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Discussion Starter · #381 ·
He sold/stopped the RSP plenum project if I remember correctly, but yeah, how about the stuff you were doing in the engine bay?

Thanks for the update, I was worried you had moved on to greener pastures. I only ever really come back here to see if there are updates to this build.
So I'm waiting to finish up the engine bay ducting until I finalize what hood I'm going to run. At this time it's not a priority.

As far as greener pastures, I'm focused on saving for my retirement and buying some acreage. Building this civic is the most affordable way to satisfy my need to modify something.:D. I wouldn't mind a clean 2.8L 911 SC though...pretty affordable and pretty fun.
Looks good. I was watching something about fabricating carbon fiber tubes for intake manifold runners the other day. I liked the technique because the end result produced a consistent weave pattern along the curved and tapered tube.
I would love to see the technique if you have a link to share. I have come up with a pretty easy way to build complex tubes with foam shaped around guides (usually circles I cut out of thin plastic). The guides serve as a reference line while I'm sanding so I keep the cylinder shape. The plastic is much more resistant to sanding than the foam.

Once I have the shape I'm looking for, and after multiple test fitments, then I wrap it in electrical tape. The electrical tape serves as a perfect barrier to the epoxy and carbon fiber (epoxy doesn't stick to the electrical tape). Once the epoxy sets, I pour acetone into the the end and it eats all the foam. I poke holes into the plastic along the way so the acetone can pass into each section. Once the foam is dissolved, then I simply pull out all the electrical tape and voila...a super light weight tube.

Honestly, I see all the work people put into the titanium pie cut intakes and the carbon fiber method I use seems so much easier and lighter weight.

Down the line, if I go Rotrex, I will fabricate all the induction tubing out of carbon fiber.

I really miss the forums because all this explanation is lost on social media. People don't care they just want to see a pretty picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #382 ·
i like push button below badge, but if you can mock it up a bit better with a fuller view and with the boot and such it would be easier to tell.
Steve, you've lived with the 8th civic interior much longer than I have...what do you think of that console piece I posted? You think it would get in the way of the shifter?
 

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I would love to see the technique if you have a link to share. I have come up with a pretty easy way to build complex tubes with foam shaped around guides (usually circles I cut out of thin plastic). The guides serve as a reference line while I'm sanding so I keep the cylinder shape. The plastic is much more resistant to sanding than the foam.

Once I have the shape I'm looking for, and after multiple test fitments, then I wrap it in electrical tape. The electrical tape serves as a perfect barrier to the epoxy and carbon fiber (epoxy doesn't stick to the electrical tape). Once the epoxy sets, I pour acetone into the the end and it eats all the foam. I poke holes into the plastic along the way so the acetone can pass into each section. Once the foam is dissolved, then I simply pull out all the electrical tape and voila...a super light weight tube.
This technique is a bit more involved. It uses a die and an inflatable bladder and you would need to use a cf sleeve, but the results are killer.

It's at 10:20 in this video.

 

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Discussion Starter · #384 ·
Awesome video. They make construction seem so easy anybody could do it...yet each step involves a mastery of technique.

That technique for constructing cf tubes is definitely complex. I've seen people on the fiberglass forums labor for years trying to perfect the bladder technique.
 

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Steve, you've lived with the 8th civic interior much longer than I have...what do you think of that console piece I posted? You think it would get in the way of the shifter?
you talking about your addition below the radio for the tpms monitor?

probably not...but i guess it depends on the combination of shifter, knobber, and fat hands/grip. if you are running the factory shifter with longer throw, combined with a fatter knob like the mugen sphere posted AND have fat man hands and hold it a certain way, i could see how you may end up punching it....but with the design you have where it looks somewhat curved and recessed and maybe if you thread the knob down to sit a bit lower i think it would be fine. mock it up. i doubt you'll have any issues, but in an extreme set of circumstances outlined above i can see how you could potentially make contact with it.
 

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Awesome video. They make construction seem so easy anybody could do it...yet each step involves a mastery of technique.



That technique for constructing cf tubes is definitely complex. I've seen people on the fiberglass forums labor for years trying to perfect the bladder technique.

They definitely make it look a lot easier than I would assume it is. I'm sure it is great for production, but it's completely impractical for making prototype parts like you are. I liked the technique and thought it may offer some use to share.
 

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Discussion Starter · #390 · (Edited)
Went back to the Salon to grab some more pics of the details of the Lexus RCF GT3.

This is the other car with the 2x2 twill and has some minor differences compared to the car above.

Zooming in on the exhaust and huge gaping fender:


The dive planes on this car were a one piece affair:


As opposed to the other race car which used 2 different dive plans individually attached by rivets and epoxy:


A look in front of the tire showing how the diffuser feeds the wheel well:


And a look behind the tire showing how the exhaust empties into the fender:


Mysterious black areas...guessing reinforcement of some type. There are also various areas of black "scuff" marks across the two cars that I can't figure out.




A look at the fender and exhaust:


With flash:


Attachments for the fender louvers:






The ass of the two cars is slightly different:


 

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Discussion Starter · #391 ·
I also took some detailed pics of the carbon bodied NSX GT3 race car.
m





Interestingly the fender duct is blanked off on the race car:




Fender fastener:


The deck lid has an overhang that is not present on the street car:
 

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That looks awesome! I'm going to have to add the Tokyo Motor Show to my Bucket list.


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #394 ·
*crosses fingers and hopes this car hasn't been sold* :scared:
I can reassure you it hasn't been sold. Fortunately, I'm in a position where I won't ever need to sell it.

I am going to modify the front radiator duct soon. Then I just need to top off the fluids and get it tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #396 ·
Update on the radiator duct. I decided to change the angle of the radiator (i.e. More forward tilting @ ~60 degrees). This required that I remake all the coolant hoses...and this time I decided to switch from braided AN to rubber with push lock fittings.

A comparison between the traditional fittings (upper left) and the push-lock fittings (upper right). The traditional fittings are heavier and a major PITFA to put on. They require special aluminum AN wrenches, a vice, and protective pads for the vice. The push-lock can be assembled very simply by hand.


And a comparison of the finished product. This 90 degree hose connects to the k-tuned upper coolant housing and radiator fill neck.


I could've taken the easy route and simply deleted the OEM crash beam. But, this is a weekend warrior street car and I have a family that depends on me for food on the table. Life > death.

In this pic in order (from lower left to upper right) is the bumper cover, crash beam, carbon fiber radiator duct, and CSF radiator.


The hardest part of the entire project was the impossibly tight clearance between the k-tuned swivel neck thermostat and the lower bung of my CSF radiator. The final solution was to hack up the OEM lower radiator hose. This was a major psychological hurdle to complete and now it's finally done!
In this pic you can also see the 4 lb racing alternator and the custom wiring...it looks OEM.


Everything bolts up perfect and is super stealthy. You can also see the Mugen lip which will get painted soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #398 ·
Always happy to see an update. This thread is the only reason I come here anymore.
THanks buddy!

Just for fun, I skinned my circuit hero coil pack cover in carbon fiber.




I also put in a ton of work shaving the wind deflector panel thingy...




This comparison pic really shows off the changes. All the holes and bumps were filled and shaved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #399 ·
It's been a while since I've posted an update on the bumper duct block offs. The purpose of these should be obvious, but for those that may not appreciate the benefit...the bumper cut outs impose an aerodynamic penalty. They serve no purpose other than looking cool and let alot of air pass into the engine bay which contributes to drag and front end lift.

I really like the way the JDM bumper looks, so I wanted to keep the overall style but improve the aerodynamics.

I am really happy with how these turned out. I went with the "wasp" carbon fiber weave to mimic the look of the grill slats:




In these pics, the small gap is because they weren't fully seated and clipped/screwed in:


If you weren't looking for them they would be easily missed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #400 · (Edited)
I'm waiting on my Mugen lip to come back from paint, but I went ahead and bought some aero.









I like the splitter and canard placement on the Feel's FD2 and I'm planning on something similar...probably going to get the Top 1 splitter to complete the look.



 
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