Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm looking for a professional and reliable Honda engine builder in EU, that can source and build a K20A2 or K24A2 hybrid track day engine for me.
All suggestions and contacts are of interest.
Olof
 

· Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
·
10,680 Posts
hi, thank you for asking. No I went the same way as always. Do it yourself and you get wath you want. ;-)
You didn't ask me 😂. Anyway, if you want to get it done, do it your self, or find one reliable, competent, rational, knowledge-full, accurate, customer-service-orientated in that specific business that have time to do the job. Quite rare always, so DIY is most an option :D!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, you did, just joking. Would be great if you share your progress :)!
Ok, in short right now,
Got my hands on a K20A2 engine with a bad bearing. Short block is now ready with straighten crank, Brian Crower light weight rods and some light weight pistons with slightly higher comp (don't remember the producer right now), 4piston oil pump and a baffle in the sump.
head is a good PRB-1, got a set of Skunk2 twin springs and retainers, nice and tight now.
Ordered the Toda cams you suggested, seamed to be very nicely priced.
Got a 70 mm Skunk Pro TB and a RBC inlet on the shelf.

Also got a new built gearbox with wavetrack LSD and long 6th

If you have any good supplier on engine harnesses I will glad to her about it. Also looking for a good under the frame down pipe.

That's about it for now.
 

· Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
·
10,680 Posts
set of Skunk2 twin springs and retainers...Ordered the Toda cams you suggested,
You mean this 344-05-1410 - Springs, Retainers & Bases - Engine - Skunk2 Racing here? With the correct seat base and retainers? Stock stuff is not matchable with it, also the keepers need to be before the angle upgrade in 2004.

If you have the mentioned above, don't lower the installed valve spring height below 39.2 mm. These spring have an almost similar high spring rate as the stock ones and cause quite a lot of pressure when fully open. I am no fan of these, the loose quite a lot of valve pressure after they are broken in. The heat treatment process is a key quality feature and those are of lowest quality which can be seen in the loss of valve spring pressure. My recommendation is always using the TODA springs in addition. These are well designed, fabricated to a very good quality level and capable of running the 13 mm lift up to 8900 rpm safely on stock valvetrain parts (follower, valves, keepers and retainers). I have pushed them to 9500 rpm in a short burst, the valves are still sealing the chamber properly. I've run them on a 9350 rpm redline for tuning and will keep a 9000 rpm for the application*.

If you have the Skunk2 Pro valve springs, then good night, these are race specified regarding seat pressure to be capable of higher engine speeds and valve accelerations, like you would see with camshafts like the S2 U-series, DC Elite series and the valvetrain destroying 4Piston RR series (low speed and high speed lobe runway wear, low quality hardening, low quality cam design, which fits only to 1/4 mile applications). Of course you can run them also, but expect a higher wear on the valve seats and valvetrain parts.



* I had indications that VE didn't stay beyond 8200 rpm, which I've related to insufficient valve spring pressure, but that hypothesis is not validated yet and other experts doubt on my thesis and describe a floating valve as a harder pony killer then just stay at the same range size from 8200-8600 rpm. Which makes sense, but yet not validated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You mean this 344-05-1410 - Springs, Retainers & Bases - Engine - Skunk2 Racing here? With the correct seat base and retainers? Stock stuff is not matchable with it, also the keepers need to be before the angle upgrade in 2004.
Yes, I have these with the right base. What are you saying? The "stock stuff", is it valves and keepers that don't match the Skunk spring if they are fitted in a PRB-1 head?? What is the problem, valve spring height??

Don't lower the installed valve spring height below 39.2 mm.
Haven't measured that yet. What is the short coming below 39.2?? Spring bottoming out??

These spring have an almost similar high spring rate as the stock ones and cause quite a lot of pressure when fully open.
Do you say that I'm better of with the standard stocks springs???

My recommendation is always using the TODA springs in addition.
So ditch the Skunk springs for TODA 14750-F20-000 with stock caps and keepers??

Admin Edit: @Oledolof, please use the multi quote function (mark it, click quote+ and add it later by the quote button) as it is hard to read if you edit in my quotes.
 

· Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
·
10,680 Posts
Yes, I have these with the right base. What are you saying? The "stock stuff", is it valves and keepers that don't match the Skunk spring if they are fitted in a PRB-1 head?? What is the problem, valve spring height??
No, the OE '04+ keepers don't match with the Skunk2 retainers, which are duty when you use their springs. The stock retainers don't match S2 Alpha valve springs

Do you say that I'm better of with the standard stocks springs???
No, I wrote the S2 springs have a high spring rate like the OE valve springs have it. These cams don't benefit from that high spring rate, it is just a force to overcome lost in friction.

So ditch the Skunk springs for TODA 14750-F20-000 with stock caps and keepers??
That would be a very good plan. I buy only from Honda racing JPN (Camshaft - TODA RACING (toda-racing.co.jp)), but the part number fits. What valve springs do you have, the single spring or double spring?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, the OE '04+ keepers don't match with the Skunk2 retainers, which are duty when you use their springs.

What valve springs do you have, the single spring or double spring?
Ok, good, thank you.
I have the right keepers, retainers, botoms. And the springs I got is The Skunk Alfa Double springs.
So the case is realy if the Skunk Alfa is crap and will cost more power than they gain. And if Toda singel springs would be a better choice?
If you say it's the case I will make the swap!

Do I know anyone in Germany? IRL? Not since Elke, the German beauty I met in UK many years ago. ;-) or maybe that was someone else looking for a great engine builder. :p
O
 

· Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
·
10,680 Posts
If you say it's the case I will make the swap!
I am sorry to say, the S2 valve springs are kind of front loading springs: start hard, end soft. The heat treatment of high quality springs is quite time consuming and need a lot of experience and knowhow to get a spring which don't loose e.g. 10 % seat pressure during the break in procedure. If you know this lack of quality you specify the valve harder or define the installation height smaller, thence it starts with a specification of 60 [email protected] mm, installed you see likely 73 [email protected] mm and it comes out with around maybe 65 [email protected] mm. That's marketing related front loading. Problem solved? Not at all, the durability of the residual 65 lbs at installation height does much less decline, compared to break in phase, but it is still declining. Great quality springs from Eibach, PAC or PSI have a much lower break in loss and a lower gradient of loss during operation. I don't know the OE of the TODA valve springs, they most likely do not produce those themselves, but their quality is OE like. We've seen race engines running over 20,000 km on TODA cams and valves without any sign of wear. I saw 4Piston RR4 and RR3 cams which shows cam lobe wear before 10,000 km. That is a world of difference in part design, product fabrication quality and result.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top