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Now i just picked up a k20a3 motor for my teggy. Im going to boost it. i really want mid 400's but as im reading this motor pops at high psi levels and high rpm levels. what do i have to change to get that hp level? do i have to sleeve/rods/pistons/head work?. or just changed the rods and bearings and get a good tune?or would it be easier to get a stock k24 bottom end and swap the a3 head on it? will that make my goal. what are your opions on what i should do. please let me know

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Now i just picked up a k20a3 motor for my teggy. Im going to boost it. i really want mid 400's but as im reading this motor pops at high psi levels and high rpm levels. what do i have to change to get that hp level? do i have to sleeve/rods/pistons/head work?. or just changed the rods and bearings and get a good tune?or would it be easier to get a stock k24 bottom end and swap the a3 head on it? will that make my goal. what are your opions on what i should do. please let me know

thanx
First off, why would you want to put an a3 head on any motor????

If you do a head swap it should be to an a2 head, not an a3 head.

the motor you should look into if you want to stay away from the a3 bottom end is a CRV motor and swap the type-s head onto it if you are trying to run it on the stock bottom end because the CRV has the proper valve clearance issues with the k20a2 head.

You can always build the bottom end of the k20a3 (pistons & rods) and put a type-s head on that and you would have a strong setup.

Do yourself a favor, ditch the k20a3 and get a real k-series motor. Why dump thousands of dollars into a k-swap that will have less power than a GSR motor.
 

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you are right, i didnt know that the setup would be real bad. but as you were saying, i can build the a3 bottom end with rods and pistons, and just do a stock k20 type s head and i could get my power goal? if thats the case ill do that and scrapp the a3 head all together?
 

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you are right, i didnt know that the setup would be real bad. but as you were saying, i can build the a3 bottom end with rods and pistons, and just do a stock k20 type s head and i could get my power goal? if thats the case ill do that and scrapp the a3 head all together?
yes, re-use your k20a3 block, do a piston, rod combo (I would suggest spending more money on a good set of rods and pistons rather than bothering to sleeve the motor) and use a stock k20a2 head on there. That would give you a solid built bottom end to start off with and it will easily give you your 400whp goal and will be good for in excess of 550-600whp before I would even think about sleeving the motor. I do suggest that you use a good rod like manely and a good piston like CP with a fresh set of OEM bearings, a final hone of your k20a3 when you build the motor and freshen up all the wear and tear items
 

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You can just buy a 2.4L long block, the heads flow pretty well. Do rods and pistons on that, maybe a little head work and use all the rest of the components that you need off the A3 motor...

Just a cheaper alternative that can still get you to your 400hp goals with the right turbo setup...
 

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if you do use the a3 bottom end.. to use rods and pistons you will need an a2 crank also
just a little food for thought
 

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yes a3 cranks have the exact same rod journal size as B series engines. a2 cranks have bigger rod journals.
 

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yeah, forgot to mention about getting the a2 crank, lol. I guess I was thinking that was a given. The blocks are pretty much identical other than the internals and the fact that the a2 has oil squirters.
 

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if your gonna run forged internals , the squirters arent needed. if you need any K series parts ep let me know i have a bunch here for sale.
 

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if your gonna run forged internals , the squirters arent needed. if you need any K series parts ep let me know i have a bunch here for sale.
This is the first time I have come across this? Why would you not need the oil squirters if you run forged pistons and rods?
 
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