[Scantr0n]

Started the car for the first time after it got back from the shop to fix a few issues with the REX. So heres my issue, start the car,revs high for the warm idle. Does that for a few mins than it drops revs and than it bumps up and bumps down revs. What could this be?? A sensor or a vacum line?? Anyone had this problem.....

 

[[email protected]]

Sounds to me like you need to clean your IACV. There's lots of info on it.

 

[d5civic]

Started the car for the first time after it got back from the shop to fix a few issues with the REX. So heres my issue, start the car,revs high for the warm idle. Does that for a few mins than it drops revs and than it bumps up and bumps down revs. What could this be?? A sensor or a vacum line?? Anyone had this problem.....

had the same problem. common problem when you have the motor sitting for a while.

Clean the IACV with some brake cleaner. I did that and it only helped a little. I ended up getting the sensor replaced and the problem went away.

 

[[email protected]]

If the IACV is cleaned really good with carb cleaner, they can usually be saved and used again. I have fixed some that were stuck very badly.

 

[Scantr0n]

Do you guys happen to know the part number for that part??

 

[AWH]

Do you guys happen to know the part number for that part??

You really don't want to buy one until you have tried to fix the old one. They are $330 even from Autozone. The stealership will take even more of your money.

I just went through all of this last week when I started my swap for the first time. Major idle surging. Took apart the IACV and cleaned it up really good fixed it about 90%. I also had some air pockets in the coolant, so I had to raise the front of the car to burp the system. Idle is still not perfect, but gets better the more the car is run.

Do a search in "IACV" and "idle surging" in the main K-series forum for details on cleaning.

--Andy

 

[Scantr0n]

You really don't want to buy one until you have tried to fix the old one. They are $330 even from Autozone. The stealership will take even more of your money.

I just went through all of this last week when I started my swap for the first time. Major idle surging. Took apart the IACV and cleaned it up really good fixed it about 90%. I also had some air pockets in the coolant, so I had to raise the front of the car to burp the system. Idle is still not perfect, but gets better the more the car is run.

Do a search in "IACV" and "idle surging" in the main K-series forum for details on cleaning.

--Andy

I just got back from the acura dealership,and he told me the part was about 248$$ #18022 PRB A02 . So i guess the next step is to take the part off and do a full cleaning on it. Brake cleaner the best for that part or is there some kind of lub spray that you could use??

 

[AWH]

I just got back from the acura dealership,and he told me the part was about 248$$ #18022 PRB A02 . So i guess the next step is to take the part off and do a full cleaning on it. Brake cleaner the best for that part or is there some kind of lub spray that you could use??

I used carb cleaner and then PB Blaster. There is a combination of coolant corrosion and also some exhaust type carbon buildup.

There is a trick to disassembly in that the screws which hold the plastic (magnet) part to the main IACV body have five-pointed star inserts similar to Torx, but different. Most folks use a small dremel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt to then use a flat-bladed screwdriver.

When you are done cleaning, the "rotating window" should spin freely.

Good luck!

--Andy

 

[Scantr0n]

My next question is, have you ever heard of a company called RCrew? They make a block off plate for the IACV. Would that by pass my problem here?

 

[Scantr0n]

Answered my own question
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41975

 

[K20EF8]

I had the same issue. Its the IACV, needs to be cleaned or if you take it out and drive it might fix itself like mine did. I think you are in Toronto right? At least that name sound familiar, you used to have a green EF hatch? I have a spare IACV (I think) I could give you if you really need it...

 

[Scantr0n]

I had the same issue. Its the IACV, needs to be cleaned or if you take it out and drive it might fix itself like mine did. I think you are in Toronto right? At least that name sound familiar, you used to have a green EF hatch? I have a spare IACV (I think) I could give you if you really need it...

Yeah I am just east of toronto,Whitby. Thats funny you remembered my old hatch. That little guy is still kicking around town here. I sold it to my buddy but its midnight hawk colour now. Anyways if you still happen to have that spare one ill grab that off you ...Maybe sometime this week if your around. Where you located??

 

[Scantr0n]

I used carb cleaner and then PB Blaster. There is a combination of coolant corrosion and also some exhaust type carbon buildup.

There is a trick to disassembly in that the screws which hold the plastic (magnet) part to the main IACV body have five-pointed star inserts similar to Torx, but different. Most folks use a small dremel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt to then use a flat-bladed screwdriver.

When you are done cleaning, the "rotating window" should spin freely.

Good luck!

--Andy

This might be a dumb question,but I have never taken one of these apart so thats why i ask before doing it so I can do it the right way. I seen that black sensor on the IACV all you have to do is take that off and than you can spray the brake cleaner or PB blaster correct? You don't have to take the hole throtle body off now do you??

 

[AWH]

This might be a dumb question,but I have never taken one of these apart so thats why i ask before doing it so I can do it the right way. I seen that black sensor on the IACV all you have to do is take that off and than you can spray the brake cleaner or PB blaster correct? You don't have to take the hole throtle body off now do you??

Sort of. The IACV has two parts: one is the black plastic, the other is aluminum. You need to at least remove the aluminum housing from the TB. Then take off the black piece. The cleaner spray goes into the bottom of the aluminum part, but you need the black piece off so you can spin the little wheel. It will make sense once you pull the piece off.

--Andy

 

[Scantr0n]

Sort of. The IACV has two parts: one is the black plastic, the other is aluminum. You need to at least remove the aluminum housing from the TB. Then take off the black piece. The cleaner spray goes into the bottom of the aluminum part, but you need the black piece off so you can spin the little wheel. It will make sense once you pull the piece off.

--Andy

To take the IAVC off its two bolts correct underneath the TB?? Which really sucks is this Huge motor in this little car...hahaha not much room. Does anyone have a service manual site on this motor??Than I could actually understand it a little bit.

 

[AWH]

To take the IAVC off its two bolts correct underneath the TB?? Which really sucks is this Huge motor in this little car...hahaha not much room. Does anyone have a service manual site on this motor??Than I could actually understand it a little bit.

Read the FAQ. FSM is linked there.

--Andy

 

[Scantr0n]

Read the FAQ. FSM is linked there.

--Andy

FSM??? Sorry don't understand that....

 

[AWH]

FSM??? Sorry don't understand that....

Factory Service Manual