[killer_dc2]

I've been doing my swap for a while now And I finally got my car running the other day. Runs and starts up fine, idle needs adjusting but other than that it sounds good! I have got rid of all my error codes in kpro and now I'm left with bleeding the coolant. So I tried today with no luck. The car still gets hot 216 degrees and it climbs if I'd let it. I noticed that my lower coolant hose it not getting hot so my thermostat isn't opening. Any idea why it's not opening? The thermostat and housing are brand new! This is in a k24a2 with a half sized mishimoto rad.

 

[Mr. KDes]

have you bled the coolant system yet OP?

with the help of the search button, there are ample threads in here with similar situations and results.

 

[killer_dc2]

Not sure if this is right but I wasn't sure what to do with the coolant port coming off of that black metal pipe going to heater and the on coming off the top of the upper coolant neck. I have the iacv blocked off.

 

[Mr. KDes]

I did that, its a loop. You're pretty much recirculating coolant like that. nothing wrong with it.


have you tried bleeding your coolant system? i.e jacking the car up, tapping off the radiator with coolant,letting the car run, letting the air bubbles bleed out, etc?

 

[snizzletoff]

Edit

 

[killer_dc2]

Yes I did try to bleeding it. However if i let if run after it reaches 200 degrees it climbs pretty fast and I get a engine light because kpro setting for over heating is set at 220. So I shut the car off. The temp gauge gets to halfway. Should I let it run longer?

 

[killer_dc2]

Will all the air bubble come out even though the thermostat isn't opening?

 

[vdubkilla]

Jack the car up as high as possible in the front . If you can find a funnel that fits snug in the rad neck use that or trim it to fit in there snug then run the car and keep antifreeze filled into the funnel 1/2 way up let it run and it should bubble the air out of the system .You may end up having to use a turkey baster or something to pull the excess a/f out of the funnel once the system is bled but it has worked for me a few times in the past doing this method.

 

[killer_dc2]

I did jack the car up. My drive way slants downward, so what I did was rolled the car back untill it was half on back half was on street and the front was still on drive way. Basically what I did was use the slant to get the front of my car as high as possibly in the air. The coolant was just spitting out everywhere. . The rad stays full to the top it doesn't seem like its circulating. Like stated before I don't think my thermostat is opening.

 

[snizzletoff]

I did jack the car up. My drive way slants downward, so what I did was rolled the car back untill it was half on back half was on street and the front was still on drive way. Basically what I did was use the slant to get the front of my car as high as possibly in the air. The coolant was just spitting out everywhere. . The rad stays full to the top it doesn't seem like its circulating. Like stated before I don't think my thermostat is opening.

Continuously squeeze the rad hoses, you may have an air pocket at the thermostat. These engines are stout you can take it to 220-225* briefly if needed. If it's still not opening you may need a new one. As vdubkiller said get a funnel that sticks in the rad filler neck so you can over fill it a bit when the thermostat actually opens it will suck in coolant fast and the temps will stay steady

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[vdubkilla]

Did you also try filling the block by pulling the top hose then quickly re installing it trying not to lose much coolant ? It helps. I have not had the issues in a while as I have a custom filler neck but I think most of us have had these issues when we first did our swaps .Is the bottom hose cold ? You could pull the t stat and drill a few small holes in it as well .I actually had (6) 1/8 inch holes drilled in my 185 degree stat and didn't have any issues with it .

 

[killer_dc2]

I did search before i made this thread. i saw that a lot of people had this problem. from what i read it seemed like some people took the whole thermostat out or dilled holes like you suggested. but.... Yea the bottom hose is cold. I will try to drill some holes and see how that goes tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[killer_dc2]

Continuously squeeze the rad hoses, you may have an air pocket at the thermostat. These engines are stout you can take it to 220-225* briefly if needed. If it's still not opening you may need a new one. As vdubkiller said get a funnel that sticks in the rad filler neck so you can over fill it a bit when the thermostat actually opens it will suck in coolant fast and the temps will stay steady

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The thermostat and housing are brand new. I'm going to try drilling the holes like vdubkilla suggested

 

[k20jonny]

Idk if the slant is steep enough. Pretty much the radiator cap has to sit higher than the engine head. Jack it up and squeeze the hoses so the coolants goes in the engine, fill the radiator as meeded and start the engine. Let it run for 45 mins and squeeze the hoses every 5mins or so or when u see the coolant getting low. Also is ur fan turning on? And is ur fan installed correctly (pulling air not pushing)?

 

[killer_dc2]

Fan turns on I have it set in kpro for 185 and it is pulling air and blowing in the direction of the engine. With the slant I have the car jacked up. The slat I figured would help me get it higher than on level ground. The coolant isn't circulating the rad stays full I can not add anymore. If i let it sit it reaches 220 degrees very quickly and it continues to rise. At that point I shut the car off because kpro throws a cell for overheating.

 

[snizzletoff]

Fan turns on I have it set in kpro for 185 and it is pulling air and blowing in the direction of the engine. With the slant I have the car jacked up. The slat I figured would help me get it higher than on level ground. The coolant isn't circulating the rad stays full I can not add anymore. If i let it sit it reaches 220 degrees very quickly and it continues to rise. At that point I shut the car off because kpro throws a cell for overheating.

That's a bit low to kick the fans on that may be your issue

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[killer_dc2]

What is a goo temp,195- 200?

 

[snizzletoff]

What is a goo temp,195- 200?

Yeah that would be good, if you want it lower after bleeding that's your call

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[vdubkilla]

I'd set the fans at 185 but it may also help if ya unplug them temporarily til the system is bled to help get the car warmed up enough to help open the t- stat.I have had very experienced tuners set my fans as low as 155 in my turbo K. A good temp well I say 185-195 is near perfect from what I have logged in my car but it varies a bit when ya run the piss out of it or sit in traffic and when its real hot out .

 

[killer_dc2]

Ok so along with drilling some holes in the thermostat ill higher the fan and see where I sit. Thanks guys! I am very anxious to drive my car!