[Rocket1498]

It cranks but doesn’t start. I don't smell fuel from he spark plugs which are also new.

I have a 2000 Honda Civic ej,ek or em (EX trim) K20A2 swap(NO K-PRO)

Everything is hooked up and fuel is good and holding right pressure, immobilizer bypass installed, fuel pump primes loud, 3 grounds on, wiring seems okay but haven't checked voltage yet, and battery is relocated in the back with 0 gauge wires. All connection seems okay and tight, all wirings I’ve gone through i did the tug test. No leaks with fuel lines. I’ve recently read about the coilpacks not getting enough voltage so I will check that tomorrow after I charge the battery as the battery has died.

P.S. ABS AND SRS are deleted but there are wires hanging in the cabin that i chose not to hook up, Just throwing that out there I dont think it matters or relevant but I don’t know.

 

[Dango]

Use a multimeter and verify you get 12v to your injectors while cranking. I was having this issue and i was using a wire that only had 12v while in the on position but not while cranking.

 

[Rocket1498]

Use a multimeter and verify you get 12v to your injectors while cranking. I was having this issue and i was using a wire that only had 12v while in the on position but not while cranking.

Just getting batteries for the multimeter and will do that and coilpacks as well.

But how could it end up with issues like this if everything was just swapped straight in terms of wiring and harnesses? Only modification I’ve done with wiring are the fusebox relocation (in glove box, same wiring and thickness of wire), battery relocation (0 gauge wire that I’ve ran since my B series), Hybrid Racing Conversion harness, K-Tuned Immobilizer Bypass.

P.S. PRB ECU is stock, no K-Pro nor flashing.

 

[Dango]

I'm not sure but its worth verifying. Only thing that makes it run is air, fuel, spark. If you can verify those then it must be something else.

 

[bonkers323]

It cranks but doesn’t start. I don't smell fuel from he spark plugs which are also new.

I have a 2000 Honda Civic ej,ek or em (EX trim) K20A2 swap(NO K-PRO)

Everything is hooked up and fuel is good and holding right pressure, immobilizer bypass installed, fuel pump primes loud, 3 grounds on, wiring seems okay but haven't checked voltage yet, and battery is relocated in the back with 0 gauge wires. All connection seems okay and tight, all wirings I’ve gone through i did the tug test. No leaks with fuel lines. I’ve recently read about the coilpacks not getting enough voltage so I will check that tomorrow after I charge the battery as the battery has died.

P.S. ABS AND SRS are deleted but there are wires hanging in the cabin that i chose not to hook up, Just throwing that out there I dont think it matters or relevant but I don’t know.

check all of your ground cables ! I was actually missing one which is why it couldn’t cross over.
What I do to check injectors is just pull them out with the fuel rail and point them towards a cloth / cardboard and crank the car. You’ll see if they’re throwing fuel out

 

[Rocket1498]

I'm not sure but its worth verifying. Only thing that makes it run is air, fuel, spark. If you can verify those then it must be something else.

Okay so I just did all my voltage test. Coilpack, Injectors, Cam and Crank Sensors are reading 12.xx volts. I also checked the ground wires on the conversion harness all reading fine. Added 1 more ground wire but still no start just crank.

 

[Rocket1498]

check all of your ground cables ! I was actually missing one which is why it couldn’t cross over.
What I do to check injectors is just pull them out with the fuel rail and point them towards a cloth / cardboard and crank the car. You’ll see if they’re throwing fuel out

So I wired the injectors and all four fires perfectly. I have 4 grounds right now, I've moved through testing voltages and all reads fine except for one in the cabin but I fixed that and it is now reading 12.06V. Everything is now reading 12.06V.

I am moving towards the theory that it might be my signal wires or ignition switch. I double checked all wires on C101 and the conversion harness and they all look fine. Positive (YELLOW WITH WHITE STRIPE) wire is very functional.

Does anybody know lots about thorough injectors and ignition wirings?

Also, when I got my friend to crank it up while I tap the injectors manually to fire, that was the only time I saw my spark plugs wet. It is a fact that connected on its original wiring which is being plugged is not working at all.

 

[Dango]

Did you check the signal wire while cranking? With my issue I had 12v while the key was in the on position but not while I was cranking.

 

[Rocket1498]

Did you check the signal wire while cranking? With my issue I had 12v while the key was in the on position but not while I was cranking.

Both I've tested it but it is running now!

 

[Rocket1498]

UPDATE: It runs! Turns out it was my K-Tuned Immobilizer Bypass pin! It was very hard to tell that its not in all the way because you wont see the metal pin sticking out. So just looking at all the wires they all look plugged right but when I decided to take step back and double check everything I have touched, when I unplugged that to check I noticed on the face of Connector E, I noticed that it was bit backed up compared to the other pins. Pushed that further and it turned over in a second! Mind you, the conversion harness Connector E was so new and fresh that it was really tight that it felt like it passed my tug test.

FIX: Conversion Harness and Immobilizer Bypass wiring, by fixing pin.

 

[Dango]

That's awesome. Glad you got it.