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Is this crank pulley bad?

1351 Views 66 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Hndakd
I have k24a2. Just got it fired and running. I noticed the crank pulley wobbling while it was idling. I have a video of it and have attached a pic.


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Bolt is tight. I believe the rubber is just bad. It appears to have cracks in it. Here's another pic.


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That's how I got it. I haven't touched it. I noticed it because I swapped out the belt tensioner from the manual adjusted to ep3 with auto tensioner. I also have the same deal as most with the indicator being off on the tensioner. The belt looks straight when it's on all the other pulleys.
Just to update this.

1 buy the lisle 19mm socket. 3 sec with my shitty impact and blew right off.

2 pulley is damaged waiting new parts tomorrow. Pic for reference


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I hope it's not the crank either. Oil isn't glittery so at least there's that. What cover are you referencing? The timing chain cover? The picture is just a bad angle. The bolt is centered. I was trying to get the whole pulley and the fender was in the way.

I have a new pulley just haven't put it on yet. What belt are you talking about? I have ktuned ep3 adjustable with factory tensioner. I have been struggling to get that box in spec. Move it one way and I can't get the belt on at all move it the other way and it's not in the box.

Also, the rubber on the pulley is definitely messed up. From the front could see the cracking, but on the back the chunk is missing and when I pressed on it with my fingers the rubber is separating from the outer ring.
Ahh ok. Yeah I'm certain the front seal is leaking. I am doing all this myself and unfamiliar with kseries.. I picked this car up as is and have been fixing all the stuff from previous owner. Some one else's project. So there's that.

It used to have a generic ps/ac delete belt on it. Was tearing up belts, which I now suspect was from the harmonic balancer wobbling. Since the pulley is out now I will change the front seal and hopefully all this is fixed. Should I just go oem for the seal or is felpro from autozone decent?
Perfect. I'll go to acura tomorrow, got a couple buddies there anyways.

Car is an ek with k24a2.

I already have a brand new oem balancer, key, and bolt. I'll do the seal before I put it all back together.

Thanks for the help!!!
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Lol I called my buddy at acura and he ordered it for me.

I bought the car with the ac/ps delete on there. I drove it for the trip back... it wasn't that fun. On the way home I shredded a belt. So I parked it. Most of the engine harness was not installed correctly and honestly I am surprised it ran.

I ended up chasing wires for days. In that process I cleaned up everything I could to the best of my abilities, and honestly I'm quite satisfied. No longer have any cel and all the gauges work as intended. Car will start and idle no problem now. Just finishing up some cleanliness in the dashboard.

When I got i, the guy through in a bunch of intake manifolds so I have an rbc I'm going to put on it along with a 45° vtc I have as well. It also has 3in exhaust and ktuned header. I have also added an acuity shifter. Which is awesome. I have what I believe to be a ktuned shifter clone and it wasn't great.

It's nothing to brag about in its current state but I'm hopeful that I can get it back up to fighting for in the next couple of weeks because I have tuning on april 6th.... nothing like a little pressure. I'm waiting on hybrid to send out a radiator because the one I have is cracked.. unfortunately the half size is out of stock so I'm stuck in limbo.
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Welp. I got new pulley installed. Runs like a top. No wobble at all.

Unfortunately I have come across another problem. When I did this fix I also installed rbc manifold. The car will fire up and then stumble and sound like it's missing. It will take a little throttle but I'm scared to give it to much because of the stumbling. I have checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. The idle doesn't ramp up or down or anything. Car just chugs... bad. I checked my throttle body adapter, and removed the brake booster line and as soon as I do that the rpm will jump up to about 1200 or so. I also noticed that my wide band will start to read "lean" if the car runs for a couple of mins. It's a plx gauge. Idk what I need to do to trouble shoot this.

To add to the confusion here, I believe the injectors are from an srt4. They are pink. Before I swapped the manifold out the car would idle at 900 and was extremely responsive of idle and would settle out perfectly. When I pit everything back together I noticed the injectors would go back down in the holes like they were in the other manifold.. makes me think that it's just not getting fuel down there. Any help is definitely appreciated.
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Here are some pictures.


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Yeah injectors weren't seated in that pic I pulled them out to assess. I reassembled and got to idle.. badly again and then began pulling the injector clips. 2 of the 4 had now change. I then disconnected them completely from the rail and still no go. Volt meter says they are getting a signal. I think the injectors are trash.

I am running a check valve on the brake booster. The balancer runs dead nuts true. It's not that.

I ordered some rsx injectors and pigtails. I spoke with local tuner and he recommended those based on other mods. I think the injectors that are in there are from an srt4... either way new ones are on the way. I think something with the two injectors just went bad... waiting on more parts.
No worries. It's hard to get inflection from some random yahoo on the internet. I wasn't meaning anything by anything, and didn't take any offense to anything you have said. It's all good. Just want to get it running again lol.

When I picked the car up I knew it was a project. This one has had several challenges but I keep muddling through.

I have RDX injectors not mdx. These are 410cc. I have a set of cams that I haven't been able to id I believe they are out of a 2007-2008 tsx. I haven't installed them yet because I need to change the vtc, and more importantly I don't know what they are.

I saw in kpro there's a couple of basemaps that have injector parameters. I have talked with tuner and he has told me we get closer to date he can mess with the map a little so I have better drive ability to at least get up there.
I know the block I have is an 04. I thought the biggest difference was more aggressive cams and relief in the piston? Is the clearance that bad with the 04-05? I have a modded 45 degree vtc now. I grab some pics of the cams that I have asap.

I'm good at muddling, I will continue. If one of us getting entertainment then at least there's that. In the in-between time, I'll get these fenders fitted lol.
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Lol I'm a diabetic so no candy.ill definitely hang out though ha ha ha ha.

On to today's events. Maybe I just post here for build...anyways

I installed new injectors. No change. So, I began to trace wires thinking maybe I messed up somewhere. This. Is. Dumb. I went to the ecu to trace and come to find out one of the plugs was half way out. So, plugged that in and boom!!!! Idle out perfect no problems at all. I couldn't believe I was that dumb. I'm glad it was something dumb and easy.... I need to get a little break here. I'm making foolish mistakes because of the pressure to get it tuned.

I'm still waiting on radiator which should be here sometime before Fri.

I haven't pulled the valve cover again to verify cams. At this point even though I'll have to go again I want to drive this thing!!! So I'm going to hold on cams and check them out when I install the vtc. My buddy is telling me he has some drag cartel cams idk anything about cam selection for this car so I'm open. To suggestions.
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Welp. Got it all buttoned up. New radiator in. Bleeding was a chore for sure. I had relocated the temp sensor for the gauge to the rbc top port. That actually helped because I was able to warm the car up and then crack that sensor and get most of the air out. The lisle funnel I have want able to get all the bubbles out. So I squeezed the pipes and cracked that sensor. Ect reports 198 at idle and stays there. Let it run for over 30 min. So I have my fingers crossed that it's good now.

I did drive it. Which was definitely rewarding. Except... 2nd, 4th, and 6th all have problems.

When I first got the car the input shaft bearing was going out. I had that replaced and drove it home. On the way home I noticed that 6th sounded like a super charger whine under load. Like 2k at 60ish mph. No pop outs or anything drove smooth. I haven't touched anything on the transmission. Now under normal driving 2nd comes out and 4th pops out. It goes in smooth but pops as soon as you touch the gas. Not a hammer down thing, like normal cruising. I'm extremely frustrated now. Idk what could be causing this, especially after all the work that was just done to the trans.

And.. I noticed that my brake booster check valve is cracked and leaking a bit. Brand new lol... awesome.
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Lol I have hit a wall. Frustrated to say the least. I'm ok with the broken/repairing of stuff. Just under the gun for tuning. I have tried to release myself from that commitment. If it works out ok. If not welp, I'll do something else.

The transmission is going to be looked at when I get the alignment. Idk what is up with it.. although I have a new discovery. 1, the stupid hybrid thermostat housing leaks. It's literally a drop over night but it is annoying. 2, the slave cylinder is leaking. I noticed it when I was looking for coolant leak. I ordered a new one. I'm hopeful that fixes my problem. I had already bled the system with my daughters help. That made it much better. No pop outs. I had to roll the fenders and took it around the block and it started doing the popping again and I noticed significant amount of juice around the boot.

When I had the bearings replaced in the trans, I went down there and looked at it all opened up. Unfortunately I didn't take pics. There was some small wear on one synchro I don't know which one it was. At the time my thought was it ain't broke and shifts fine except for the whirling noise. I also have a small crack in the housing near the front bolt that doesn't go anywhere. Also, I had to put a helicoil in one bolt for the mount. Ultimately I'm on the look out for a 6 speed with lsd to swap in it. K20z I think idk but whatever came in the civic si.

The brake booster leak is weird. I used some braided line I had laying around to be fancy and for some reason the only side of the fitting that leaks is around the check valve. I can move the tube around and fix it. So I might just snip the end and try again. When I get the leak gone, the car is a little "chuggy" at 600 rpms. It perks right up when you give it gas but it doesn't like being that low. It needs tuning....

I'm hopeful to be motivated to post the vtc in some time this week. I need a break lol.

Here's some engine pics for prosperity.. and the thermostat leak


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Lol, I only got so many hands. Any more with them driving now I'll take what time I can get with them. Even if they don't like it. I don't know if they are harder than boys lol. They definitely tell me where to stick it ha.

In my defense of the clutch.. I just had no idea. I had to take it out because it's been up on jacks for awhile now. The shop said something about the wear. I looked at it, and while it was there it was on 2 teeth of the synchro and not an immediate fix that in my mind because I didn't want to drop 800 more bucks at the time, with the understanding that all this coming out for paint. I think that the slave is what's messing it up, if not making all of it worse.

Man... I really don't want to take all the cooling stuff apart again. That was an absolute bitch to get bled. I would have stuck a hose in it to flush it but the weather has been going from 70 to 14. Didn't want a bunch of ice everywhere.

Blind hole... lol yeah I know that. I'm a machinist by trade. I also have brain damage I get stuff mixed up.

Thanks for noticing the wires. Nobody around my house cares lol. I cleaned that up a bit but the real kicker was under the dash. Wow, that was a lot. I burned up 2 batteries on my volt gauge tracing stuff. Only thing I haven't gotten working as far as oem is concerned is the abs. The wires were cut and there is a poor man's type r setup on the front. I haven't messed with it yet because it works. The car stops. It will lock the tires up.

I looked around for the idle screw.. I didn't see any adjustments on it. I have several throttle bodies. I believe, that the idle is funky because the weather is a bit cold and I haven't hooked up the iacv. I'm going to just gotta find the right pipe that runs under the manifold. A different one came with the car and when I went to the junk yard awhile ago I pulled another. None of them really line up right.

I have sent hybrid an email. The other thermostat I had in there didn't leak.. there. I'm hopeful it's an o ring... idk hopefully tomorrow I get the slave and I'll put that in.

And some more progress pics.


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Kinda slow at work lol.

800 for the set of syncros. They wouldn't touch the trans if I pulled it out of the car. I had them replace all of the bearings in it and leave the syncros alone. The trans shifted fine smooth no pop outs or grinds before the work was done. I drove it home the day it was completed and heard a weird supercharger noise in 6th on the highway. I have not touched anything at all on the trans after the fix.

As you said, one at a time. I know the slave is leaking. I am supposed to get that today so maybe I'll get that installed later

The tires on the car are brand new. I replaced them the day I bought it so I could get home.

Paint... story time. My really good friend is a paint amd body guy. He has offered to paint my "next" car at cost. I had a crx years ago now that was totalled. I built the car after my mom died and had a really hard time. Poured a lot into that one. Once again, I'm dealing with some stuff so I build another car lol. Sorry if that's a bit heavy ha.

Plan is still to get the car running and driving for summer time and then tear it all apart and paint it over the winter. This car was a difficult find. There hasn't been much around here that isn't crazy expensive or rusted out.

What's wrong with the headlights? They are brand new. I left the plastic on them so I would scratch them up when I was fitting the fenders.... my wife said the same thing about the "weird lines"
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Oops. Hit reply to quick.

The clutch is oem, throw out bearing and clutch fork are new.

Go to stock shifter..... no way. I love that thing best mod I did. Makes me feel like it's a race car ha ha ha ha.
Ok ok.

I'm not with holding anything lol.

I don't know what you mean when you say I don't know the car, and then I do.

I bought it in December. Umm, I took it apart. Put a lot of stuff back together and have been fixing the things I find as I go. Good backstop? Idk ask and I shall tell. No reason for me to hide anything. I appreciate the help!

It's going to shop that did work on trans because I do trust them. They are doing an alignment. That needs to happen, something is off and I don't know what it is.

So, I got new slave installed. It's much better!! Definitely drivable now. I did check oil in it. It's in there. Engine and trans. I took it around the block and had a slight buzz going in 4th and 6th. It did go into gear and stayed there though.

Before I put in the slave I started poking around the thermostat. I think I figured it out.. time will tell. I ended up loosening the bolts on the housing and cleaning everything and tightening it back up. After driving it around for 20min or so and hitting 190° there isn't a drop on ground. Hopefully something was just messing with the o rings idk. I'll take the win.

After 20 years... yes I do listen to my wife. It's easier for me at this point and she is pretty good at being right. I'm also done with puppies. Ignore my slop, I don't know what your talking about with the headlights.
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