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Discussion Starter #1
Some of you might remember my first build, k20/k24 turbo in my old white EM2. That car was parted out 2 years ago now and I decided to buy streetbikes instead. Well 6.5 weeks ago I hit some gravel in a turn on my 09 ZX10 and ended up in the ditch taking a gymnastics class, needless to say I am no good at cart-wheels haha I have 3 broken bones in my foot one being the "Talus" bone which is a pretty bad injury. Luckily that's all that happened considering when I crashed I somehow managed to avoid a culvert and 2 telephone poles.

To make a long story short this accident woke me up a bit and now now I'm getting back into the car game again.

My team put this car together right around the time I parted out my EM2 and its just been a dust collector since. The car did leave the shop once since its been put together and it was to a Sport Compact event at a local drag strip. At the time we had geared the car up to work with a DBW setup. With lots of lag and the car not allowing to rev high for a launch the car made a 13.20 @107 pass was its best of the weekend.

This is my old EM2:






This here is the J











There isn't many pictures of the car or even during the build but that's a few. Here is a list of the parts on the car/ones that need to be installed:


J32a3 engine
04 Accord transmission
Hasport adjustable mounts
All In Fab Tucked Radiator
Longtube Headers
Custom J pipe
Chasebays Milspec Wiring harness (Not installed)
AEM Standalone (Not Installed)
Skunk2 Megapower R exhaust
Odyssey Cable TB

CTR 5lug swap
BWR Purple LCA's
BWR Purple rear subframe brace
BWR Purple tow hook (Getting removed lol)
Skunk2 Sport Struts
Skunk2 Springs

JDM Domani Headlights
JDM Domani Grille
OEM CTR Wing
EDM VTi Front Lip
Chargespeed Carbon Fibre Sideskirts
Chargespeed Rear Lip

OEM CTR Carpet
Custom Roll cage
Rare CRV 5 Speed Cluster


That pretty much sums up the mods list, I still have to put a few things back together interior wise, Install the cable TB and milspec harness. It will be slow in here for a bit because I am still not able to walk on my foot but I am hoping to have the car at another local Sport Compact Event on August 22, providing my foot is healed up enough to drive!

Any advice is welcome, Im sill pretty new to the whole J series thing



 

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Sorry about your accident man, but glad you are ok!

Nice to see another J build. Do you have an intake? If so, how large? I'd suggest either a 3.5" or 4" paired with a velocity stack. 3.7 Intake manifold and larger throttle body are also great mods. If you are really serious about the car and want to stay all motor, the AASCO LW fly & 3.8 Final Drive from TB Motorworx is a must. Easily the best mod I've done to date (and I have every bolt on). Good luck with the build!

How involved is converting the J32a3 to cable? I wonder if the car would run any faster just from the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry about your accident man, but glad you are ok!

Nice to see another J build. Do you have an intake? If so, how large? I'd suggest either a 3.5" or 4" paired with a velocity stack. 3.7 Intake manifold and larger throttle body are also great mods. If you are really serious about the car and want to stay all motor, the AASCO LW fly & 3.8 Final Drive from TB Motorworx is a must. Easily the best mod I've done to date (and I have every bolt on). Good luck with the build!

How involved is converting the J32a3 to cable? I wonder if the car would run any faster just from the switch.
Right now the car is semi torn apart, I am unsure if I want to keep it all motor or not, might try out nitrous and see how that goes. I have all the lines for the nitrous setup would just have to gather up the rest. But chances are in the future I will make some manifolds and boost the car, or run a pro charger on the car.

As far as the cable TB goes, and seeing how the car was working with the DBW setup, I think once its converted and actually tuned not just running on a stock ecu and can actually launch the car at higher rpm that it will be in the 12's easy. There was lots of delay in the throttle with the DBW setup so we will see.

Right now I am just anxious to drive it so I want to get it running again just with an odyssey tb that I have hook up the harness and get it tuned, if there is time before the event I might try and plumb it for nitrous but im worried once I do plumb the intke manifold I wont be able to close the hood anymore
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got some progress done to the car thanks to some good friends helping me out while my foot is broken!

Went a picked up the car from my buddys shop so we can get to work on it while hes way working

Can't wait to clean almost 3 years of dust off of this thing






Picked up a parts car so I could get all the plastics and clips that were missing etc. And a couple friends put the plastics all back in for me ( Yes the cage will be painted in the near future )





Pluggin' holes.. excuse the dirt on the car haha



Some Chase Bays Millspec goodess



And a couple dirty unfinished engine bay shots







I am still no expert on J series, I have been doing some research on them but I cant find nearly as much info as I need.

Was just wondering if the intake manifolds have codes on them like K series with the PRB, RBC etc.. I have 2 manifolds and im told one is a J37 manifold but they look the same too me, the code stickers are non existent so I am at a loss. Any info on that would be great thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Quite a few updates here actually,

Had the car almost fully assembled and ready to plug in the AEM when I realized that I was missing a part of the Chase Bays harness.



Unfortunately the harness didn't come in time for me to get the car tuned before a local drag event so with the help of a few friends we switched it back over to the DBW setup and stock ecu so I could take it racing for the weekend.

Finished it on Friday night just in time to leave early in the AM to go racing.





The best pass of the weekend for the car was a 12.90 @105, using 24.5x8x15 slicks with no preload, launching from the stock 6900 rev limiter. The track wasn't prepped very well, was over 30*C outside, and I still had a broken foot for this event so I thought I did fairly well for it being my first time in the car ever.



Here is a few pictures from that weekend.











Then Shortly after that event I started prepping the car for the next event, still having a broken foot I wasn't street driving the car.





So i started stripping the car, getting ready to delete some sound deadening and paint the inside of the car.



I scraped up some of the sound deadening in the back half of the car and sprayed it with some bed liner





Also the guy who painted this car made an absolute mess and painted the car with the rear lip on, so it was un-painted underneath, so i decided to make a rear bumper diffuser for it and trim the un painted part off.

Well between trying to get my car ready and working on a close friends 99mm k series all motor car i didn't have time to finish the diffuser so i ended up only getting the holes drilled in the bumper for now



So I got my car as ready for the last local race event as much as I could before my ride showed up.. So we loaded up my car and the 99mm car and headed to the track



Got the cars unloaded and slicks on





Stuck a velocity stack out of the headlight



After battling an entire day of broken axels I finally managed to squeeze out a clean pass, 12.75 @107 still stock ecu and dbw setup and there was actually some traction compound down this time.



After the day was over and the axel count was 4, we realized the rear engine mount bracket was bent and the bottom bolt was missing and pulled away from the block, the motor is almost 2" too far towards the firewall, I don't even know how the car made the clean pass with a broken rear mount but atleast it happened at the last event.

The car is done for the season now and im building a SFWD car out of it now that the winter is here. Hoping to have it done for next season, will be lots of updates here over the winter for sure!

Big thanks to all of the people who helped me out with the car while being on crutches and in casts all summer! And an extra big thanks to my team HCRacing for making this happen for me this summer, couldn't be more thankful. Learned a lot and got lots of seat time at the track and cant wait to come back boosted and ready next year!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If anyone has any info on the J series SFWD rules or could point me in the direction to find them, it would be greatly appreciated! :new_slayer:
 

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http://www.importvsdomestic.com/rulebook/
True Street class rules there on a PDF file for World Cup Finals in 2 weeks

Sport FWD*
For 4 & 6 cylinder Import/Sport Compacts. "SFWD Trim”. Must have 2 front seats & interior panels. No rear seats – OK. Open exhaust, 3 piece fronts, & fuel cell – OK. NO gutted-out cars, lexan, water to air intercoolers or 1 piece front ends. Max Tire 25 x 9.0. 72mm maximum inducer turbo size (Max 102mm exd-billet, 105mm exd-cast. Up to 67mm exd 94mm). Up to 2 Power adders allowed (combo OK). Minimum weights: 67mm and smaller – 2200lbs. Up to 72mm – 2400lbs .400 Pro Tree, 16 car - Pro Ladder. 16 cars required for full payout.

Full class rules: https://www.facebook.com/notes/ortega-global-solutions-ogs/2013-ogs-sfwd-class-rules/425935697494731
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How is your ground clearence?
There is 2" there for sure, between my oil pan and the ground. I never actually measured it before, but as per SFWD rules you need 3" as your lowest point if im not mistaken?
 

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Don't know what I'm doing right yet, unibody is bent up where the engine mount bolts on I think,unless I have to shave some metal off of the frame rail to make it fit
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't know what I'm doing right yet, unibody is bent up where the engine mount bolts on I think,unless I have to shave some metal off of the frame rail to make it fit
You shouldn't have too, text me some pics of what it is your talking about.
 
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