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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My swap was just finished yesterday, I did a K20A2 into a 95 EG, everything with the car seemed fine and when we went to go for a test drive the car would not go into gear. Before putting the motor in we installed a brand new ACT Pro-lite flywheel, Xtreme PP and Street disc. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the car still won't go into gear. When the car is started with the clutch pedal fully depressed it starts to move forward right away. The pedal is fine itself and I just installed a new master cylinder. Is anyone here using this combo and have you had any problems with it? Any insight would be greatly apprecieated.
 

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that is exactly what i am planning to do unless i change my mind, and except for the flywheel, sorry for being off topic but hows pedal pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
NAturalDC2 said:
that is exactly what i am planning to do unless i change my mind, and except for the flywheel, sorry for being off topic but hows pedal pressure?
Pedal pressure is really good, not to firm but just right. I just can't get the thing to disengage so I would wait on this one if I were you. Is there anyone who can help? Some one must be running this setup.
 

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this may sound obvoius, but I am assuming the clutch is 100% blead?

they can be a bit of a pain for retaining air in the slave cyl...

if you watch the clutch slave, how far is it moving when the clutch pedal is fully depressed?

I have used several ACT clutches without issue, only think to note is the pedal pressure required is somewhat higher and the clutch bit is over a much smaller range of pedal travel.
 

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Scuffers said:
this may sound obvoius, but I am assuming the clutch is 100% blead?

they can be a bit of a pain for retaining air in the slave cyl...

if you watch the clutch slave, how far is it moving when the clutch pedal is fully depressed?

I have used several ACT clutches without issue, only think to note is the pedal pressure required is somewhat higher and the clutch bit is over a much smaller range of pedal travel.
this was something that came to my mind as well. hopefully its nothing more serious than that...

i was thinking about getting an act clutch as well thats why.
 

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808 JDM EG6 said:
this was something that came to my mind as well. hopefully its nothing more serious than that...

i was thinking about getting an act clutch as well thats why.
isnt the DC5R an exedy clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Scuffers said:
this may sound obvoius, but I am assuming the clutch is 100% blead?

they can be a bit of a pain for retaining air in the slave cyl...

if you watch the clutch slave, how far is it moving when the clutch pedal is fully depressed?

I have used several ACT clutches without issue, only think to note is the pedal pressure required is somewhat higher and the clutch bit is over a much smaller range of pedal travel.
The system was 100% blead and when the pedal is fully depressed there is normal movement with the slave. Have you used this exact same combo? Thanks for the reply.
 

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I have the same combo on my car...pedal opens and closes the clutch fine.. It sounds like the plate is sticking to the disk..Is this a new clutch or have you driven on it before???The reason Im asking is because If the clutch is not broken in properly it will crack the pressure plat I have done it before....This causes the clutch to do exactly what you are describing ...hopefully yours is fine...double check the slave cylinder..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
11sec CR-X said:
I have the same combo on my car...pedal opens and closes the clutch fine.. It sounds like the plate is sticking to the disk..Is this a new clutch or have you driven on it before???The reason Im asking is because If the clutch is not broken in properly it will crack the pressure plat I have done it before....This causes the clutch to do exactly what you are describing ...hopefully yours is fine...double check the slave cylinder..
These are all brand new components with 0 miles on them. I could not get the car in gear because the clutch would not disengage. How does your pedal feel and how far up is the release point? Is it supposed to be a lot different than stock in terms of master cylinder adjustment? We took the tranny out of the car and removed the ACT parts, upon inspection they are all perfect. Is it possible they did not machine the step in the flywheel properly or is there another adjustment I am missing.

Thanks
 

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I find that once blead, the over-centre point is not far from the top of the pedal (as in only a small amount of pedal travel required).

it could just be sticking as said, but a few sec's slipage will sort this, that said, none of the ones I have seen/done have exibited this problem.

when you say full movement, exactly how much at slave?

also, can you feel it go over-centre?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Scuffers said:
I find that once blead, the over-centre point is not far from the top of the pedal (as in only a small amount of pedal travel required).

it could just be sticking as said, but a few sec's slipage will sort this, that said, none of the ones I have seen/done have exibited this problem.

when you say full movement, exactly how much at slave?

also, can you feel it go over-centre?
I will try to measure how much movement there is at the slave, I feels like it is going over centre when depressed. When I talked to the ACT tech support the guy told me that once you adjust the pedal at the master you have to tweak the slave as well? Do you know if you are able to adjust the slave cylinder? Thanks Scuffers.
 

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LCDC5 said:
I will try to measure how much movement there is at the slave, I feels like it is going over centre when depressed. When I talked to the ACT tech support the guy told me that once you adjust the pedal at the master you have to tweak the slave as well? Do you know if you are able to adjust the slave cylinder? Thanks Scuffers.

err - I can't think what they are talking about??

the slave is nnot adjustable in any way?

if you can feel the clutch go over centre and still have some pedal travel *after* this, and it's still not dis-engaging, you would appear to have a problem.

try putting the front on stands, running the engine in 1st, then with your foot on the clutch, use the brakes to stop the wheels, if this does not work, then it's gearbox off again time and find out what's going on...
 

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This is what is happening:

I can adjust the pedal so that it JUST disengages, but there is a very fine line between it not disengaging enough to allow shifting, and disengaging to the point where the fingers on the PP are actually making contact with the hub springs.
This can be heard at idle when I push the clutch pedal to the floor.
The step seems to be correct, I only took a quick measurement with my vernier to confrim its at least close to spec.
spec=0.045
measured=0.048
Only difference is that we are using an aftermarket m/c..... the numbers on the side of it say 17, I am starting to think its the bore in mm.
If this is true, then things start to make sense....
aftermarket m/c bore= 0.67
oem m/c bore= 0.625 (5/8 as per stamping on oem m/c)
The effective pedal travel is under 2"! It engages as soon as you move your foot off the floor.
Look at the pics, you can see where the pp fingers were contacting the hub springs.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v93/brekekex/

-Thomas
 

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Have to say I am somewhat lost at this....

to push the fingers far enough to reach the springs on the plate implies that something is just not right...

at a guess all I can thinkof is that the plate is too thick and the cluch cover cannot move far enough away to clear it??

whatever, if you are shure this is what is happening, then it's going to have to come off and look at it again. don't forget that it could be the flywheel that's at fault if the running surface is the wrong hight relative to to the clutch cover...

Simon
 

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I am somewhat unsure also..... but this is definitely whats happening:

I have now switched to a brand new OEM clutch master as the aftermarket one had a larger bore.
Problem remains; with pedal adjusted to stock freeplay, the clutch simply disengages too far. Only way to get it to work, is to adjust it so nearly if not more than half of the master cylinder piston travel is not acting on the slave.
Again there is that fine line of adjustment between the clutch not disengaging enough, or disengaging to the point where the plate fingers rub against the hub springs.
ACTman has looked at my pics (same as in the link I posted above) and said he sees nothing wrong.

I measured the step on the flywheel, and it seems to be very near spec.

This problem is simply not going away, and I find it hard to believe that there are other people with this setup who have the same issue and learned to live with it....

Thanks for your input, anything helps right about now.
I think we will switch to an OEM setup, and if that works correctly... :dance:
and a big :down: to ACT if that is the case.

-Thomas
 

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got to say, this is sounding more and more like a flywheel issue than the clutch....

what I am thinking is that the flywheel friction surface is too high above the clutch cover locating bolts, so that when the cover is bolted up, the cover spring is compressed too much, leaving insufficent travel left to dis-engage the clutch. (this is the same effect as putting in a friction plate that's too thick for the cover)

if this is the case, then it would imply that the flywheel is the wrong one for that type of clutch.

got any pics of the flywheel from the side so we can see the step?
 

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well I have a similar problem in my race car, although it isnt from any of the above problems and the adjustment wont make it go away. But I have learnt to drive around the problem. For me the problem is over heating the clutch which reduces the clutch gap. It is possible that the clutch hasnt been centred on the flywheel properly which in your case could be the problem if it has never worked. Otherwise it could be aclutch release bearing problem, maybe its on backwards, as silly as it sounds it does happen and it does cause the same problems, because it over engages the clutch.

I am assuming you can actually shift gears when the car isnt going, also have to you tried to shift gears without your foot on the clutch at all..
 
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