[6spd EK]

This has happened to me before but not in a VERY long time. I wired in a nitrous kit today (NOT through k-pro, the k-pro remained untouched)... When i was attempting to datalog to fine tune everything it would stop datalogging consistently at 6600rpms like it lost connection to the ecu. it would say "off-line" at the bottom. Pull the usb out, plug it back in and it goes right back to normal and will intermittently cut off again during normal driving, but ALWAYS right in the middle of a nitrous pull

Any ideas what this could be? im going to the track tommorow and would really like to be able to make this thing run as strong as possible while im there...

 

[Mr_Plenty]

iirc you need to add a ferrite bead or two to your usb cable. this should solve your issue. It has something to do with noise interference. There were a few people who tried shorter cables, longer cables etc but to no avail. try the ferrite beads.

 

[6spd EK]

Wow, this is something i would have never thought of in a million years. I guess for 5 bucks i can stop in at a Radio Shaq and give this a whirl. Just seems very strange to me that it's cutting up so bad now, and hasnt in MONTHS and also wasnt cutting up earlier on in the day before i started spraying the car. maybe the extra noise?

Another thought I was having last night is that the main power wire is attatched directly to the battery... Would that pull enough juice from it to cause an issue? That still wouldnt explain why it cuts in and out during normal driving. I'll definetly give this ferrite thing a try tho. thanks for your response:up:

*edit* Just realized after reading through some more stuff that me changing my spark plugs last night may have something to do with the problem. Come to think of it, it all happened right after the change from stockers to the NGK-R's which are a cooler heat range... Really wanna get this taken care of before the track this evening...

 

[drhonda]

you need resister type spark plugs.

 

[6spd EK]

pretty sure that's what the R stands for in NGK-R... At least that's what their site says... but that would make sense if they arent as crucial as the stockers

 

[drhonda]

whats the part number on the plug that you used?

 

[Spunkster]

pretty sure that's what the R stands for in NGK-R... At least that's what their site says... but that would make sense if they arent as crucial as the stockers

This is incorrect. That R stands for Race which means non-resistor. Get resistor plugs to resolve the problem.

 

[6spd EK]

I'm only going off of the info from NGK's website

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqresistor.asp?nav=31200&country=US

 

[1320WhtRex]

This is incorrect. That R stands for Race which means non-resistor.....

LOL.... Funniest thing Ive read all day today..

 

[6spd EK]

I just wanna make sure any and all information in here is Legit. After searching "ferrite" i came across some more info... I did a couple datalog pulls earlier (not on the bottle) and it hasnt cut off so far. I went and bought 2 of those ferrite cable snap on things for $3 at radio shack. Put one on right near the plug that enters the ECU and the other about 8 inches from the computer side of the cable. Hope this holds out and i can get this tune more agressive and running better... car felt NASTY last night with low bottle pressure and "100 shot" so it's gonna be good :dance:

 

[1320WhtRex]

Please get some Resistor Plugs....

 

[drhonda]

I'm only going off of the info from NGK's website

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqresistor.asp?nav=31200&country=US

the part number in the plug itself will tell you if its a resistor type plug.

 

[6spd EK]

i'll pull em out and check in a bit... what would a good cooler heat range resistor plug be to use (part #)... i can scoop some before i hit the track and have this all taken care of... maybe the onces i have are in fact not resistor plugs, i have no idea, but it would make sense

 

[1320WhtRex]

NGK Iridum BKR8EIX stock #2668's will be fine.

 

[drhonda]

i'll pull em out and check in a bit... what would a good cooler heat range resistor plug be to use (part #)... i can scoop some before i hit the track and have this all taken care of... maybe the onces i have are in fact not resistor plugs, i have no idea, but it would make sense

Rule of thumb is about one step colder per 75-100hp

 

[6spd EK]

/\ definitely... it's just confusing the way the part numbers work... seems impossible to go to the parts store and tell them you want a spark plug that is a heat range cooler than stock... all they know how to do is ask what car you have and give you the factory parts or equivalent

 

[jdmdc529]

i have the same problem, I can only record a full pull about once every 5 times. I am going to pick up a new cable today see if that helps.

i run ngk bkr9eix btw

 

[Mr_Plenty]

It's only a few bucks attempt the ferrite beads. Other than that like the other guys say make sure the spark plugs are resistor type.

 

[k20addict]

for any type of induction w/kpro, the ecu requires resistor type due to the daughterboard being very picky with signals and interfearance

 

[6spd EK]

car is now using resistor plugs with ferrite beads on the USB cable. All motor, the computer datalogs fine, on the bottle, it stops as soon as i spray. I dont know what else to do because i cannot tune the car without knowing what is going on.

K-pro and hondata in general has started to irritate me lately. Their customer service is miserable and although the capability is fantastic, somehow i am not able to datalog when it is most crucial and i am now dealing with a power level that could potentially harm the motor if it's not tuned right...I dont feel these are problems that should be occuring with a 1300+ dollar ecu setup

Any other ideas?