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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright Guys,

I had A/C for about a year now, also wired my boy's DC2, both working perfectly.

I hope that all you can enjoy some freezing cold A/C by the time your done reading this.



1. How Much It Costs:
Nothing to be scared about, to have a fully working and customized "tucked" A/C system, I spent about $50 on aluminum lines, $25 on a new dryer and about $50 worth of aluminum welds. Plus of course the fees from the A/C shop for vacuuming the system and recharging my A/C. Now, A OEM style setup will be much cheaper.


2. Thoughts:
So, the AC system may seem complicated but it really is not. Basically you need a low pressure line (the big one at your firewall) and a high pressure hookup (the small one at your firewall).

In my Personal car, I spent many hours trying to get the A/C working and working my way. I will tell you how I did my personal car which was a "tucked A/C setup" and I will tell you another way to get this task done.

3. Components:
1st Of all guys, all components need to have to be well kept. If a AC dryer for example is opened and exposed to the elements, it will hold moisture and freeze itself, causing your AC to not cool (until it thaws out again). So, lets use the best condition components.

1. Working AC Compressor
2. Stock AC Lines (The more the better, more options for welding)
3. New A/C Dryer (Recommended because its cheap)
4. A/C Condensor
5. All In Dash OEM A/C Components

4. A/C Lines:
Low Pressure Line (Big fat one):
For this part we can use most of our OEM A/C lines, only needing to extend the low pressure side to bolt up to the K Series A/C Compressor. Also, one line is needed to go from our A/C Condenser to the A/C Compressor.

High pressure Lines (Small skinny lines):
If you choose to go with a OEM styled setup, then you do not have to change any of the high pressure lines.

If you choose to do a "tucked" A/C system, then you can get creative and do the lines how you want, also mount the A/C dryer where you want. My dryer is under the frame rail/fender liner, right beside my Karcepts CAI.

The A/C System is simple... Compressor Left Port (facing front of car) goes to the Bigger port on your firewall. This line has to have a L (low pressure) valve welded in there. (Re-use your OEM valves.)

The Compressor Right port goes to the left port of the Condenser.

The Condenser right port goes to a port on the AC dryer.

The second port from the AC dryer goes to the smaller port on your firewall. IF you choose to do custom lines, make sure the section of tubing between the firewall and Dryer port has a H (high pressure) valve welded in there.

I re-used both the H and L valves from my Honda and just relocated them in the line where I wanted them. Make sure that they are in a spot that doesn't get in the way of recharging the A/C when the A/C guys try to access the valves.

4.(2) A/C Line Adjustments
Low Pressure Lines:
For this part you have to get creative. I personally used 2 OEM Honda Low pressure lines (The big ones) and Cut the aluminum hard tube part and made the 2 combine into 1 Line by welding. Reminding to weld in the L A/C valve somewhere in the section of hard tubing.

Alternatively, You can go to a shop that does high pressure hoses like Hydraulic hoses, and have them make you a rubber section as long as you want, to make the connection between Compressor and Firewall. This costs... about $25-45 per line. (You only need to do 2.)

High Pressure Lines:
You can choose to do the very easy but a little cluttered oem route or you can customize the lines. I would do OEM style and not touch anything on this side if your a person that dont care for tucking your bay.

5. Wiring (The Proper Way)
Kpro:

EG (OBD1):
1.Connect A15 BLK/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin E18 at the RSX ECU
2.Connect B5 BLU/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin B9 BLU/BLK at the RSX ECU
3.Activate Alternative AC Switch in Kmanager: Parameters:Misc
4.Disable Oil Pressure Switch and Multiplexor

DC2/DB8 (OBD2A):
1.Connect A17 BLK/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin E18 at the RSX ECU
2.Connect C5 BLU/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin B9 BLU/BLK at the RSX ECU
3.Activate Alternative AC Switch in Kmanager: Parameters:Misc
4.Disable Oil Pressure Switch and Multiplexor

OBD2B
1.Connect A17 BLK/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin E18 at the RSX ECU
2.Connect A27 BLU/RED on stock car ECU connector to pin B9 BLU/BLK at the RSX ECU
3.Activate Alternative AC Switch in Kmanager: Parameters:Misc
4.Disable Oil Pressure Switch and Multiplexor

Anyone I missed out for wiring just convert OBD1 pins to your relative pins on your type of ECU's pinout. If you need help just PM, but you must atleast know your OBD type 1st.

6. Conclusion
Go to get your A/C recharged and enjoy!

Note: Your A/C Clutch will NOT engage if your system is not charged, you can use a piece of wire and jump the 2 pins of the A/C low pressure switch however, as a test... and it WILL engage. (In my personal car I eliminated the low pressure switch ;))

Pics to follow later....

Andre
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just came back from a nice drive in the A/C :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I cant figure out how to do that lol

Thanks man, had to get creative, where im from The Cayman Islands is HOTTT
 

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Can you post multiple pics of your engine bay.. I'm very interested to see how tucked this system looks.

I really want A/C but hate all the extra crap in the bay associated with it.

Oh one other question. You stated you can get rubber hoses made up for the A/C lines. Which ones exactly were you referring to and which ones must remain hardlines? Is it safe to assume I could get longer tubes bent up that would locate most of the A/c components under my fender or bumper?

Thanks for your time and help
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will post pics later in the evening.

Yeah, you can get the rubber hoses crimped, to route anyway you like, as long as you like... you can go out the front by the rad support, come behind the fender and re-enter into the bay near the firewall connection point. If you want.

You can also extend by using hardline (which is what I did), however hard line is pretty hard to bend, and has to be welded, the rubber crimped high pressure hoses are a better way to go if I were to do it again.

*edit* To answer your question more clearly, theres only 2 lines that need to be (dont even NEED to be) rubber lines... thats the low pressure feed to the compressor, and the compressor output to the condenser.

You can get creative and do whatever you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Added wiring for OBD2B. :up::up::up:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Summit Racing has all sized aluminum tubing.

Pics to come... bay in a mess with mocking up/istalling my ALL IN Fabrication radiator.
 

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So if I have all of my stock DC2 AC stuff. All I need to buy is a RSX Compressor/Condenser and some aluminum lines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yep.... The Condenser is just an idea I have, it may work better, My A/C is ice cold but condenser gets hot, that affects the cooling. A bigger K Series condenser may be better.

Uploading pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pics uploaded, excuse the mess. Excuse the missing firewall seal, zipties etc etc... this is my daily that I cant get a chance to work on and its in BETA version. Its cooling very well, so Im not gonna bother change it up for a while.

Look forward to all of you improving on my beta and hopefully giving me some ideas too, to update the setup in the future.
 

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damn a/c sounds nice especially with the summer heat right now. thanks for sharing.
 

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with people running the k-tuned passenger side radiator is it possible to run a/c? or do they need to change to a driver side radiator..
 
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