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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here we go guys this will be my first “official” build thread. I’ve Been working with my personal Honda’s for close to 10 years and have put together my fair share with help from friends and local shops. This will only be my second ground up k series build and I’m hoping to stay within a reasonable budget and end up with a result I’m happy with. I just removed the 82x89 sleeved B18c from the bay and getting it ready to go to a new home in my buddies race car and have been gathering parts for the k swap slowly but surely although that did include being sold a bad z1 shortblock 😡. All is well that ends well. On to the parts !

Parts list on the shell :
96 civic HX
Tein super street 1 piece suspension
Truhart camber kits up front
Hardened steel rear camber kit
Spherical toe links
No name traction bar
Dc integra steering rack (not installed)
New tie rods ,
extended SRR ball joints
New Drilled and slotted rotors all around ,new calipers ,new pads oem spec with Infiniti m50 extended wheel studs (14.3 mm stud knurl fit my aftermarket hubs perfect)
Amazon rear lca with upgraded bushings and subframe brace.
probably a few more things I’m forgetting.

As far as k swap parts list I am this far currently -
-Stock Rbc with k2B plate and 70mm TB
-06 type s complete cylinder head with all matching internals
-02-04 6 speed type s gearbox (May swap the 4.7 FD in )
-AeroMotive FPR/Radium fuel rail with all necessary line and fittings to make the system
-oem shift box and cables in the mail
-nrg tech billet manual steering rack bracket
And unfortunately that’s as far as we’ve gotten while waiting for some of the b series parts to sell and I’m still looking for a shortblock or I may just order a jdm k24a and then start building the type s head down the road. I’ll insert more pics and update on here as things happen cheers guys thanks for reading now onto the good stuff ! (Flood of random pics up till this point including a little gem shot of my first k swap from a few years back ) 😎
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Discussion Starter #2
as she sits currently 🙄 subframe dropped, awaiting a couple more parts including the swap mounts and doing some of the fuel system before I get to installing the integra subframe
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Bay looks OK.. I did the headlight harness tuck over last winter but the paint is nothing to be proud of. Eventually the whole car will need a respray but for now I’m going to work with what I have and focus on getting the car k series and on the road
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Clearly I’m bored. Love this fuel rail especially being my home state 🌲
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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...I may just order a jdm k24a and then start building the type s head down the road...
Thanks for starting your own build thread KBuilt! I really appreciate it, I know it make some work here instead of other social media platforms, but here it get documented right for others and not lost in data nirvana :D.

I hope you can source a K24 block to make your Frankenstein route complete. Do you keep it on bolts on level or are you planing to forge and increase CR? I would be happy to get some information's and discussions on that if you like.

Markus
 

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Thanks for starting your own build thread KBuilt! I really appreciate it, I know it make some work here instead of other social media platforms, but here it get documented right for others and not lost in data nirvana :D.

I hope you can source a K24 block to make your Frankenstein route complete. Do you keep it on bolts on level or are you planing to forge and increase CR? I would be happy to get some information's and discussions on that if you like.

Markus
Thanks markus! I’ve actually read quite a lot of your input on the forum I’ve been just a reader for awhile. I don’t utilize Facebook or instagram etc. I watch some builds on YouTube but this will be my only outlet for sharing my personal project. As for the B18c yes I had problems with the distributor so I used oem k series coil packs along with a BTO conversion harness I ordered from Poland. Made the system plug and play directly where the oil coil was.
 

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BTW, did you swap a electronic ignition system on your B18 engine?
As for the shortblock my budget would prefer oem internals. It’s $900 shipped for a jdm k24a tsx spec so I may go that route and save the prb head for upgrades later on porting valvetrain cams etc. plan would be to use the 50 vtc and the z1 intake cam on the tsx motor I’ve seen you suggest limiting vtc to 45 on oem longblock is that correct ?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...As for the B18c yes I had problems with the distributor so I used oem k series coil packs along with a BTO conversion harness I ordered from Poland. Made the system plug and play directly where the oil coil was.
Wow, that's an very interesting hint. I was planing on a B16 based race engine, spec'd to 270 hp, but skipped that for some reason. A electronic ignition system would have made a good job on that. Now we will go on with an VAG EA827 basis, TFSI head...thanks for your hint!
 

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Wow, that's an very interesting hint. I was planing on a B16 based race engine, spec'd to 270 hp, but skipped that for some reason. A electronic ignition system would have made a good job on that. Now we will go on with an VAG EA827 basis, TFSI head...thanks for your hint!
Ya on pump gas 91/93 it won’t make much difference in power more a reliability factor but with e85 and race fuels it’s supposed to give a lot more spark control. I don’t fully understand it to be honest I just knew it was better than a 25 year old ignition coil 😂
 

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Wow, that's an very interesting hint. I was planing on a B16 based race engine, spec'd to 270 hp, but skipped that for some reason. A electronic ignition system would have made a good job on that. Now we will go on with an VAG EA827 basis, TFSI head...thanks for your hint!
270 hp from a b16 still keeping the 81 bore and is it 87 mm crank ? That would be very impressive I’m assuming very high rpm
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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As for the shortblock my budget would prefer oem internals. It’s $900 shipped for a jdm k24a tsx spec so I may go that route and save the prb head for upgrades later on porting valvetrain cams etc. plan would be to use the 50 vtc and the z1 intake cam on the tsx motor I’ve seen you suggest limiting vtc to 45 on oem longblock is that correct ?
Very interesting, so it will be an OEM longblock mix, a real Frankenstein engine :D.

Regarding the valve to piston distance, yes the K20Z1 intake cam have a longer duration in comparison to the K24A2 intake cam. Centerline of the intake cam is therefore "retarded", means when you put it on the TSX-block-piston, which has smaller height valve pockets, combination the distance is very small at 50°. I would limit it to 45°. Depending on your header your engine will like 50° or less. My last Frankenstein I've tuned was hungry for max. VTC up to 6000 rpm, the previous before that just liked 42° VTC up to 5500 rpm. Similar intakes, but different headers and exhaust.
 

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Very interesting, so it will be an OEM longblock mix, a real Frankenstein engine :D.

Regarding the valve to piston distance, yes the K20Z1 intake cam have a longer duration in comparison to the K24A2 intake cam. Centerline of the intake cam is therefore "retarded", means when you put it on the TSX-block-piston, which has smaller height valve pockets, combination the distance is very small at 50°. I would limit it to 45°. Depending on your header your engine will like 50° or less. My last Frankenstein I've tuned was hungry for max. VTC up to 6000 rpm, the previous before that just liked 42° VTC up to 5500 rpm. Similar intakes, but different headers and exhaust.
Right on that is some good info thankyou! I more than likely will use a tri-y design with a 3” outlet for the header but will settle for a 2.5 if I need to. I would like the exhaust system to be true 3” all the way back with a vibrant muffler. My last k swap was setup that way and I loved the sound 💯
 

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Very interesting, so it will be an OEM longblock mix, a real Frankenstein engine :D.

Regarding the valve to piston distance, yes the K20Z1 intake cam have a longer duration in comparison to the K24A2 intake cam. Centerline of the intake cam is therefore "retarded", means when you put it on the TSX-block-piston, which has smaller height valve pockets, combination the distance is very small at 50°. I would limit it to 45°. Depending on your header your engine will like 50° or less. My last Frankenstein I've tuned was hungry for max. VTC up to 6000 rpm, the previous before that just liked 42° VTC up to 5500 rpm. Similar intakes, but different headers and exhaust.
I keep reading the z1 intake cam is “almost” a dc5 type r cam and the cylinder head came complete with everything so I figure I might as well put the intake cam to use and saves me swapping the vtc gear 🙄😂.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I keep reading the z1 intake cam is “almost” a dc5 type r cam and the cylinder head came complete with everything so I figure I might as well put the intake cam to use and saves me swapping the vtc gear 🙄😂.
Yes if you have an K20Z1 head, you can put all together on that block. Just keep in mind to use the Z-type head gasket for the right water passages as well as the different water routings of the Z-type head. The Z1 head has a 50° VTC gear and yes the cams are the 3rd revision of the ITR cams: 1411(2)0-PRC-030 (brackets for exhaust cam). I have valve lift data of both and they differ only in the centerline on intake cam by a few degrees.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Right on that is some good info thankyou! I more than likely will use a tri-y design with a 3” outlet for the header but will settle for a 2.5 if I need to. I would like the exhaust system to be true 3” all the way back with a vibrant muffler. My last k swap was setup that way and I loved the sound 💯
I am not sure if they still sell it, but Jackson Racing offered a decent 4-2-1 header for the 86x86 engine, which does still a very good job on the franken 87x99 engine too, especially if it is not highly modified. I am not good in the aftermarket stuff as I concentrate on my own designs. Every engine get's it's own header, depending on application, displacement and torque curve specification. If you like and you give me the measurement data of an aftermarket header (lengths, diameters), I can tell you after some validation if this can support your goal.
 

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Yes if you have an K20Z1 head, you can put all together on that block. Just keep in mind to use the Z-type head gasket for the right water passages as well as the different water routings of the Z-type head. The Z1 head has a 50° VTC gear and yes the cams are the 3rd revision of the ITR cams: 1411(2)0-PRC-030 (brackets for exhaust cam). I have valve lift data of both and they differ only in the centerline on intake cam by a few degrees.
Man you are like a library lol I appreciate the knowledge and insight. Glad I came across the head complete. If I could source a good 2.0 or 2.4 block local I would go with either but ordering the complete jdm motor is looking like the best option I’ve already landed myself one bad block I want something with a warranty and guarantee behind it this time
 

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I am not sure if they still sell it, but Jackson Racing offered a decent 4-2-1 header for the 86x86 engine, which does still a very good job on the franken 87x99 engine too, especially if it is not highly modified. I am not good in the aftermarket stuff as I concentrate on my own designs. Every engine get's it's own header, depending on application, displacement and torque curve specification. If you like and you give me the measurement data of an aftermarket header (lengths, diameters), I can tell you after some validation if this can support your goal.
I believe the runners are 1 7/8” on the ones I’m looking at I’m not sure if they step into larger sections before reaching the back collector but everything I’ve read points to that runner size performing well
 
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