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Hello my name is Maru I was active on this site a few years back. I have a 2007 Civic SI Fiji Blue at least it used to be before the clear coat self destructed. My poor car is in sad shape. I have had it since 2011 engine grenaded late 2017 and the poor thing has been sitting since. Ill post some pics when I get a chance. You ask why post about a car in such sad shape? well I am about to begin the path to bringing it back to life. Right now it sits with mods: RRC intake ported to 70 by me, 70mm throttle body, RDX injectors, full FD2 type r trans swap, type R flywheel, full round koni yellow shocks along with a full, spring upgrade, flashpro tuning. the engine going into this car is a 8th gen k20A RRC short block mated with a 4Piston 156pro rsp head. It is hard looking at a project from the beginning like this, it seams huge but the reward will be a car that should have existed but never did a FG type R coupe. i know its just a concept but i would like to see how far this can go. well hello I hope you enjoy following this project. PEACE
 
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Hello my name is Maru I was active on this site a few years back. I have a 2007 Civic SI Fiji Blue at least it used to be before the clear coat self destructed. My poor car is in sad shape. I have had it since 2011 engine grenaded late 2017 and the poor thing has been sitting since. Ill post some pics when I get a chance. You ask why post about a car in such sad shape? well I am about to begin the path to bringing it back to life. Right now it sits with mods: RRC intake ported to 70 by me, 70mm throttle body, RDX injectors, full FD2 type r trans swap, type R flywheel, full round koni yellow shocks along with a full, spring upgrade, flashpro tuning. the engine going into this car is a 8th gen k20A RRC short block mated with a 4Piston 156pro rsp head. It is hard looking at a project from the beginning like this, it seams huge but the reward will be a car that should have existed but never did a FG type R coupe. i know its just a concept but i would like to see how far this can go. well hello I hope you enjoy following this project. PEACE
If you posted some pics of the car and it’s paint I may be able to offer some advice on helping it look better for the time being. Regardless I’m sure some of the other members would enjoy another build thread to look through. A 4P head with a k20a block sounds like a good bit of fun. What camshafts will you be using ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you posted some pics of the car and it’s paint I may be able to offer some advice on helping it look better for the time being. Regardless I’m sure some of the other members would enjoy another build thread to look through. A 4P head with a k20a block sounds like a good bit of fun. What camshafts will you be using ?
oh the paints toast it has the fiji blue clearcoat cancer:/ so not worrying about it just scrubbing it with detergent. On top of that it got pelted by a hail storm so I'm considering some new skins prob just going to use a rattle can to cover any holes in the paint ya the paint literally bubbled off in some spots.
Well I have 2 sets of cams that can go into this build, First set is a set of Drag cartel DIC cams not supper aggressive but a good boost in lift on the non VTEC lobes much larger than stock and both lobes have equal lift so swirl delete:/ but you cant win them all, the second set is a set of PRC-003 cams that cam with the stock 8th gen k20a which are nothing to complain about either. I had a set in my Z3 noticeable bottom end gains but VTEC was nearly the same as the stock Z3 i think they have a bit more lift and duration compared to the 07 si cams. I do know how to swap cams in the car so if I has the PRC(type r) cams put in first it would not be a big deal for me to swap the DC cams in latter but I would like to have them clayed with the block anyway so I would know clearances and max advance for the after market set the stock set is safe to 50* from the factory.
Right now I am dealing with mouse hell, little turds decided to have a party over the winter(ya make sure your recirculate vent is closed, in the on position so rodents don't make their way in whenever you park). So I'm spending the next couple of weeks cleaning removing the seats cleaning the midden out of the blower motor which is right next to the intake and recirculate vents. took care of most of the mess last Friday and Sunday next step is remove the seats and clean the carpet. I have to get the rest of the parts to my engine in order so I can bring it to the builder at the end of the month, and get ready to ship the car cleaning and pest control and making transport arrangements. Sometimes country living is amazing but other times...
Well over all the car is in good shape minus the mouses, believe me mouse Armageddon is coming soon even though most of them are gone already. Only one spot of light rust and only light damage in the same panel RL on the bottom in the rocker area, backed into a rock in the snow, but right now not to worried about cosmetics that will be next year may even reskin the damaged panels but that's not the focus now. I am directing all my energy right now to getting the thing in a running condition again before the winter with good luck maybe.
We will see where this goes,
By for now
pics soon
...(TBC)
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hello my name is Maru I was active on this site a few years back
Welcome back Maru. I know you from my beginnings here from some IM posts. Great to have you back here!

k20A RRC short block mated with a 4Piston 156pro rsp head.
What is the planned redline of this engine and the application?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Welcome back Maru. I know you from my beginnings here from some IM posts. Great to have you back here!

What is the planned redline of this engine and the application?
Application is a street build redline the head is good to 11k plus but not going there probably going to set at 9k but could easily go as high as 9.5k. the weak point of the bottom end is the stock con rods and cast pistons so that is my big limiter rpm wise not looking to put a piston into my 8kcustom head. the head was built with such a safety margin to eliminate any bad harmonics and float at 8k plus rpm that is present with the stock springs there and higher as it only gets worse. so I will probably set shutoff at 9.2k but rarely ever go there. I have RDX injectors which can feed tons of fuel per min but I need a fuel pump upgrade which will be done during install so I don't lose FP during high draw as she peeks out at full draw with the stock pump. There is so much that needs to be done.
 
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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Application is a street build redline the head is good to 11k plus but not going there probably going to set at 9k but could easily go as high as 9.5k.
Sounds like a PSI valve spring and VTEC-less rocker set. The 11 krpm level is something the OEM like K-series combustion chamber looses much of it's efficiency which it has below 6.5 krpm. Anyway, good to know the valve spring and cam set would be able too... . BTW, the timing chain need more frequent exchange intervals when revving there as the plastic elongation is multiple times faster then in a stock car. Same is true for the TC guides.

the weak point of the bottom end is the stock con rods and cast pistons
Oha. Which brand and type of casted pistons? If they are just the OEM casted pistons, I would recommend a 8.8 krpm redline for acceleration and 8.2 krpm for high speed tracks and long distance racing.

The risk for the casted stuff is, OEM's design them for a low engine speed low load operation, so that the piston-liner-clearance is tight enough to keep blow by low and sealing of the chamber acceptable. If they were revved high for longer time they expand to very tight clearances, due to more heat flow from the more intense and more frequent combustion. This can leads to a piston seizure issue. Therefore the compensation approach of reducing redline.

BTW, to make that head helpful for increasing power, it need more revvs, which pulls a lot of changes with it. You should have improved parts for: IM, H, E, cams, CR and of course tuning. I developed an 86x86 NA engine for 310 [email protected] rpm and 200 flwftlb's of torque, without adapting the alternation of load path you will be limited by those parts thermodynamically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Sounds like a PSI valve spring and VTEC-less rocker set. The 11 krpm level is something the OEM like K-series combustion chamber looses much of it's efficiency which it has below 6.5 krpm. Anyway, good to know the valve spring and cam set would be able too... . BTW, the timing chain need more frequent exchange intervals when revving there as the plastic elongation is multiple times faster then in a stock car. Same is true for the TC guides.

Oha. Which brand and type of casted pistons? If they are just the OEM casted pistons, I would recommend a 8.8 krpm redline for acceleration and 8.2 krpm for high speed tracks and long distance racing.

The risk for the casted stuff is, OEM's design them for a low engine speed low load operation, so that the piston-liner-clearance is tight enough to keep blow by low and sealing of the chamber acceptable. If they were revved high for longer time they expand to very tight clearances, due to more heat flow from the more intense and more frequent combustion. This can leads to a piston seizure issue. Therefore the compensation approach of reducing redline.

BTW, to make that head helpful for increasing power, it need more revvs, which pulls a lot of changes with it. You should have improved parts for: IM, H, E, cams, CR and of course tuning. I developed an 86x86 NA engine for 310 [email protected] rpm and 200 flwftlb's of torque, without adapting the alternation of load path you will be limited by those parts thermodynamically.
They are the rrc pistons and yes psi springs but keeping the vtec so thats a big limiter ill probably safe at 8800, its not about max power or high rpm but a sweet band between 5000-8200 and valve stability outside of that I am not that interested as its not a drag build but a street/road build which has a much wider range of rev power needs. looking at what you said i think we on the same page how all this decides to chime together we'll see. the theme from the beginning has been oem mods minus my struts and springs everything else is factory. so thats the direction I am going with it. i plan to run it slow most of the time anyway minus a couple of italian valve jobs now and then.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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They are the rrc pistons and yes psi springs but keeping the vtec so thats a big limiter ill probably safe at 8800, its not about max power or high rpm but a sweet band between 5000-8200 and valve stability outside of that I am not that interested as its not a drag build but a street/road build which has a much wider range of rev power needs
Ok, 8.8 krpm sounds fine for OEM pistons and your application.

i plan to run it slow most of the time anyway minus a couple of italian valve jobs now and then.
What are italian valve jobs? Does 4Piston not the final valve seat cut to adapt the valves and their seats?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, 8.8 krpm sounds fine for OEM pistons and your application.

What are italian valve jobs? Does 4Piston not the final valve seat cut to adapt the valves and their seats?
Italian valve job ok, lots of time fast cars like Ferraris, lambs and such don't ever get driven the way they are meant to so gunk builds up in the intake valves and in the past carbs so when the rich guy would bring the car to the mech with the complaint of bad performance because he never takes it out of 2nd the mech basically warms it up very important for hondas toyotas and italians takes it to the freeway and romps on it so the fuel runs and flushes out the coking and gunk buildup around the valves and intake and injectors cleaning it out, after that things usually run well again. that is an italian valve job. Ferrari still does this officially on their test track in intaly they take a car in in the us ship it to italy race it around their track a few times ship it back and charge you 10-20k for maintenance.
 
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