted that mission (that's a whole different story). When I spray, i change the maps MANUALLY to the secondary nitrous map with the laptop before I make my runs. This is a dry kit FYI
 

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Its not you. If there is nothing tied to the Kpro then whala its the KPRO. Do you have any other friends with a Kpro? If so load your map on their ecu and try it then.
 

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This has happened to me before but not in a VERY long time. I wired in a nitrous kit today (NOT through k-pro, the k-pro remained untouched)... When i was attempting to datalog to fine tune everything it would stop datalogging consistently at 6600rpms like it lost connection to the ecu. it would say "off-line" at the bottom. Pull the usb out, plug it back in and it goes right back to normal and will intermittently cut off again during normal driving, but ALWAYS right in the middle of a nitrous pull

Any ideas what this could be? im going to the track tommorow and would really like to be able to make this thing run as strong as possible while im there...

try using a diode to prevent backwash of current, when a relay/solenoid shuts off it creates a huge spike, this spike can create electrical gremlins as the one one you're describing. use them on the relays/solenoids on your nitrous system. at a $1.49 give this a try.. and post ur results.

use the 3A or 6A depending on how much current the Nos solenoid uses.

use the 1A if your system uses any relays.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062577
 

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try using a diode to prevent backwash of current, when a relay/solenoid shuts off it creates a huge spike, this spike can create electrical gremlins as the one one you're describing. use them on the relays/solenoids on your nitrous system. at a $1.49 give this a try.. and post ur results.

use the 3A or 6A depending on how much current the Nos solenoid uses.

use the 1A if your system uses any relays.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062577
very interesting solution to the nitrous problem.

I also have had this same exact problem since day one of my swap. hondata told me that it was user error and that my ecu was fried.....3 years later car still runs on it....

I have 3 4ga grounds on the motor and 1 on the tranny. everything was done properly as stated on hondata's website. the daughter board is just a picky little B
 

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so i had this problem forever in two different cars and couldn't figure it out..........until now.

heres how i fixed it:

-put ferrite beads on the usb cable at both ends, as many as you can. they stop electric noise (i have 7 on each end...really i do)

-run the usb cable to the laptop so it doesn't over lap or lay over it self

thats it and now it stays connected with out any issues :up:
 
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