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Okay so Im having idle problems with the car where it’s going from 600 too 1000 rpm when idling , i believe my a/f ratio is low maybe that’s the problem ?? , maybe not enough fuel ?? But I don’t think so cuz i had it at like 40-50 psi on the fuel regulator what do you guys think ? I have a k20a2 swap all stock except a 3in HR cold air intake & of course kpro on a pnd ecu
 

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Is that one of the base maps that come with the KPro? That picture is a small sample size, but are you overheating/completely bled coolant? What is the radiator/fan setup? You shouldn’t be anywhere near 220F, even when it’s driven hard.

Your AF ratio is low, meaning it is running pig rich or you have an o2 sensor issue. After about 10-20 seconds (that’s on the very high side) your o2 should show a feedback reading (it will hang around the target lambda). 10.70 is what you’d see right when you start it up until the o2 heater heats the AF sensor up enough.

That injector duration is way too high, which would explain the AF being so high. At idle with 12v and stock injectors it would be a lot lower than 17ms. For example, the setup for an id1050 injector has the duration (ms) set at 1.16ms at 12v. I don’t even know any vehicle that would have an injector duration that high. That’s a high IAT temperature. Must be hot where you are, and you have a silicone intake…that temp is high. MAP shouldn’t be reading psi at idle…is your MAP sensor good? Is the TPS calibrated and reading properly in KPro?

You might want to upload a datalog, as some guys on the forum would use that to further diagnose your problems. But that screenshot shows a lot of the potential problems I threw out there.

The fuel pressure set at 50psi without vacuum applied is okay. There are issues with the map settings that need to be addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is that one of the base maps that come with the KPro? That picture is a small sample size, but are you overheating/completely bled coolant? What is the radiator/fan setup? You shouldn’t be anywhere near 220F, even when it’s driven hard.

Your AF ratio is low, meaning it is running pig rich or you have an o2 sensor issue. After about 10-20 seconds (that’s on the very high side) your o2 should show a feedback reading (it will hang around the target lambda). 10.70 is what you’d see right when you start it up until the o2 heater heats the AF sensor up enough.

That injector duration is way too high, which would explain the AF being so high. At idle with 12v and stock injectors it would be a lot lower than 17ms. For example, the setup for an id1050 injector has the duration (ms) set at 1.16ms at 12v. I don’t even know any vehicle that would have an injector duration that high. That’s a high IAT temperature. Must be hot where you are, and you have a silicone intake…that temp is high. MAP shouldn’t be reading psi at idle…is your MAP sensor good? Is the TPS calibrated and reading properly in KPro?

You might want to upload a datalog, as some guys on the forum would use that to further diagnose your problems. But that screenshot shows a lot of the potential problems I threw out there.

The fuel pressure set at 50psi without vacuum applied is okay. There are issues with the map settings that need to be addressed.
Okay first things first I believe I don’t have a temp sensor I believe that reading is wrong but idk I never really noticed that gauge until you pointed it out lol but as far as I know the engine should be completely stock , map sensor might not be good but no codes pop up so it should be good ? Also I’m still really new to all this so I’m not really sure if my tps is calibrated correctly, I’m pretty sure it is like 75% sure but I recently installed a wideband & planning on replacing idle air control cuz it was rusted to the max that’s what I thought was the problem but honestly still not sure but once I replace that sensor I wanna see how the car runs so I’ll give you an update on everything from kpro & how the car is still running in a few days from now 👍
 

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97 civic HX K24a
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View attachment 104363
Okay so Im having idle problems with the car where it’s going from 600 too 1000 rpm when idling , i believe my a/f ratio is low maybe that’s the problem ?? , maybe not enough fuel ?? But I don’t think so cuz i had it at like 40-50 psi on the fuel regulator what do you guys think ? I have a k20a2 swap all stock except a 3in HR cold air intake & of course kpro on a pnd ecu
220 is too warm , there’s air in your system still or you have a bad thermostat or water pump is what it looks like aside from stuff that probably needs cleaned up in the tune. Is your iacv plugged in under the throttle body and it could also need cleaned. But you definitely have a cooling issue.
 

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220 is too warm , there’s air in your system still or you have a bad thermostat or water pump is what it looks like aside from stuff that probably needs cleaned up in the tune. Is your iacv plugged in under the throttle body and it could also need cleaned. But you definitely have a cooling issue.
Also it looks like your o2 sensor isn’t reading or isn’t plugged in. 10.7 is the default when it has no value. Check the sensors tab when you turn key or engine on and see if the o2 gets voltage.
 

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Yes KBuilt, just looking at that screen, I can see why it’s sitting at 10.7:1, assuming the o2 isn’t dead. If it’s working, within 15 seconds after starting the o2 is heated up and should give him readings. But with the other issues on that screen, no wonder it’s not moving, again assuming the o2 is not dead. Injectors staying open 17.22ms? Is that even possible unless someone set it up that way?. That’s just dumping fuel into the cylinders. If our widebands could read lower than that, I’m positive it’ll be much lower than 10.7:1. MAP reading 11.1 PSI, at idle no less, no way. 220 ECT, no way. IAT is up, but he could have had it sitting for a while.

If in key on engine off, upload a map and see if it reads -29.9 under the MAP sensor tab. If you crank it and it turns straight to 11.1 psi, that map sensor is bad or a circuit-related issue (if you misplace the TPS and MAP sensor connectors (MAP plug on the TPS or vice versa) you’ll burn the sensors and get skewed readings).
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...i believe my a/f ratio is low maybe that’s the problem...
Not the only one. The engine has at closed throttle a duty cycle of 11 % and still has an idle speed of 758 [email protected]° ign. timing. A good condition engine would rise engine speed to at least 4000 rpm. As air pressure is just at -11 psi, it is way too much and therefore too rich. Idle must be crappy.

Injectors staying open 17.22ms? Is that even possible unless someone set it up that way?.
Yes, if we do the math, 11 % duty cycle correspond at 758 rpm exactly 17.22 ms. That's fully plausible. What is for sure, the real AF is much lower then 10.7:1, it shows just the limit of the measurement range of it. With 17.22 ms inj. duration I assume 270 ccm injectors, 310 ccm injectors would made the situation even worse. Idle need definitely a fuel adjustment.

I would appreciate to see here logs instead of pictures, as a KManager picture is a moment, not an average, which would for analyse muuuuuch better.
 

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Yes, if we do the math, 11 % duty cycle correspond at 758 rpm exactly 17.22 ms. That's fully plausible. What is for sure, the real AF is much lower then 10.7:1, it shows just the limit of the measurement range of it. With 17.22 ms inj. duration I assume 270 ccm injectors, 310 ccm injectors would made the situation even worse. Idle need definitely a fuel adjustment.

I would appreciate to see here logs instead of pictures, as a KManager picture is a moment, not an average, which would for analyse muuuuuch better.
Ah ok I see. That makes sense to me. As I posted before, it is exactly what you’re saying: the true AF is much lower than 10.7. But without a log, who knows what exactly is going on with this car?

After only a few threads in the past where LotusElise asks for a log, I already knew that if I had such a problem, I am posting a log. Almost seems like something to add to the Stickys. Data is the truth and members posting “HELP!” threads with such issues can get the proper guidance and a clear path to the solution.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Almost seems like something to add to the Stickys.
Good idea @jr_deleon. We can work this thread out for a reference approach. Idle issues are way over 1/3 of all reported issues. If a receipt can be worked out here it is definitely worth a sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
[Update]: okay so I installed a wideband last week & just recently installed a new idle control valve & it’s seems to idle slightly better but it’s still trash lol I can tell it’s not supposed to idle like how it’s doing rn
104427

Only thing that’s red now is injectors still but I honestly have no clue how to fix that , ive read previous responses & there’s something things I get that you guys say but I’m still new to kswapping & doing all this so half the things you guys say I don’t understand lol but I’m learning as I go so I slowly get what you guys are saying eventually lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
104428

Also these are a list of codes that popped up when I turned the car on just today , these are codes I never got until now
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not the only one. The engine has at closed throttle a duty cycle of 11 % and still has an idle speed of 758 [email protected]° ign. timing. A good condition engine would rise engine speed to at least 4000 rpm. As air pressure is just at -11 psi, it is way too much and therefore too rich. Idle must be crappy.

Yes, if we do the math, 11 % duty cycle correspond at 758 rpm exactly 17.22 ms. That's fully plausible. What is for sure, the real AF is much lower then 10.7:1, it shows just the limit of the measurement range of it. With 17.22 ms inj. duration I assume 270 ccm injectors, 310 ccm injectors would made the situation even worse. Idle need definitely a fuel adjustment.

I would appreciate to see here logs instead of pictures, as a KManager picture is a moment, not an average, which would for analyse muuuuuch better.
What are logs ? Sorry I’m still new to all this lol
 

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That is what I posted (Post #6). If that MAP sensor was reading 11.1psi on my car at idle. I am not even looking at anything else until that is resolved. It is bad.

It appeared that there were quite a few codes. The secondary o2 (unless it was in a vehicle that supports it, such as an RSX) is not relevant to a K swapped car. It should be turned off. It will eliminate that code.

Now if you have had the MIL on (check engine light) in the past, those are codes the ECU has stored in memory. So if you turned the ignition on at any point with sensors disconnected or the car was running and those sensors were disconnected/bad, it would be stored in memory. That is possibly what you have going on there.

Not sure why you have a code for intake runner control: circuit low. It’s a swapped car and you likely don’t need it. If there is a way to disable it, just do that. Now if it is a base RSX or EP3 ecu (or use a base RSX harness) I cannot speak to that.

Overheating: assuming there aren’t issues with the thermostat, water pump, coolant quality, insufficient radiator/fan size…it’s a K swap so I automatically look at the bleeding process and how it was done. Very likely there are bubbles in the coolant. There are many topics from years back on this forum about that issue. Assuming this is not resolved, I would look at that.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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That is what I posted (Post #6). If that MAP sensor was reading 11.1psi on my car at idle. I am not even looking at anything else until that is resolved. It is bad.
Good find. I got mixed up, thought it is -11.1 psi to atmosphere, which would be around 24 kPa - very low, but temporarily possible. My misunderstanding. Anyway I am glad another K-series issue is solved.
 
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