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Help!!! Dtc P0335

24K views 55 replies 11 participants last post by  Them Witches 
Not the wiring checked it ran before never changed anything.Im getting 5 volts at the signal wire and 12v at the other 2 wires.Only thing that got messed with was when someone told me to change the crank sensor for the cam sensor becasue my car wasnt starting.Well i noticed the sensors were different and then i put them back in,thats when and only when i got the code for crankshaft position sensor no signal.Well my car still starts but only revs to 3k.I never messed with the harness only the sensors.
What exactly did you do with the cam and crank sensors? Did yo change them like, replaced them. Your problem started there right?
 
Was the crank sensor new? And the cam sensors you mentioned taking out were the two TDC sensors on the side of the head right (they are identical BTW)? Who told you to switch those for the crank sensor. :hammer: Just trying to re-trace what was done and why...
 
OK, so the two TDC sensors are fine and are the originals, they can't be mixed up because they are the exactly the same sensor. As for the crank sensor you def have either a wiring (you say its fine) or sensor issue (you tried a used one... hmmm) If you have a friend with a K20A2 engine try your sensor in his car. If he gets a code for it you'll need a new sensor. If his engine works fine with no CEL, you know your problem is wiring/electrical related. That would be my next step...
 
This is with the wire side of the plug facing us:

Blue / Brown / Yel/Blk

Signal / Ground / Power

to ecu / to V/C / to power junction

Only time you should have twelve volts in the other two pins is when the engine is running and the CKP plugged in . If you have the CKP unplugged you better have ground in the center pin.
 
No you have 12v when the key is turned on.You get 12v at the Yel/Blk wire with body ground and then you also get 12v at Yel/Blk and Brn/Yel(plug 2 and 3)
I realize that. The power will be on both the yel/blk (power) and brn/yel (ground) only because the circuit is complete. Basically what I want you to be sure of, is that there is no power at brn/wht (ground) with the CKP unplugged.
 
You mean brn/yel which leads to junction C104.Im pretty sure im not getting power at that wire but i will double check tomorrow as its 1am and 40 degrees out right now.What if i am getting power there.What would that indicate.
I believe that junction C104 is the manifold ground, most guys move the ground up on the center valve cover bolt (Hondata recommendation). If there is no ground for the sensor the sensor won't work period. I'm pretty sure this will be fine though, its good to review this anyway...

Check your ground with the CKP unplugged and if that checks out, put your sensor on another running K20A2 engine. That will def. tell you where the problem is.
 
No sir the ground to the manifold is G101.G101 is the ground that Hondata says to move to the VC. Alright ill have to check out everything tomorrow again.
Just make certain that the center pin on the crank sensor (brown/yel) is the ground. It will show continuity to the valve cover gound, I just checked it on my harness for you last night. :confused:
 
You should only have 12V at the yel/blk wire when you connect to a ground with the ignition on. You should have continuity if you connect the brn/yel to a ground, but no voltage.

Like Mike mentioned yel/blk is power, brn/yel is ground, and blu is signal.
This is what I was getting at. Stern has made it more clear. Test for continuity to ground on the brn/yel wire as above. I tested mine to the V/C for you.
 
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