Here are the best Information about K motors
#1 Basic codes/Information about K motors.
Thank you.
The i-VTEC system found in the Honda K20Z3.The Honda K series engine is a four-cylinder otto cycle engine. It is available in 2.0 L and 2.4 L naturally-aspirated variants, and a 2.3 L turbocharged model.
The K series engines are all equipped with DOHC valvetrains with Honda's i-VTEC variable valve timing control.
Honda made this engine a big improvement over its older 4-cylinder engines by including friction-reducing technologies to reduce parasitic loss.
The K-series uses a DOHC valvetrain, which utilizes roller rockers to reduce friction. The VTEC system on engines like the K20A3 is only on the intake cam, and at low RPM when not engaged, allows the engine to function as a 12-valve engine, opening only one intake valve so that the air swirls for better combustion. This VTEC system was designed with fuel economy in mind. In engines like the K20A2 found in the RSX Type-S, The VTEC system always allows the motor to run as a 16-valve engine, and when VTEC engages, it's on both the intake and exhaust rockers, and opens all 4 valves even more at high RPM
The K-series motors all use DI or distributorless ignition. It uses a coil-on-plug system, in which each spark plug has its own coil atop it. This allows the ECU to send the spark exactly when it wants it and removes the need for spark plug wires.
A wide variety of aftermarket parts are available for the K engines, and tuners are finding that 240 and more bhp are available with routine modifications.
K Series
K20
K20A
Found in:
2001-2005 Honda Civic Type-R (EP3)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 212 hp (215 PS, 158 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 149 ft·lbf (202 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8400 rpm
2001-2006 Honda Integra Type-R (DC5)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 217 hp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8500 rpm
2002-2006 Honda Accord Euro-R
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 217 hp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8500 rpm
K20A2
Found in:
2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S and 2002-2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP, European)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 200 hp (147 kW) @ 7400 rpm
Torque: 142 ft·lbf (193 N·m) @ 6000 rpm
Redline: 8200 rpm
K20A3
Found in:
2002-2005 Honda Civic Si
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.8:1
Power: 155 hp* (119 kW) @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 139
2002-2006 Acura RSX
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.8:1
Power: 155 hp* (119 kW) @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf* (191 N·m) @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
(* Horsepower and torque calculations reflect new SAE J1349 procedures revised August 2004)
K20Z1
Found in:
2005-2006 Acura RSX-S
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 201 hp (150 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 140 ft·lbf (194 N·m) @ 7000 rpm (SAENET Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8200 rpm
K20Z2
Found in:
2006- Acura CSX (Canada)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm / 188 N·m @ 4200 rpm (Singapore)
Redline: 6800 rpm
2006- Honda Civic (JDM)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
2006- Honda Accord Sport(Europe)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
K20Z3
This inline-4-cylinder internal combustion engine is found in the redesigned Honda Civic Si. It has an aluminum block with aluminum heads, and a bore and stroke of 86 mm*86 mm, resulting in a 2.0 Liter displacement.
Found in:
2006+ Honda Civic Si
2007 Acura CSX Type-S
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 197 bhp (147 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 139 lb·ft (189 N·m) @ 6200 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8000 rpm
K23
K23A1
Turbocharged
Found in:
2007 Acura RDX
Displacement: 2300 cc (acura.com)
Compression: 8.8:1 (acura.com)
Power: 240 hp @ 6000 rpm (SAE net)
Torque: 260 ft·lbf @ 4500 rpm (SAE net)
Redline: 6800 (acura.com)
Bore: 86 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
K24
K24A1
Found in:
2002-2006 Honda CR-V
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 162 ft·lbf (220 N·m) @ 3600 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
K24A2
Found in:
2004-2006 Acura TSX
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 205 hp (149 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7100 rpm
K24A3
Found in:
2003-2006 Honda Accord (Europe, Japan, and Australia)
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 189 hp (140 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 164.5 ft·lbf (223 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7000 rpm
K24A4
Found in:
2003-2005 Honda Accord, 2003-2006 Honda Element
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.7:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 5500 rpm
Torque: 161 ft·lbf (218 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
K24A8
Found in:
2006/2007 Honda Accord
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.7:1
Power: 166 hp (124 kW) @ 6000 RPM
Torque: 160 ft·lbf @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
I'm going to update things about k motors and give you the best info that I can and also help you to get the most power out of your k motor.
Update 5/12/07
PART #2 How to break in a New engine..
One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be ready for tuning immediately. They will continue to seat better over a short period of time but you should be ready to go tune right away.
Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner. In the second position on the “things NOT to-do list” is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it. Too lean air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to-do list”? Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.
Well, I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well, what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your setup. It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time. The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.
So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpms between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.
But my engine was already tuned from my previous set-up. Well, what happened to your previous setup? Did you melt a stock piston or crack a cylinder? No problem because now you have forged pistons and sleeves? Wrong. Although you now have stronger components that will take more abuse, you are still not right on your air-fuel mixture. Get that thing tuned properly ASAP.
OK, I did it my way instead of yours and now I’m burning a lot of oil. What happened? Well, basically you scarred up the skirt of the piston, messed up the surface of the cylinder wall, and maybe even egg-shaped the cylinder. New pistons are tapered smaller on the top to larger at the bottom of the skirt. Your piston-to-wall clearance is measured at the bottom of the skirt. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the upper portion of the piston begins to expand slightly. The bottom of the skirt does not expand much. When you boost in a lean condition, the upper part of the piston expands quickly. Since the ring land area is cut smaller than the tapered skirt below it, the first part of the piston that pushes into the cylinder wall is just below the oil ring. Thus you will see the worst scarring on your piston right under the ring lands where the excess heat is the highest
The more heat that is generated, the harder the piston pushes into the cylinder wall. The uninformed would blame the piston damage on a bad piston-to-wall clearance. Untrue. If that were the problem, the damage would show up at the very bottom of the skirt. What has happened is that you have expanded your piston to the point that it has just ground itself into the cylinder wall. Keep expanding the piston by superheating it and it will push your cylinder egg-shaped and maybe even balloon out the cylinder slightly. At the same time, this is happening, your ring lands will begin to distort to where they will never seal properly again. Sometimes after doing this, the engine will still run but it will be a smoker. This all happens in a few seconds of high boost with a lean air-fuel ratio. Also, it can happen from 500 freeway miles of driving where the tune-up is off enough to build excess heat at a slower rate, thus doing the same damage over a longer period of time…but the end results are the same. Death to your pistons and cylinder walls.
OK, I’m just going to turn the fuel pressure way up and run extra fat, that way I won’t hurt anything. If you run too rich, you will “wash out” the rings. First, excess fuel will run down the cylinders taking the lubricating oil with it. This promotes direct metal-to-metal contact between the rings and the cylinder wall. This contact does several things. The upper ring begins to wear quickly. The middle ring is actually designed as a tapered oil scraper (it is not used for compression control at all) and the taper will begin to wear down to where it becomes flat rather than angled. When that happens, it can no longer control oil away from the combustion chamber. The last thing that happens is that the pretty cross-hatch design begins to wear off of the cylinder wall. While most people think that the cross hatch is there to help seat the rings, it also has a secondary purpose. That is to hold microscopic amounts of oil in the grooves to help lubricate the ring to cylinder walls. With the walls smooth and no oil control help from the middle ring and a tired upper ring, the oil will begin to mix with fuel in the combustion chamber. When this happens, your 93-octane fuel probably hits a value of about 80. Then detonation comes into play and begins to beat holes in the pistons, among other things.
So whom can I blame for this mess? The blind machinist that honed my piston to wall clearance? That poor quality Brand X piston manufacturer? The idiot pro engine builder that assembled my block? My ex-friend, that helped me put this all together? Those ignorant engineers that gave me a bad base map with my engine management system? The guy on the internet message board whose buddy knows that it takes at least 1000 miles of break-in before you can tune an engine properly? All of the above? Probably none of the above. Go look in a mirror and ask…who started this engine and had no idea what the air-fuel ratio was? Who just wanted to jump on it one time to see if it would haul? Who didn’t know that their injectors were at 100% duty cycle at 4000 rpm but they wanted to see how it would run at 6000 rpm? Why it was you. Get that thing tuned right away. You will notice that the more you drive a tuned motor, the stronger it will feel. This is just the rings seating in their final 5-10% as they thank you for tuning first.
Thank you, Earl.
#1 Basic codes/Information about K motors.
Thank you.
The i-VTEC system found in the Honda K20Z3.The Honda K series engine is a four-cylinder otto cycle engine. It is available in 2.0 L and 2.4 L naturally-aspirated variants, and a 2.3 L turbocharged model.
The K series engines are all equipped with DOHC valvetrains with Honda's i-VTEC variable valve timing control.
Honda made this engine a big improvement over its older 4-cylinder engines by including friction-reducing technologies to reduce parasitic loss.
The K-series uses a DOHC valvetrain, which utilizes roller rockers to reduce friction. The VTEC system on engines like the K20A3 is only on the intake cam, and at low RPM when not engaged, allows the engine to function as a 12-valve engine, opening only one intake valve so that the air swirls for better combustion. This VTEC system was designed with fuel economy in mind. In engines like the K20A2 found in the RSX Type-S, The VTEC system always allows the motor to run as a 16-valve engine, and when VTEC engages, it's on both the intake and exhaust rockers, and opens all 4 valves even more at high RPM
The K-series motors all use DI or distributorless ignition. It uses a coil-on-plug system, in which each spark plug has its own coil atop it. This allows the ECU to send the spark exactly when it wants it and removes the need for spark plug wires.
A wide variety of aftermarket parts are available for the K engines, and tuners are finding that 240 and more bhp are available with routine modifications.
K Series
K20
K20A
Found in:
2001-2005 Honda Civic Type-R (EP3)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 212 hp (215 PS, 158 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 149 ft·lbf (202 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8400 rpm
2001-2006 Honda Integra Type-R (DC5)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 217 hp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8500 rpm
2002-2006 Honda Accord Euro-R
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 217 hp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8500 rpm
K20A2
Found in:
2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S and 2002-2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP, European)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 200 hp (147 kW) @ 7400 rpm
Torque: 142 ft·lbf (193 N·m) @ 6000 rpm
Redline: 8200 rpm
K20A3
Found in:
2002-2005 Honda Civic Si
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.8:1
Power: 155 hp* (119 kW) @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 139
2002-2006 Acura RSX
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.8:1
Power: 155 hp* (119 kW) @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf* (191 N·m) @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
(* Horsepower and torque calculations reflect new SAE J1349 procedures revised August 2004)
K20Z1
Found in:
2005-2006 Acura RSX-S
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 201 hp (150 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 140 ft·lbf (194 N·m) @ 7000 rpm (SAENET Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8200 rpm
K20Z2
Found in:
2006- Acura CSX (Canada)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm / 188 N·m @ 4200 rpm (Singapore)
Redline: 6800 rpm
2006- Honda Civic (JDM)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
2006- Honda Accord Sport(Europe)
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
K20Z3
This inline-4-cylinder internal combustion engine is found in the redesigned Honda Civic Si. It has an aluminum block with aluminum heads, and a bore and stroke of 86 mm*86 mm, resulting in a 2.0 Liter displacement.
Found in:
2006+ Honda Civic Si
2007 Acura CSX Type-S
Displacement: 1998 cc
Compression: 11.0:1
Power: 197 bhp (147 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Torque: 139 lb·ft (189 N·m) @ 6200 rpm (SAE NET Rev 8/04)
Redline: 8000 rpm
K23
K23A1
Turbocharged
Found in:
2007 Acura RDX
Displacement: 2300 cc (acura.com)
Compression: 8.8:1 (acura.com)
Power: 240 hp @ 6000 rpm (SAE net)
Torque: 260 ft·lbf @ 4500 rpm (SAE net)
Redline: 6800 (acura.com)
Bore: 86 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
K24
K24A1
Found in:
2002-2006 Honda CR-V
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 162 ft·lbf (220 N·m) @ 3600 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
K24A2
Found in:
2004-2006 Acura TSX
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 205 hp (149 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7100 rpm
K24A3
Found in:
2003-2006 Honda Accord (Europe, Japan, and Australia)
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 10.5:1
Power: 189 hp (140 kW) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 164.5 ft·lbf (223 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 7000 rpm
K24A4
Found in:
2003-2005 Honda Accord, 2003-2006 Honda Element
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.7:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 5500 rpm
Torque: 161 ft·lbf (218 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
K24A8
Found in:
2006/2007 Honda Accord
Displacement: 2354 cc
Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
Compression: 9.7:1
Power: 166 hp (124 kW) @ 6000 RPM
Torque: 160 ft·lbf @ 4000 rpm
Redline: 6500 rpm
I'm going to update things about k motors and give you the best info that I can and also help you to get the most power out of your k motor.
Update 5/12/07
PART #2 How to break in a New engine..
One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be ready for tuning immediately. They will continue to seat better over a short period of time but you should be ready to go tune right away.
Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner. In the second position on the “things NOT to-do list” is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it. Too lean air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to-do list”? Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.
Well, I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well, what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your setup. It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time. The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.
So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpms between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.
But my engine was already tuned from my previous set-up. Well, what happened to your previous setup? Did you melt a stock piston or crack a cylinder? No problem because now you have forged pistons and sleeves? Wrong. Although you now have stronger components that will take more abuse, you are still not right on your air-fuel mixture. Get that thing tuned properly ASAP.
OK, I did it my way instead of yours and now I’m burning a lot of oil. What happened? Well, basically you scarred up the skirt of the piston, messed up the surface of the cylinder wall, and maybe even egg-shaped the cylinder. New pistons are tapered smaller on the top to larger at the bottom of the skirt. Your piston-to-wall clearance is measured at the bottom of the skirt. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the upper portion of the piston begins to expand slightly. The bottom of the skirt does not expand much. When you boost in a lean condition, the upper part of the piston expands quickly. Since the ring land area is cut smaller than the tapered skirt below it, the first part of the piston that pushes into the cylinder wall is just below the oil ring. Thus you will see the worst scarring on your piston right under the ring lands where the excess heat is the highest
The more heat that is generated, the harder the piston pushes into the cylinder wall. The uninformed would blame the piston damage on a bad piston-to-wall clearance. Untrue. If that were the problem, the damage would show up at the very bottom of the skirt. What has happened is that you have expanded your piston to the point that it has just ground itself into the cylinder wall. Keep expanding the piston by superheating it and it will push your cylinder egg-shaped and maybe even balloon out the cylinder slightly. At the same time, this is happening, your ring lands will begin to distort to where they will never seal properly again. Sometimes after doing this, the engine will still run but it will be a smoker. This all happens in a few seconds of high boost with a lean air-fuel ratio. Also, it can happen from 500 freeway miles of driving where the tune-up is off enough to build excess heat at a slower rate, thus doing the same damage over a longer period of time…but the end results are the same. Death to your pistons and cylinder walls.
OK, I’m just going to turn the fuel pressure way up and run extra fat, that way I won’t hurt anything. If you run too rich, you will “wash out” the rings. First, excess fuel will run down the cylinders taking the lubricating oil with it. This promotes direct metal-to-metal contact between the rings and the cylinder wall. This contact does several things. The upper ring begins to wear quickly. The middle ring is actually designed as a tapered oil scraper (it is not used for compression control at all) and the taper will begin to wear down to where it becomes flat rather than angled. When that happens, it can no longer control oil away from the combustion chamber. The last thing that happens is that the pretty cross-hatch design begins to wear off of the cylinder wall. While most people think that the cross hatch is there to help seat the rings, it also has a secondary purpose. That is to hold microscopic amounts of oil in the grooves to help lubricate the ring to cylinder walls. With the walls smooth and no oil control help from the middle ring and a tired upper ring, the oil will begin to mix with fuel in the combustion chamber. When this happens, your 93-octane fuel probably hits a value of about 80. Then detonation comes into play and begins to beat holes in the pistons, among other things.
So whom can I blame for this mess? The blind machinist that honed my piston to wall clearance? That poor quality Brand X piston manufacturer? The idiot pro engine builder that assembled my block? My ex-friend, that helped me put this all together? Those ignorant engineers that gave me a bad base map with my engine management system? The guy on the internet message board whose buddy knows that it takes at least 1000 miles of break-in before you can tune an engine properly? All of the above? Probably none of the above. Go look in a mirror and ask…who started this engine and had no idea what the air-fuel ratio was? Who just wanted to jump on it one time to see if it would haul? Who didn’t know that their injectors were at 100% duty cycle at 4000 rpm but they wanted to see how it would run at 6000 rpm? Why it was you. Get that thing tuned right away. You will notice that the more you drive a tuned motor, the stronger it will feel. This is just the rings seating in their final 5-10% as they thank you for tuning first.
Thank you, Earl.