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Discussion Starter #1

All new Hybrid Racing 70mm & 74mm Throttle Bodies​


Short Description

* -available in 70mm and 74mm bores
* -Anodized 6061-T6 Aluminum
* -Bolts to RBC and PRB intake manifolds
* -Accommodates Cruise Control
* -Knife-edged 76mm inlet
* -Integral Block-off for IACV, MAP sensor, and Emissions Solenoid
* -Retains IACV coolant port for IACV mounting flexibility
* -Stainless steel mounting bolts included
* -Custom Thermal Insulating Gasket Included
* -Staked butterfly bolts for added reliability
* -Dual Concentric Torsion Springs
* -Lightweight steel bracket


Long Description:

The Hybrid Racing big bore k-series throttle bodies are by-far the most feature packed throttle bodies on the market. When we designed this throttle body, we wanted to create a reliable product that allowed as much flexibility in your setup as possible.

One simple, but very notable feature of this throttle body is the dual bolt pattern. By incorporating two bolt patterns, this throttle body is able to bolt directly to a PRB or RBC intake manifold. By eliminating the need for an adapter when upgrading from a PRB to RBC intake manifold, this throttle body saves you as much as $75. Another great feature on this throttle body is the ability to delete or retain your factory cruise control. This is the only big bore throttle body on the market that allows you to retain cruise control. Who says you can’t make serious power AND keep your creature comforts?

In the spirit of making this throttle body the most setup-flexible on the market, we incorporated integral block-offs for the IACV, Emissions Solenoid, and MAP sensor. The IACV can be completely blocked off using the (4) included 1/8 NPT plugs. The Emissions Solenoid and MAP Sensor can be blocked off using the included aluminum plugs. Better yet, the aluminum plugs can be held down using the supplied retaining rings, meaning no worries of plugs popping out if you’re running boost! This throttle body also retains the IACV coolant port than many manufacturer’s hastily delete. This means that on K-swaps where radiator/IACV clearance is an issue, you can still rotate your IACV 180 degrees and loop the coolant hose to eliminate the interference with the radiator while keeping the smooth idle offered by keeping the IACV.

Another interesting feature are the dual concentric torsion springs. Believe it or not, this throttle body has 4 torsion springs built into it. The throttle and cruise cables each get a dedicated torsion spring to keep the cables taught, just like in the OEM design. 2 springs are used to shut the butterfly itself, making this throttle body the only NHRA legal big-bore throttle body on the market.

Last, but not least, the (3) bolts used to fasten the brass butterfly to the steel center shaft are staked. Staking is the process of deforming a bolt to prevent it from coming loose and falling out. This means that even if one of these bolts were to become loose, it would be unable to come completely out. If you’ve heard of people blowing up motors from bolts falling out of other manufacturer’s throttle bodies, then you know how important a feature this is.

Our throttle bodies are available in 74mm and 70m m bores with a 76m m inlet. The proprietary knife-edged 76mm inlet design means increased inlet velocities and lower inlet turbulence compared to competing throttle bodies. They feature dual ball bearings, dual needle bearings, integral o-ring seals, 6061-T6 aluminum construction, and a no-stick butterfly design. Each throttle body is supplied with stainless steel mounting hardware for all sensors and the throttle body itself. The kit also includes a custom fit thermal insulating gasket to help you keep intake temps down.

A note about boring your intake manifold:
It should be noted that a big bore throttle body should never be used on an intake manifold that has not had the inlet bored out to match the bore of the throttle body. A setup using a big bore throttle body mated to an OEM sized inlet port will yield lower performance than the OEM throttle body. That said, when boring the inlet on an intake manifold, it’s best to overbore slightly (about .25-.5mm is sufficient), to prevent the chance of a lip that could create turbulence. While many people will prefer to have a machine shop bore their manifold, if you are familiar with forming metal using a die grinder and sanding drum, you can bore your manifold yourself. If you are hesitant to bore your own manifold, you should consult a machine shop first. Hybrid Racing is able to supply prebored K-Series intake manifolds for an additional charge. Also, note that the use of a 74mm throttle body on a K-series intake manifold dictates that the boring process be a bit more involved. Because of IACV port geometry, boring a PRB, RBC, or RBB manifold to 74mm requires boring a 74mm hole, then welding the IACV passageway shut, and finally reboring the welded area back to 74mm. A 70mm throttle body requires a single boring operation only.

MSRP: $410.00
Availability: In-Stock (70mm Only)
MORE INFO


PM me or email me at [email protected] to get special K20a.org member pricing.








 

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Discussion Starter #7
It was tuned before and after on that graph.

The DBW are going to be a tab bit longer. Once they are ready to go out, you guys will be the first to know!
 

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It was tuned before and after on that graph.

The DBW are going to be a tab bit longer. Once they are ready to go out, you guys will be the first to know!
darn...did'nt catch it but it was in the description...my fault.

Anxiously waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do these bolt to an RRC manifold without a special adapter similar to the RBC?
You still to trim you RRC for the IACV port or run the adapter that has the IACV port cut in it.

As far as bolting up, yes. It has the same bolt pattern as the RBC.

Here's the pics from Super Street when they did the testing on it:

(notice the bottom of the TB opening)

 

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oh my god tim i need my 74mm tb in my life please
 

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I'm seriously considering this throttle body for a couple of reasons but I also had a question or two.


First, I really want to buy it because it's the only TB I've found that still allow cruise control. Thank you!


My question is this, I'm not running any of the top sensors (TPS or Purge I believe it is) on my RSX throttle body. I see a bunch of accessories, are those caps for the top ports if I'm not using them? I want a super clean look.

Second I see a barb fitting in the photo. What is that for? I bought a spacer just to hook up a line for the brake booster. I'd like to eliminate that spacer too if possible.


Here you can see all of my rubber plugs. I want to clean that up and also I hate that the stock throttle body has those huge towers for the one sensor


Any sponsor options or discounts :D :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
If you look at this pic, the two small silver fittings are the for the MAP & Purge block off ports on top the throttle body.

The barb'd fitting is for coolant for the IACV. For brake booster vacuum you may still have to the run the adapter piece you already have or tap into the S/C.



Pm me for pricing :)
 

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My question is this, I'm not running any of the top sensors (TPS or Purge I believe it is) on my RSX throttle body. I see a bunch of accessories, are those caps for the top ports if I'm not using them? I want a super clean look.

Second I see a barb fitting in the photo. What is that for? I bought a spacer just to hook up a line for the brake booster. I'd like to eliminate that spacer too if possible.
Like Tim said, those rubber plugs you are using wouldn't be needed on our tb as we supply custom color-matched aluminum plugs with our tb. Also, there's actually a way you can get rid of that spacer if you want. If you look in our install guide for this tb (see our site), there's a way to set up your IACV so that it's rotated 180 degrees. With this setup, you run a hose under the tb for the IACV. You could actually put a "T" fitting in this hose and run your other vacuum line off of that T if you want. It would all be under the manifold, so it'd be pretty hard to see.
 

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Like Tim said, those rubber plugs you are using wouldn't be needed on our tb as we supply custom color-matched aluminum plugs with our tb. Also, there's actually a way you can get rid of that spacer if you want. If you look in our install guide for this tb (see our site), there's a way to set up your IACV so that it's rotated 180 degrees. With this setup, you run a hose under the tb for the IACV. You could actually put a "T" fitting in this hose and run your other vacuum line off of that T if you want. It would all be under the manifold, so it'd be pretty hard to see.
Now that would be great for me. Being that I have a K24 swap in my RSX, this plus the spacer makes it a serious pain to get my CAI neck on. Now are you talking about buying a separate part to rotate the IACV? Because I don't see how you'd do it just with the throttle body?
 

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Now that would be great for me. Being that I have a K24 swap in my RSX, this plus the spacer makes it a serious pain to get my CAI neck on. Now are you talking about buying a separate part to rotate the IACV? Because I don't see how you'd do it just with the throttle body?
See page 5 and 6 of our install guide here:

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/tech/k-series-throttle-body-install-guide/

If you are not supplying coolant to the tb, you can flip the IACV 180 degrees. This requires the use of an addtional hose (you'll see a picture in the guide). This can only be done on OEM and Hybrid Racing k-series throttle bodies. Because many companies delete the coolant passage in the IACV on their tb's, they also eliminate the ability to flip the IACV. This requires no adapter plate of any kind. :up:

We went through great pains to make this throttle body the most versatile on the market; I hope that's reflected well in the design.

~russ
 
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