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Honda Civic EJ9 K24A3 swap

3465 Views 59 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Foresito
10
So after lurking for like ever on this forum that has been helpful to me many times, I have decided that you guys deserve to see yet another K24 build (how original).
I know you guys have seen a million K swaps already but I want to show you mine.

You all will have to excuse my poor english skills.

My story begins February 27th 2017 when I went to Portugal to buy my self a birthday present.
I bought this 1997 Honda Civic EJ9. It has a more than humble D14A4 pushing no less than 90hp. It is very close to the USDM EJ6 CX Civic but with a destroked D16.
It was my first car, and it was a blast to drive every day.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Car

Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Land vehicle

Those pics were taken the very first day I had it.

I had a fake Mugen lip that the previous owner broke the day before I bought it, so I removed what was left of it.

Then it sat for a while until I was able to bring it to Spain.
The first thing I did after I had it here, was some weight reduction and yellow tint for the headlights.

Automotive parking light Car Wheel Automotive side marker light Vehicle

Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Car seat cover


After that I went to test it with a couple of friends in the place where this car belongs, on some mountain roads on a rainy day.

Car Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle


Other than being deeply underpowered, it behaved amazingly well.

But since I brought it from Portugal, I noticed something: It smoked a lot.
Turns out the previous owner never changed the oil and it caused some damage to the engine to the point were it started burning lots of oil.

But at that moment I was a broke boy so there was nothing I could do about it besides cheking the oil level every once in a while.

My next mod was to install some D2 Racing coilovers, to make it handle even better.

Automotive tire Coil spring Automotive fuel system Pipe insulation Suspension


Also I removed the head unit and all the speakers for further wheight reduction.

Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Grille Motor vehicle


Car felt great after I installed those coilovers, but my driving style exceeded my tires hability to mantain grip.
I had some Toyo Proxes CF2 that honestly, I didn't like how they behaved on wet pavement. Besides, I got bored of those 14 inch wheels, so I found a set of Kosei Seneca RT wheels in 16x7 et38.

I also got some fresh Federals 595RS-Pro to go with my new rims.

Wheel Tire Sky Car Land vehicle

Wheel Automotive tire Tire Tread Hubcap


Later I got a set of reverse white tail lights that I bought from a fella from Germany who I used to talk a lot to.

Wheel Tire Car Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle registration plate
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Doctronic ECU arrived along with some Bosch EV6 550cc injectors.
Fuel pump does not prime tho. I'll try to ground the yellow/green wire that comes from the main relay.
Bottle stopper & saver Wood Gas Tints and shades Electric blue
Motor vehicle Automotive design Font Steering wheel Automotive exterior

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Sleeve


Also got some knock off Spoon gauges.
Speedometer Vehicle Car Gauge Motor vehicle
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Ok, so it doesn't start.
Fuel pump doesn't prime and I got no spark.
Main relay works, and the fuel pump works when hooked to a battery.
Injectors seem to fire when I crank the engine and I got RPM reading so I know that the CKP functions properly.
Any ideas???
Ok, so it doesn't start.
Fuel pump doesn't prime and I got no spark.
Main relay works, and the fuel pump works when hooked to a battery.
Injectors seem to fire when I crank the engine and I got RPM reading so I know that the CKP functions properly.
Any ideas???
Are you using an ep3 CKP? Or the stock k24 one?
Are you using an ep3 CKP? Or the stock k24 one?
EP3 CKP. When I crank the engine, the laptop reads about 200rpm.
2
So some updates.
It does not start yet.
Still no fuel/no spark.
Got a CKP code, replaced it and now the code is gone but still no start. (Previous CKP was from AliExpress)
ECU sends signal to the coils, I got continuity to ground on the black wire of the coils, but I only got 1.6V on the white wire.
Pin 20 on the C101 connector also gets 1.6V only.

I have no idea what is going on.

But on the bright side, I got the half shaft issue resolved.
A half shaft from a JDM Accord Euro R did the trick.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive exterior



Bonus:
I got this rare item:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive fuel system Engineering


It's a FIA sanctioned 70/63mm Mugen throttle body from a WTCC Honda Civic FN2 race car.
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Still no fuel/no spark....ECU sends signal to the coils, I got continuity to ground on the black wire of the coils, but I only got 1.6V on the white wire...Pin 20 on the C101 connector also gets 1.6V only.
Can you please do a log from Key 2 position for about 10 s, share it at a cloud link here and ping the wires of the main and fuel relay (s. prb pins a1 & a22 | Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum)?

It's a FIA sanctioned 70/63mm Mugen throttle body from a WTCC Honda Civic FN2 race car.
Wow, that has some history inside :love:.
Hopefully there is some clearance between your half shaft, exhaust, and what I think are oil cooler lines? Looks very tight in the picture.
turns out I had a connector unpluged under the dash, and now the fuel pump does prime and I got more voltage to the coils, but still under 12V so the spark plugs wont fire.
So I threw a cable from the battery positive directly to one of the coils and now it almost starts.


Maybe I'll try to send current to every coil directly.
Maybe I'll try to send current to every coil directly.
The harness does this already. Please ping the wires I've suggested. Maybe you should ping the complete harness before you test anything.
Hopefully there is some clearance between your half shaft, exhaust, and what I think are oil cooler lines? Looks very tight in the picture.
Theres more clearance than it seems between the headers and the half shaft, but the oil lines are in fact touching it so i will have to fabricate a plate to hold them closer to the block
Can you please do a log from Key 2 position for about 10 s, share it at a cloud link here and ping the wires of the main and fuel relay
So if I understand correctly, you want me to check what voltages I get on the relays?
So if I understand correctly, you want me to check what voltages I get on the relays?
No, i think he's taking about checking the continuity on both ends of the loom on all those circuits...

Also if you can log the ecu data for 10s with the key on but not started or running and share the log on a public file share, Lotuselise will take a look at the log and might be able to decipher the problem.

It finally runs! It was the MAP sensor after all.
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Welp. It seem like nothing ever goes according to the plan.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Helmet Gas Rim


My head gasket seems to be leaking.
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You never took the head off, right? An external coolant leak from the head gasket seems odd. Is it coming from the coolant outlet assembly on the end of the head (above the transmission)?
You never took the head off, right?
That's right.


Is it coming from the coolant outlet assembly on the end of the head
Yep, it also leaks there. Mainly because I took it off and put it back on without replacing the gasket.
Yep, it also leaks there. Mainly because I took it off and put it back on without replacing the gasket.
At least that's a fairly easy fix!
What a silence :D!
Yep, it's kinda loud at the moment, but I already have a Fujitsubo axleback straight from Japan ready to go in along with a full 3 inch free flow exhaust.
But there's still more stuff to do. I'll be deleting the ABS, brake booster and heater core so I'm still waiting for parts to be shipped or released from customs.
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