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These are some results on a built k20 block with stock oem 86mm crank, aftermarket pistons, rods .



At this preliminary stage, I can tell you that IPS manifold is not used yet and the motor is not running the best possible piston and rod. However it is a very good starting point to show the benefit of the mark3 K2 cam profile when used with a "hot" 2 liter as we call it.

THis is an indepedent test so complete specs are not disclosed because testing is not finished.

300whp is a realistic goal as this time as you can see with the right parts, it is possible (on churches)
 

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oh gosh, thats amazing!! :wow:
 

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These are some results on a built k20 block with stock oem 86mm crank, aftermarket pistons, rods
that is a vague description of a "hot" 2 liter engine Nikos...what about bore? Compression? headwork? pump gas or E85? etc...missing many variables to be said is not the best way to show the potential of a product...
 

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that is a vague description of a "hot" 2 liter engine Nikos...what about bore? Compression? headwork? pump gas or E85? etc...missing many variables to be said is not the best way to show the potential of a product...
Consider it a movie trailer to a very good movie..........................
 

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:up: looking good for where it is currently at i wouldnt mind havin a setup liek this!:wow:
 

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interesting to say the least. :up:
 

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That's some nice results.

With the 2.0 manifold and mark III's 300whp dynojet on a k20 seems like a realistic goal..IPS FTMFW :up::up:
 

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To bad this is going to be another thread that gets a noob hopes up and make them think 300hp is so easy to make. I am not taking anything away from the results, just need to be stated that it is on churches dyno.

I have said it before and will say it again, dyno # don't mean crap, times and mph show really power. There are so many people claiming high hp # and not even trapping over 118mph(which is about a 275hp).

Yes this is a rant, but just tired of all these high hp dyno # and false hope for people.

Back on topic

Marc P
 

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To bad this is going to be another thread that gets a noob hopes up and make them think 300hp is so easy to make. I am not taking anything away from the results, just need to be stated that it is on churches dyno.

I have said it before and will say it again, dyno # don't mean crap, times and mph show really power. There are so many people claiming high hp # and not even trapping over 118mph(which is about a 275hp).

Yes this is a rant, but just tired of all these high hp dyno # and false hope for people.

Back on topic

Marc P
THIS IS THE TRUTH U SPEAK. FINALLY SOMEONE THAT KNOWS THERE THINGS.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To bad this is going to be another thread that gets a noob hopes up and make them think 300hp is so easy to make. I am not taking anything away from the results, just need to be stated that it is on churches dyno.

I have said it before and will say it again, dyno # don't mean crap, times and mph show really power. There are so many people claiming high hp # and not even trapping over 118mph(which is about a 275hp).

Yes this is a rant, but just tired of all these high hp dyno # and false hope for people.

Back on topic

Marc P
I 100% disagree with your statement. It is completely wrong in my opinion.

What is more reliable as a constant? A dyno machine or a car? Sure dynos around the country are different and read differently, even dynojets.. we know that already.

But you cannot sit here and tell me that you can judge a motor by the times and mph it will produce. What about driver skill? Track conditions? Tire size and condition> Gearing? Tune? Weight? Aero? Elevation? Weather conditions? Clutch being used? Are you serious?

So basically what you are saying is that you would buy a motor based on the times it has produced on a car rather than the numbers it made on a constant dyno that you have used in the past?

So when you were racing the ITB 54mm EG, you run 12.5 seconds.. So since people are posting stock k20a2 motors running 12.2, that means that a stock k20a2 is better than a 280whp k24a with ITBS.. makes sense now…


So it gives false hope ehh? lol Hope is such a bad thing..

300whp real dynojet is possible on a 2 liter, I have no doubt. The only question is who has the time and money to get it done and for what reason since the k24a can give out 300 easier with the bigger stroke and bigger displacement.

So please, don't tell me that times only matter. Everything matters.
 

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i see where you both are coming from Nikos but at the same time though, there are really no constants in determining and finding how much WHP and TQ you have because so many factors come into play on a dyno as well. Especially some of the things that you mentioned as well. Gearing, Tune, Weight, Elevation, Weather conditions. You know as well as everyone else that those play into dyno power as well. IMO, it's better to say "I pulled XXXwhp and XXXtq on this day"
 

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To bad this is going to be another thread that gets a noob hopes up and make them think 300hp is so easy to make. I am not taking anything away from the results, just need to be stated that it is on churches dyno.

I have said it before and will say it again, dyno # don't mean crap, times and mph show really power. There are so many people claiming high hp # and not even trapping over 118mph(which is about a 275hp).

Yes this is a rant, but just tired of all these high hp dyno # and false hope for people.

Back on topic

Marc P
Maybe I am blind but I coulda sworn I saw Nikos mention that results put forth were from Church's dyno. :rolleyes:

MAYBE ON A DYNOPAK NOT DYNOJET.
I specifically stated DYNOJET! I have seen 250+ on stock bore k20's with type r pistons and a set of cams. Bump the compression, address the induction issues and a bigger set of cams bringing u to 300 is not far fetched really. :up:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i see where you both are coming from Nikos but at the same time though, there are really no constants in determining and finding how much WHP and TQ you have because so many factors come into play on a dyno as well. Especially some of the things that you mentioned as well. Gearing, Tune, Weight, Elevation, Weather conditions. You know as well as everyone else that those play into dyno power as well. IMO, it's better to say "I pulled XXXwhp and XXXtq on this day"
That is why we ask for SAE correction that takes all this into account.

My point is.. if you have a certain dyno you keep using, that is a constant.

You dyno a motor and take it off the car. 2 years later, you put it back on, chances are, it is going to give you the same results.. That is for dynapacks and not for roller dynos like dynojet where tire pressure will pay a big roll as well
 
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