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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having a serious problem with my k swap. So I've checked for continuity from the map sensor plug to the ecu plug for the signal wire, no short in the wire. Tested ground and 5v reference on the map sensor plug it's getting 5v. Tried to test the map sensor by sucking the inlet to cause a vacuum reads voltage change on the multimeter but k manager shows no change. Why is this even possible I've even tried another MAP sensor.
 

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can the ECU somehow be configured to use a different input pin for the MAP sensor?
Are the calibration settings right for a stock sensor?
My Doctronic ECU can also show raw MAP sensor voltage. What readings do you get?

If it was a 2nd hand ECU, chances are it is damaged.
 

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Having a serious problem with my k swap. So I've checked for continuity from the map sensor plug to the ecu plug for the signal wire, no short in the wire. Tested ground and 5v reference on the map sensor plug it's getting 5v. Tried to test the map sensor by sucking the inlet to cause a vacuum reads voltage change on the multimeter but k manager shows no change. Why is this even possible I've even tried another MAP sensor.
we might see it but we don't all solve problems
I have a suggestion that you call the customer service and explain to them loud and clear .. they might help
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
can the ECU somehow be configured to use a different input pin for the MAP sensor?
Are the calibration settings right for a stock sensor?
My Doctronic ECU can also show raw MAP sensor voltage. What readings do you get?

If it was a 2nd hand ECU, chances are it is damaged.
Yes it has the analog inputs, Right calibration settings it's stock by default. Mine doesn't show any voltage but I have backprobed it with ignition on and it's getting voltage. The ECU was from Tegiwa it has a the K pro pre installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
we might see it but we don't all solve problems
I have a suggestion that you call the customer service and explain to them loud and clear .. they might help
I've gave them a message. Not hoping for much as you void your warranty when the cover is taken off for access to the analog inputs which is stupid should have the warranty on the stickers for the KPRO
 

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it happens that the KPro v4 are defective. If the MAP voltage arrives at the ECU connector, but the ECU won't indicate anything, it is defective.

Do you know anyone with a known good Doctronic or KPro ECU. It should start and somehow idle on a suitable basemap that comes with the ECUs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it happens that the KPro v4 are defective. If the MAP voltage arrives at the ECU connector, but the ECU won't indicate anything, it is defective.

Do you know anyone with a known good Doctronic or KPro ECU. It should start and somehow idle on a suitable basemap that comes with the ECUs.
Looks like am screwed then because warranty is void once the cover is taken off. I don't know anyone with Doctronic or Kpro.
 

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then don't open the cover, but send it bak to Tegiwa for diagnostics.

Do you know someone with an EP3 Civic or Elise k20 conversion where you might plug in your ECU and see if you get a MAP signal there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
then don't open the cover, but send it bak to Tegiwa for diagnostics.

Do you know someone with an EP3 Civic or Elise k20 conversion where you might plug in your ECU and see if you get a MAP signal there?
How am a meant to install the wideband then ? it did come with the connector for analog inputs. Yes I do and I'll give it a try.
 

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normally you have to open the lid on the ECU in order to access the analog and digital IO lines.
It makes no sense to seal this for warranty purposes.
For a idle and start up test you won't need the wideband.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
normally you have to open the lid on the ECU in order to access the analog and digital IO lines.
It makes no sense to seal this for warranty purposes.
For a idle and start up test you won't need the wideband.
Took the ecu to my tuner it works with another Civic, using the factory narrowband now but the voltage doesn't change meaning it's not reading the AFR so looks like my problem is back to the lamda. Still getting fuel and spark.
 

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it should run and idle without lambda signals. Just run it open loop for now.
Would you please check that your TB is completely closed and that your IACV rotor is freely spinning.
 
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