So I have a 98 ex. I'm using the Hasport EKK2 mount kits. I swapped in a ps crossmember and rack from an ITR. Everything went fine, and then I try to put the rear bracket in place. Clink... Won't fit. The bracket hits the p/s line.
When you try to put it in place, the holes are misaligned by about 8mm. So, add some clearance around the line, and I would have to grind a notch at least a 1/2 inch into the bracket to clear the line. I did some digging and found that is exactly what some people have done to address this problem :
I just got back from the auto parts store. Got a bender and flare tool in case I have to cut the line and shorten it to drop it down.
I've just gotten thoroughly annoyed as you spend $$$ for the mounts, then more $$$ to replace all of the rusty hardware in the kit, painted the mounts with rust inhibitive paint due to all of the chipped powder-coating, and now more because it doesn't fit...
If the kit had instructions that said "hey, this line needs to be modified", then I could have already been ready to address that when I encountered the problem.... oh well...
dang T that sucks. Haven't dropped my block in due to funds and work but i have the cross member laying their. I'll see if I have the same issue w/ mine tomorrow.
dang T that sucks. Haven't dropped my block in due to funds and work but i have the cross member laying their. I'll see if I have the same issue w/ mine tomorrow.
when u'll finish the swap mang let me know have a friend works in waters by brancca he got a si k20 swap there let me know we can meet u there he'll hook it up witht he food there in waters mang
:up: :up: :up: :up:
I got it taken care of. It involved a hacksaw and a flare tool. The fittings on the line were too soft to remove even with a pipe/tube fitting wrench. So I hacksawed the line flush with the fitting. I then straightened the line enough to slide the fitting back about 2 inches and used the flare tool to reflare the line. Then slide the fitting back over the flare and re-bend the line to go in the hole.
I took pics. Its 2:30 and the motor was just dropped in 1/2 hr ago, so pics will come whenever I climb my behind out of bed in the morning.
My gripe with hasport over this is that this should have been documented so customers could be prepared to address it. The fact that I had to discover this and solve it on my own after paying $$$ for these mounts makes me feel like hasport does not value *MY* time...
I got it taken care of. It involved a hacksaw and a flare tool. The fittings on the line were too soft to remove even with a pipe/tube fitting wrench. So I hacksawed the line flush with the fitting. I then straightened the line enough to slide the fitting back about 2 inches and used the flare tool to reflare the line. Then slide the fitting back over the flare and re-bend the line to go in the hole.
I took pics. Its 2:30 and the motor was just dropped in 1/2 hr ago, so pics will come whenever I climb my behind out of bed in the morning.
My gripe with hasport over this is that this should have been documented so customers could be prepared to address it. The fact that I had to discover this and solve it on my own after paying $$$ for these mounts makes me feel like hasport does not value *MY* time...
Seriously... now i'm really pissed cuz i already had my mounts powder coated wrinkle black due to the shitty paint job they did on the mounts and may i add the welds aren't all that clean as well. looks like more money is gonna be spent on fixing this issue w/ the mounts. thanks for the heads up T. I definitely will see whats up with mine tomorrow. To think Hasport wouldn't have noticed it or warned its customers. Guess they were to busy selling mounts or getting the first set of mounts out... In any case I tore my rear subframe so yeah my main concern is getting that fixed rite now
when u'll finish the swap mang let me know have a friend works in waters by brancca he got a si k20 swap there let me know we can meet u there he'll hook it up witht he food there in waters mang
:up: :up: :up: :up:
haven't forgotten about you lol... got my rear 5 lug on but haven't swapped the arp studs out but have the torn subframe. got your number. once its up and running i will meet up lol as of rite now my only means of transportation is my bike and thats nothing to show off lol... well its a silver r6 modded
kommon I assume you def wanted to keep power steering? I am using a power rack but only for the better ratio on the pinion. Glad to see you got it fixed, the thread title had me worried there!
T post up those pictures if you can. I just tested my rear mount on the cross member and it does not fit at all too much interference w/ the p/s line. don't want to file away at the mount so i think i might just have to cut the p/s line and re-flare the line perhaps make it shorter and bend it a bit. can you show me whats the best way as this will be the first time i've flared anything of this sort. thanks -steve-
kommon I assume you def wanted to keep power steering? I am using a power rack but only for the better ratio on the pinion. Glad to see you got it fixed, the thread title had me worried there!
Correct. The integra p/s rack has the best ratio lock to lock of any of the racks that can be used in this setup.
I ended up cutting the line just above the fitting and reflared the line. The flare tool is fairly easy to use. It was the first time that I had ever used one. I had to bend the line fairly straight in order to slide the fitting back enough to use the flare tool. So you have to take your time to make sure you do not damage the line. You can see that I had plenty of clearance after modifying the line.
The last pics show the bracket tightened down into position.
hey T how much of the piping did you cut? I noticed you said cut it rite above the nut but was that all? did you also use any lock tyte on it when bolt it back in?
I cut exactly where the red arrow is, so my cut was flush with the top of the fitting. Worked out perfectly. I rarely use loctite. I put a little anti-seize on the threads and tightened the fitting.
I cut exactly where the red arrow is, so my cut was flush with the top of the fitting. Worked out perfectly. I rarely use loctite. I put a little anti-seize on the threads and tightened the fitting.
cool... thanks T.. i'm gonna go look for a flare tool so I can get this out of the way this week. and i couldn't quite tell but how much clearance do you have w/ the line? you didn't have to bend it at all rite? it just kind of drops down itself and clears the bracket correct? did you test if the mount clears it as well?
cool... thanks T.. i'm gonna go look for a flare tool so I can get this out of the way this week. and i couldn't quite tell but how much clearance do you have w/ the line? you didn't have to bend it at all rite? it just kind of drops down itself and clears the bracket correct? did you test if the mount clears it as well?
you have to straighten the line in order to use the flare tool, and then you have to bend it back into shape. Bend the line slowly to make sure you don't break or kink it.
The pictures of my fix are with the bracket already in place and tightened down. Everything clears fine
hahahha. on another note T, I have some rust on my crossmember what would I use to coat it after i take off some of the rust? the krylon rust preventer? if so which one?
Back from the dead... Kinda... Anyway, was wondering if the EKK2 rear mount/bracket was the same as the EGK1 rear mount/bracket. I just assumed it was. If it was, wouldn't the EGK1 kit have the same DC2 power steering rack issue?
Looks like I'm safe then. I'm planning on doing the DC2 PS setup on my Del Sol.
So, is the rear bracket and/or mount interchangable between EKK2 and EGK1? I always thought that with the EKK2 the engine was positioned the same as the EGK1 relative to the EG/DC crossmember.
Yeah, I've done that there are a couple different part numbers from 94-01. The 94-97 is different from the 98-01. Any idea which rack should be used for the eg subframe??????
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