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Discussion Starter #1
I looked but surprisingly couldn't find any answers to what I'm looking for. If the answers are out there, they're not easy to find. Please post the answers here if you have them so that others may have an easier time finding them.

Out of curiousity, I was wondering how to add and disable oil squirters. I'm not talking about the thing that lubricates the balance shafts for some of the oil pumps but the ones that squirt up towards the piston. Specifically, I'm talking about these parts found on the RSX-S, TSX and 06+ Civic Si:
15280-PRB-A00 - BODY, OIL JET
15290-PRA-000 - BOLT, OIL JET

Lets start with the easy one. I assume to disable/delete the oil squirters you'd need to find a replacement bolt (a simple one without the spring mechanism) otherwise you'd be gushing oil and have no oil pressure. Anybody have any idea what the bolt size and thread pitch is?

Now, how does one go about adding oil squirters to a K20A3, K24A1 or K24A4 block? Are the holes already somewhat there? I assume you can't just tap it as nothing is coming out yet. How deep would a shop have to drill? Or is this a much more complicated task?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^^ That doesn't really tell me anything. I know the differences. I want to know how to add oil squirters to a K20A3 or K24A1 and how to block them on a K20A, K20A2 or K24A1.

Like what's the thread pattern that needs to be used? How deep do we have to drill?

But that reminds me, here's a possible way to get around having to drill above the oil filter to access the oil thing that's bolted shut: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34850
 

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You will need to have a machine shop drill, mill a flat sealing surface and finally tap for the banjo bolts. The bosses are already cast into the block, just not finished.

I have yet to rebuild a Kseries and not delete them, I have a drawer full of squirters at the machine shop.
 

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Yeah, the problem is not everyone has the cash to build a motor. :) What if someone can't resleeve and are stuck with the OEM CRV pistons but have a K20A2 head? Yeah, I also realize that a lot of people are running that setup without the oil squirters too. It's just nice to have specifics on this info.
 

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Yeah, the problem is not everyone has the cash to build a motor. :) What if someone can't resleeve and are stuck with the OEM CRV pistons but have a K20A2 head? Yeah, I also realize that a lot of people are running that setup without the oil squirters too. It's just nice to have specifics on this info.
But as I said all the blocks have the bosses already cast in. The cost of having the bosses machined and opened up to use the squirters will not be cheap.
And why would you have to resleeve to run different pistons? A set of TSX pistons and a ceramic coating would probably be a wash with the machine shop costs for adding the squirters.
 

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Yeah, the problem is not everyone has the cash to build a motor. :) What if someone can't resleeve and are stuck with the OEM CRV pistons but have a K20A2 head? Yeah, I also realize that a lot of people are running that setup without the oil squirters too. It's just nice to have specifics on this info.
But as I said all the blocks have the bosses already cast in. The cost of having the bosses machined and opened up to use the squirters will not be cheap.
And why would you have to resleeve to run different pistons? A set of TSX pistons and a ceramic coating would probably be a wash with the machine shop costs for adding the squirters.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I didn't mean that you needed to resleeve. Was just talking about stock vs built motor.

I've just never considered using OEM rods/pistons with a sleeved block. I personally wouldn't go with new sleeves and OEM pistons and rods nor would I just do pistons and rods without resleeving.

I might have to do something along the lines of running a stock CR-V block with my RSX-S head. I'm not sure I like not having oil squirters with the stock CR-V pistons.
 

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Here is a pic of the inside of my K24A1 block, you can see the bosses are there.

If the stock sleeves are within specs, there is no need to resleeve with new pistons and rods. I am going to 87.5 with Wiseco pistons and forged rods without resleeving.

 

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Ok sorry but this might be a stupid question. I'm going to build a K24 from an accord with an RSX type-s head. I've read that the accord block dosent have oil squirters or oil cooler. would these be nessesary if I'm planing on building the moter with forged pistons and everything else. The reason I ask is that some people want to plug the oil squirters and others want to open them up. Any help would be apreciated. thanks whats the best rout for this set up?
 

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It seems to be opinion. I understand cast pistons expand at the same rate as the block when they get hot, so they don't cause problems. Forged pistons expand faster, and if they get too hot will hit the cylinder walls. For this reason I plan on having squirters keeping my forged pistons cool, and a couple pro engine builders agree with this. That's good enough for me.
 

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Thanks a lot for the quick reply. Sounds good. I belive that the safest bet would be to have the oil squirters just to keep things cooler and more lubed. I guess that would be the safest bet. thanks
 

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It seems to be opinion. I understand is that cast pistons expand at the same rate as the block when they get hot, so they don't cause problems. Forged pistons expand faster, and if they get too hot will hit the cylinder walls. For this reason I plan on having squirters keeping my forged pistons cool, and a couple pro engine builders agree with this. That's good enough for me.
A much better solution is to ceramic coat the tops of the forged pistons. The ceramic slows the heat transfer to the forged pistons and the operating temp of the piston, reducing heat to the pin and hence forth the rod and crank.

I have seen oil squirters fail in the open position, not a good thing to happen at idle.
 

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Yet our company has done extensive testing of thermal coatings too, for an aviation application. The conclusion was that they work great - if they were a lot thicker. They're so thin they just don't have enough effect to make them worthwhile, in our opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok sorry but this might be a stupid question. I'm going to build a K24 from an accord with an RSX type-s head. I've read that the accord block dosent have oil squirters or oil cooler. would these be nessesary if I'm planing on building the moter with forged pistons and everything else. The reason I ask is that some people want to plug the oil squirters and others want to open them up. Any help would be apreciated. thanks whats the best rout for this set up?
Well, there might be a possible solution to the oil cooler...
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34850

The oil cooler just sits between the oil filter and the block. The only problem is with the plumbing. The above link might be a solution without having to drill and tap anything.
 

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The thread pitch is .75mm

If someone can chime in on the diameter we will have a new internet data piece.
 
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