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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...k24 being the best for al motor build and the k20 for a turbo build...
Hi Gabe, I am building a NA'd 86.5x86 engine (K20A2 basis), aming for 250+ whp. Building means here: costume parts for IM, H, coolant and oil circuit and cylinder head (port and valve seat design), further forged crank assembly parts, lightened flywheel and so on.

The same or higher peak power you can reach with an NA setup combination of K24 block/K20 head combination, adequat cams, CAI, RRC IM, H, E at a just better torque curve and a 10th of cost.

The double and even higher of that you can reach with just a TC'd stock longblock (K20 or K24) and an adapted exhaust and intake (stock IM)...lowest cost per power ratio if tuning is of highest quality, which is a duty allways and here especially :D.

I still don't know what you are aiming for...but if you want to boost it, take the K20Z3/Z4/A2/A of your friend mount a turbo charger kit on it and go to tune it (adaption of chassis, tyres, brakes, ... = duty). That's the easiest way...

Concerning the type K20A/A2/Z1/Z3/Z4, these are all iVTEC engines of CR's ≥ 11.0:1 and of around stock 200 flwhp and a perfect basis for everything. All others like the K20A3 have limitations like reduced head flow performance and efficiency trimmed valvetrain, which maybe are still good within a TC setup but not worth the money for NA engine setups. There exists a massive amount of information here at K20a.org to this...

:google:

Markus
 

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...k24 being the best for al motor build and the k20 for a turbo build...
Hi Gabe, I am building a NA'd 86.5x86 engine (K20A2 basis), aming for 250+ whp. Building means here: costume parts for IM, H, coolant and oil circuit and cylinder head (port and valve seat design), further forged crank assembly parts, lightened flywheel and so on.



The same or higher peak power you can reach with an NA setup combination of K24 block/K20 head combination, adequat cams, CAI, RRC IM, H, E at a just better torque curve and a 10th of cost.

The double and even higher of that you can reach with just a TC'd stock longblock (K20 or K24) and an adapted exhaust and intake (stock IM)...lowest cost per power ratio if tuning is of highest quality, which is a duty allways and here especially
.

I still don't know what you are aiming for...but if you want to boost it, take the K20Z3/Z4/A2/A of your friend mount a turbo charger kit on it and go to tune it (adaption of chassis, tyres, brakes, ... = duty). That's the easiest way...

Concerning the type K20A/A2/Z1/Z3/Z4, these are all iVTEC engines of CR's ≥ 11.0:1 and of around stock 200 flwhp and a perfect basis for everything. All others like the K20A3 have limitations like reduced head flow performance and efficiency trimmed valvetrain, which maybe are still good within a TC setup but not worth the money for NA engine setups. There exists a massive amount of information here at K20a.org to this...



Markus
Thanks for the input and we'll my ambitions are to get a K20 rip it apart install all forged internals bore the cylinder if needed and buy all performance parts I wanna take my time on the engine build then maybe a garret bolt on turbo .? I'm not sure yet as I'm fairly new to a turbo set up, then I want to completely gut a e.g. Hatch shell and paint it and swap the engine over But you pointed me in a good direction Markus now another thing do you know how hard it is to convert the k20 wording Barnes over to the e.g. Harness.?
 

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Please excuse me as I have searched but can't find the answer:

I'm designing my own ITB kit and have the throttle bodies I will be using. I have found a K20A6 (euro accord K20) head for sale which I was hoping to use for a mock up for the adapter plate etc - however I'm not sure if the ports would be the same shape and size as the A2 which would be used eventually.

Again, apologies if this has been covered before, I couldn't find it!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...however I'm not sure if the ports would be the same shape and size as the A2 which would be used eventually...
The stock K20A2 intake ports are roughly 38 mm high and 52 mm broad. As they are formed as Circle plus Rectangular, the radius = 19 mm accordingly to the 38 mm height. This is just a rough thumb number, the exact geometry is more complex, as it has a two radius system of 19.3 and 18.1 mm...but this don't matters to clarify if the K20A6 and A2 ports are the same.

Please let us know what you did measure, as I don't know the ports of the K20
A6.

Markus
 

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The stock K20A2 intake ports are roughly 38 mm high and 52 mm broad. As they are formed as Circle plus Rectangular, the radius = 19 mm accordingly to the 38 mm height. This is just a rough thumb number, the exact geometry is more complex, as it has a two radius system of 19.3 and 18.1 mm...but this don't matters to clarify if the K20A6 and A2 ports are the same.

Please let us know what you did measure, as I don't know the ports of the K20
A6.

Markus
Thank you for this! As the price of the A6 head is so reasonable, I will buy it anyway and line up an A2 inlet manifold gasket for reference.

I will CAD up an accurate layout once this is done and share it. May be a few weeks however as I have to pay for a track day this weekend!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...As the price of the A6 head is so reasonable, I will buy it anyway and line up an A2 inlet manifold gasket for reference....
Ah, you haven't a K20A6 head actually, now I understand your situation.

I already designed an intake manifold (plenum) for my K20A2 race engine (hill climb application). I did the complete design work, as a lot of innovations flowed into that IM. But if you are build state of the art ITB's you can purchase intake flanges and intake flanges plus short straight runners, which are already available at Haywood (US) and Jenvey (UK), no need to build that part if you don't have a special clearance issue. Are you going to do the cut work yourself with your own CNC machine?
 

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Are you going to do the cut work yourself with your own CNC machine?
I have purchased some BMW S65 (E92 M3) throttle bodies and plan to design and machine an adapter plate for them to run them on a K20 head.

Currently I am still waiting for the TBs to arrive (ebay sellers!) but once they are with me I will start working on a design in my spare time. The machine work will be done by a friend, who can also prototype them for me which will save me a lot of money in case we encounter any issues.

There are still a lot of unconfirmed things, such as if the BMW throttle bodies will line up with the K series ports as they are currently - I can't yet confirm if they're in a fixed position along the rail they come on.

Once I have everything to hand I will make a thread documenting the design. I'm only really doing it as a challenge to myself rather than to make money or anything. The intention is to make it a bolt-up affair, no welding required.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I have purchased some BMW S65 (E92 M3) throttle bodies...
This is a very nice BMW high speed concept engine, one of the last of BMW. Of course it can't beat a K20 engine in specific values, but it is still nice, especially because of the double VANOS valve system...lecker-schmecker :D.

There are still a lot of unconfirmed things, such as if the BMW throttle bodies will line up with the K series ports as they are currently - I can't yet confirm if they're in a fixed position along the rail they come on.
The won't match properly to the K20A2 head, as the port design is wider and therefore lower in height. See the following picture:

E90 M3 ITB.jpg

It shows the head side of the S65 V8 ITB's.

Once I have everything to hand I will make a thread documenting the design. I'm only really doing it as a challenge to myself rather than to make money or anything. The intention is to make it a bolt-up affair, no welding required.
That is a very good idea, I would love to see it happen...challenging task indeed!
 

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That is a very good idea, I would love to see it happen...challenging task indeed!
Thank you!

If I can't split the throttle bodies apart from their rail (which holds them together and possibly a sensor) I may have to make them divert slightly. Of course the performance would be affected but hopefully not by much. I will cross that hurdle when I get to it!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...Of course the performance would be affected but hopefully not by much.
You can reduce it with an proper run-in length to adapt the different shapes and find a compromise between clearance for the trumpets and run-in length. Other point would be if the cross section area covers it, to cut it a bit to have a bigger height. Best would be to cut them cross sectional before the TB, where they are circular, adaption of that you will have anyway.
 

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You can reduce it with an proper run-in length to adapt the different shapes and find a compromise between clearance for the trumpets and run-in length. Other point would be if the cross section area covers it, to cut it a bit to have a bigger height. Best would be to cut them cross sectional before the TB, where they are circular, adaption of that you will have anyway.
I get what you mean, yeah that's a good idea. All depends on the differences between the two. They are arriving today so I will be sure to have a good look. If I get a chance I might try and pick up a K20 inlet gasket today too so that I can start checking.

Apologies to everyone else for hijacking this thread.

LotusElise I will PM you when I have some more information!
 

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Hello my name is Robert i just bought a 07 Accord EXL Coupe 5 speed manual K24A8 plan on K24A2 head swap any info and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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A buddy told me that if i was to drop a kseries engine in an el 1.6 i'd lose my power steering, why and what could i do to prevent it or get back my power steering?
 

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Can any of u guys who have any ideas check out my discussion about my surging idle it’s call : help ep3 surging idle. U should be able to find it
 

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You would lose it because none of your power steering hoses would match up to the new power steering pump. You can easily get around this though by getting custom lines.
 
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