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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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More info soon ...
Yes sir :D. Your AKA is interesting :D...RC Power, for what does it stand for?

Let me hear what you think.
Nice and good looking condition Euro Accord Like...I like those Rays wheels, model C28 isn't it?

I am curious about what modifications and tuning you did on the engine?

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My AKA is af an hobby of mine which I have for many years. I have this nickname for more than 12 years I guess.

The RC is from Remote Control, the hobby is RC cars which I like very much.


The motor is pretty much stock right now.
Want to put it on the dyno first how it is now. After that I will look further.
You can go so many ways with it.

But most important is that I want to fix on higher torque instead of putting more BHP out of it. Because it is a larger car and I think torque is the way to go with this one.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
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5,851 Posts
...The RC is from Remote Control, the hobby is RC cars which I like very much.
That's a nice hobby :D...combustion engine or electrical type?

...But most important is that I want to fix on higher torque instead of putting more BHP out of it. Because it is a larger car and I think torque is the way to go with this one.
As

Power = Torque * 2 * Pi * engine speed

and to overcome all that resistance forces: drag, roll, steep, acceleration holding your car back from being Batmobil you just need power at every single engine speed. The formula for that needed power at every single rpm can be stated like:

Power = (Forces of roll + drag + lift + accelaration) * vehicle speed

Concluding that, more torque everywhere will help to get the needed power for a certain engine task at lower engine speed. A higher displacement or a force induction will lift that power curve via higher torque everywhere...same engine task can be fullfilled at lower engine speeds. But formula tells you also a lighter car, with lighter rotational masses and better drag will give you the same...not thinking about doing both :D

Many concepts in between the K-Series with some nice mods (intake and exhaust manifold, cams, standalone ECU or emulator board like Hondata, tuning) for some 1000's €:
  • Going NA with Frankenstein: K24 block, K20 head...higher level 300 Nm/300 whp with the right setup
  • Going NA with a pure K24...higher level 260 Nm/250 whp
  • Going NA with a right designed K20 setup...higher level 230 Nm/250 whp
  • Going FI with a K20 via SC or TC...higher level 300 Nm (SC), 500 Nm (TC) power up to 800++ whp (TC)
(number's are just for classification, distribution is very high depending on setup mix, fuel, altitude, ...)

If I listen to your words I would do some research on supercharging via compressor (positive displacement or radial type) or if you like the NA sound checking out the K24 way.

Personally I love the high engine speed concept...speeding up to 9000 rpm... and the NA sound combined with a light chassis to have the right torque everywhere out of a K20 block :D

I am curious about it where your way will come down after you have tuned it. Good luck with it!
 
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