[LotusElise]

this car? i

Yeah, this one. My Honda chassis knowledge is improvable .

 

[LotusElise]

245ish hp/165ftlbs and weights 2400lbs. (he has 45ish hp on me and is 300lbs lighter at this point in the race )

Clarifies the super pursuit mode.

 

[Them Witches]

245ish on race gas is not bad with the 4.7 FD and short 4,5,6 ... makes sense. the back straight and front straight are the main passing spots there.

this same exact back straight, I was shotgun while Brady Wooddell was pulling 5th to 155mph and getting into 6th. to 162mph. In order to stop he has to do triple down shifts and my body would still experience room in the 5pt harness - full weight 01 DC2R w/ 200 lb passenger. 4.3FD JRSC K20a2. Mid-way on the back be passed a 911 GT3 Cup at 125mph. That "driver" and car were something else together...with the IPS SC cams & race gas, Hytech header (non-intercooled) 340ish and 210wtq 9,000rpm on a 86x86 with tar sticky R6 compound tires gets the F down on track. The DC2R has such a low front end it moves well on the top end with tar sticky tires and correct springs.

Car has been sold. chassis has 16,000 miles with the Kswap. The B18C5 is in a CRX with a JRSC kit.

 

[JMURACN]

245ish on race gas is not bad with the 4.7 FD and short 4,5,6 ... makes sense. the back straight and front straight are the main passing spots there.

this same exact back straight, I was shotgun while Brady Wooddell was pulling 5th to 155mph and getting into 6th. to 162mph. In order to stop he has to do triple down shifts and my body would still experience room in the 5pt harness - full weight 01 DC2R w/ 200 lb passenger. 4.3FD JRSC K20a2. Mid-way on the back be passed a 911 GT3 Cup at 125mph. That "driver" and car were something else together...with the IPS SC cams & race gas, Hytech header (non-intercooled) 340ish and 210wtq 9,000rpm on a 86x86 with tar sticky R6 compound tires gets the F down on track. The DC2R has such a low front end it moves well on the top end with tar sticky tires and correct springs.

Car has been sold. chassis has 16,000 miles with the Kswap. The B18C5 is in a CRX with a JRSC kit.

within our rules... he's hitting 141mph in the EM1 and i'm hitting 133.1 (for now) on the back straight... no draft.

 

[JMURACN]

here is the one picture i have so far from the event... the photographer has kidney stones and has been slowed down a lot. The car was "okay" at this event but i'm always looking to get it where i want it... so i'm making major changes... against my usualy rule of change one thing at a time.

The last item on the P0340 sheet says to check the battery. Well thats the easiest thing for me to do... and low and behold the battery was extremely low. So i pulled the alternator to have it checked... sure enough it was bad.

luckily my back up alternator checked out (tested at the parts store) and is now in the car. The deep cycle is still charging... but i'll check delete the code and start the car to make sure this takes care of things.

next up... front spring change... i'm going to test a similar setup to what i ran on the old car. It goes against motion rations and all of that but in the end you have to make changes to how the car is acting and not straight math. right now... ALL 8th gen civic off the shelf coil over systems (that i have talked to... Redshift and Fortune auto) are based off of motion ratio and autox car feedback... NOT race car feedback.

yes... i took the time to clean these up a bit. Id hate to see what BCs look like on a car that is driven every day and sits outside... thats all i'm saing.

next up is to get the rear springs in and swap them in.... hopefully the big ASR bar i ordered also shows up.

 

[Them Witches]

within our rules... he's hitting 141mph in the EM1 and i'm hitting 133.1 (for now) on the back straight... no draft.

I was sharing that story because it is amazing what Honda engines can do. VIR is a fun track, we are lucky to be close to it.

 

[JMURACN]

Some people know... i'm not thrilled with the status quo, so i'm making drastic changes that no one else is doing in these cars.... but i got side tracked with some leaks this weekend.

this is not what you want to find when your car is on jackstands with the wheels off ... on BOTH fronts.

Its hard to see... but both are leaking at the donut gasket that mates the two halfs together. I replaced them but i might not have got them installed "just right" and with the higher pressures of racing... well they didnt last.

Next i found some "oil"... i'm not sure if its trans or motor oil... but i am pretty sure its motor oil.

Some of it is coming from the flywheel cover area... most of it actually. the main seal looked great and there was no signs of leaking when the motor was out of the car.. so i didnt replace it. that was a mistake i think. BUT this location is puzzling.... yes thats leaking from where the slave pushes the bearing rod on the trans. i'll clean this up and worry about it later.

Finally i got to what i was intending to do... this is a 6 inch spring in the rear (which had 4 inch springs)... there is zero adjustability left (to lower the car) SO i have a set of 5 inch springs coming.... why am i not buying 4 inch springs... WELL the 4 inch spring is too short and doesnt allow full droop (there isnt much in this chassis) because it comes unloaded... and not helpers arent strong enough to help in this case (i tired them)... so a slightly loaded longer spring will gain me another 1.25 (ish) inches of droop (this is the max droop because its limited by the sway bar).

Last night i was a little bored and we didnt need to cook (leftovers from the BBQ and all)... so i installed my race car AC... which will be wired into the same setup as my heater core (because i wont need heat and AC at the same time) and i will be able to swap between the two system with the change of 1 waterproof connector. I cut up (and welded on) a spare and unneeded bottom mount drivers side seat mount to hold my Engels cooler/cool suit setup.

we will be adjusting ride height and stuff as soon as the springs come in. rebuilding calipers begins tomorrow

 

[drtye]

That oily leak at the bell housing could it be excess grease from the clutch fork? Not a fun week of fixes... But some fun stuff mixed in at least.

 

[JMURACN]

i'm hoping to limp through the next event and then pull the trans when i have 6 weeks to deal with it.

 

[Them Witches]

i'm hoping to limp through the next event and then pull the trans when i have 6 weeks to deal with it.

good call. opening it up is costly and timely. time is money, life is expensive...

 

[JMURACN]

good call. opening it up is costly and timely. time is money, life is expensive...

i just know its "not that bad" of a leak right now... i have no time to do this and do any suspension changes... AND at worst case i oil down the old ass clutch i was going to replace this winter anyway... so i just replace it early.

 

[JMURACN]

to legally chase down camber and caster... i purchased (according to redshift owner Chris) the last set of these top hats... the next version that will be out in 6-8 weeks will not have adjustable caster but be in the "optimal" caster to camber area with adjustable camber.

 

[Them Witches]

How do you like the gearing on the Z3 tranny? I am thinking of picking one up for $1200, which is a steal in this market. I wanted to try the 4.7FD.

 

[JMURACN]

How do you like the gearing on the Z3 tranny? I am thinking of picking one up for $1200, which is a steal in this market. I wanted to try the 4.7FD.

it really depends on what you want to do with it.... that drives your FD selection. for what i do, the higher the better until you hit your potential top speed.

most people launch these in 2nd gear because they think 1st is useless... i dont find it that way, i just know i have to shift quickly in general.

if you are going to buy a trans and get into it... and you dont want to really worry about anything... cryo treat your gears, forks and sleeves... and low friction coat it all. its not cheap (and really not that expensive) but i'm not worried about my stuff lol.

personally in a street car i'd go with the 5.06FD with stock gears... but i'm more aggressive than most.

 

[JMURACN]

Ride height is set (raised it up 1/2-/34 of an inch)... new top hats are installed... cool suit switch is in... and the splitter is mostly finished (but i'm making a new blade next weekend)

The original top hats left some room in the strut tower and had wide spacing on the pinch bolt.

The new ones install much tighter to the strut tower.. and its is well thought out.

notice how the strut is clocked in the new top hats... that is a 30 degree clock (not 30* of caster) on the top hat, which is what Chris said he found to be optimal... and what the "new" top hats will be set to. The new hats wont be adjustable like these, but will be significantly cheaper because they will have much less machine work. See below:

that is 36 holes to adjust the struts orientation in the strut tower to get more caster.... 36x10 is 360... a 360* adjustment in 10 degree increments. Also note the 3 pinch bolt hole options that are spaced just enough to fit "max" camber in the car.

The cool suit just needs to get wired in and tested!

 

[JMURACN]

Well, the suspension bits are done and on the car... it slammed in to 4.5* on the new top hats... i'll be dialing some camber out now.

my next issue is one i thought i solved... during the last race a P0340 code (cam sensor A circuit code), additionally the battery light came on. the tech bulletin from honda did indicate low battery could cause this... i charged the battery, tested and replaced the bad alternator, cleared the code... fired up the car 4-5 times and it was gone.

I went to move the car saturday AND it came back... alternator and battery check out this time... I struggled testing the sensor and the harness (the sensor isnt activating from the tests i have conducted... but i also cant get a 12v constant on the harness)... so i ordered a replacement sensor (they are cheap enough) and i sourced a used harness on the cheap to see...

its always something

 

[Them Witches]

Ride height is set (raised it up 1/2-/34 of an inch)... new top hats are installed... cool suit switch is in... and the splitter is mostly finished (but i'm making a new blade next weekend)

The original top hats left some room in the strut tower and had wide spacing on the pinch bolt.
View attachment 108520

The new ones install much tighter to the strut tower.. and its is well thought out.
View attachment 108521

notice how the strut is clocked in the new top hats... that is a 30 degree clock (not 30* of caster) on the top hat, which is what Chris said he found to be optimal... and what the "new" top hats will be set to. The new hats wont be adjustable like these, but will be significantly cheaper because they will have much less machine work. See below:
View attachment 108522

that is 36 holes to adjust the struts orientation in the strut tower to get more caster.... 36x10 is 360... a 360* adjustment in 10 degree increments. Also note the 3 pinch bolt hole options that are spaced just enough to fit "max" camber in the car.

The cool suit just needs to get wired in and tested!
View attachment 108523

I am really digging those custom tophats and the idea of caster adjustments. I want to start building splitters at some point and starting buying sheets of carbonfiber in 2'x2' and 3'x2' pieces. One side of the sheet is finished and the other is raw which saves some money. I mean there are kits out there already in the $800-$1,000 range for the DC5 and I am good on that. I have a few big expenses coming soon - new tires and set of dedicated track coilovers something of your caliber. I bought the BC Racing BR Extreme drop and am running a 2" drop for street. The DC5 only needs a 1.25"- 1.50" drop for track at most. So I figured I would save up and buy a race coilover for SCAA/NASA schooling and they would last the life of the car b/c I do not plan on doing actual racing like yourself.

Something else bro, my buddy has so many extra sets of oem suspension parts for your car and my car. I am going to pick for cheap front and rear parts just to insert spherical bearings into them for the track, so I can switch from a street bushing to race bushing. The suspension parts are dirt cheap. If you are interested for replacement parts for your car let me know, my guy in Yorktown, VA has you covered. He also has extra body panels for your car etc etc.

 

[JMURACN]

I am really digging those custom tophats and the idea of caster adjustments. I want to start building splitters at some point and starting buying sheets of carbonfiber in 2'x2' and 3'x2' pieces. One side of the sheet is finished and the other is raw which saves some money. I mean there are kits out there already in the $800-$1,000 range for the DC5 and I am good on that. I have a few big expenses coming soon - new tires and set of dedicated track coilovers something of your caliber. I bought the BC Racing BR Extreme drop and am running a 2" drop for street. The DC5 only needs a 1.25"- 1.50" drop for track at most. So I figured I would save up and buy a race coilover for SCAA/NASA schooling and they would last the life of the car b/c I do not plan on doing actual racing like yourself.

Something else bro, my buddy has so many extra sets of oem suspension parts for your car and my car. I am going to pick for cheap front and rear parts just to insert spherical bearings into them for the track, so I can switch from a street bushing to race bushing. The suspension parts are dirt cheap. If you are interested for replacement parts for your car let me know, my guy in Yorktown, VA has you covered. He also has extra body panels for your car etc etc.

my buddy and fellow racer is pretty close to you... he has a cnc and all... he'll be making my sphericals... but i will need spare suspension parts to get them developed. i'll be in touch.

 

[Them Witches]

my buddy and fellow racer is pretty close to you... he has a cnc and all... he'll be making my sphericals... but i will need spare suspension parts to get them developed. i'll be in touch.

yeah let me know brother. It is like a pick and pull shop however those parts are normally laying around.

 

[Them Witches]

I just emailed BC racing to ask if they sold lower mounts for the coilovers that are interchangeable to adjust the height of the coilover and extend how much thread goes into the lower mount. This is for the BR series. I am not sure if the lower mounts work like that for height adjustment for their other coilovers. This would make the BR series extreme drop kits have more height adjustments.

I also asked to please keep me informed for open box sales on some of their top of the line coilovers.