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Discussion Starter #1
Ok gang, first post here.

I've got an 88 DX hatch and my K20A swap just arrived today from hmotorsonline.com. I've done someof the engine bay prep already and now have a coupla questions on the fuel setup.

1) For those not using the original fuel filter, what are people using to connect to the fuel line? Once the filter and hose are removed, it looks like the fitting is a 14 x 1.5 metric male compression fitting. I can't seem to find any fittings to connect to that.

2) Everyone seems to be using a flow-through aftermarket fuel rail (AEM, K-Tuned, Golden Eagle), with the filter on the input side and the regulator on the output. Would it not be just as effective (and simpler) to route the filter to one of the two inputs on the regulator and then connect the other hi-pressure connection from the regulator to the original stock fuel rail (and low pressure side to the return line)? This gives a proper return style system with appropriate pressure delivered to the rail. What am I missing?

Thanks for any and all help. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I progress. And I'll get some pics up pronto, too.

--Andy
 

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1) If you are not using the original Fuel Filter, then you will need to run a steel braided line from the engine bay to the gas tank. Then you will need to buy fittings for the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter...

2) What are you trying to avoid by suggesting an alternative setup? Even with the flow through fuel rail, you can still plug one side of it if it is your preference to have a single line running into the rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1) If you are not using the original Fuel Filter, then you will need to run a steel braided line from the engine bay to the gas tank. Then you will need to buy fittings for the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter...
Why all the way to the gas tank? Why not just plumb to the existing line? Or are you saying that it is impossible to find a metric-to-AN converter fitting with a female metric side?

2) What are you trying to avoid by suggesting an alternative setup? Even with the flow through fuel rail, you can still plug one side of it if it is your preference to have a single line running into the rail.
I guess I see going non-stock as being "alternative". :)

Why buy an aftermarket fuel rail when the stocker will do?

Thanks for the response, BTW!

--Andy
 

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Why all the way to the gas tank? Why not just plumb to the existing line? Or are you saying that it is impossible to find a metric-to-AN converter fitting with a female metric side?



I guess I see going non-stock as being "alternative". :)

Why buy an aftermarket fuel rail when the stocker will do?

Thanks for the response, BTW!

--Andy
Well I dont know if it is impossible but I sure as hell couldnt find one when I needed one. There's nothing wrong with using the factory one but if you want to use a different one, then be prepared to spend the cheese to be different. Its just like what you wrote above. I'll edit your response and send it back to you....
.....Why buy an aftermarket fuel filter when the stocker will do?......
Now for the Fuel Rail, Aside from it lookign tacky IMO, an aftermarket Fuel rail will not only look better but can provide different options for fuel setup in case you want to change it up, or add a sensor or Fuel Pressure gauge on the rail, or whatever your thing is.. Bottom line is it provides additional options and helps give that bling factor... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I dont know if it is impossible but I sure as hell couldnt find one when I needed one. There's nothing wrong with using the factory one but if you want to use a different one, then be prepared to spend the cheese to be different. Its just like what you wrote above. I'll edit your response and send it back to you....
Yeah, ok you got me there! :eek: And I may just use the original. But it is a bit more difficult to get it mounted securely once you move it. That was my motivation.

--Andy
 

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Yeah, ok you got me there! :eek: And I may just use the original. But it is a bit more difficult to get it mounted securely once you move it. That was my motivation.

--Andy
Well I simply relocated my factory one and used it without no problems.... you can do that or you can go with option B... Choice is yours.. Either way GL.
 

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You can cut the fuel line and reflare in to -AN

you would need a : -4AN tube nut, tube sleeve, and a 37deg.flare tool(not 45deg.). Once you reflare you can use a -4 to -6 reducer to run the -6 line.

dont know if it helps...............
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1) For those not using the original fuel filter, what are people using to connect to the fuel line? Once the filter and hose are removed, it looks like the fitting is a 14 x 1.5 metric male compression fitting. I can't seem to find any fittings to connect to that.
Answering my own question...I was looking for something else and came upon a source for a fitting that will connect to the OE fitting mentioned above and convert to AN. It's a 14x1.5 metric female to 6-AN male flare, and it is sold by Kinsler under part #6188. And if you've never seen their catalog before, check it out. 266 pages of fuel injection heaven, with lots of good tech info.

www.kinsler.com

And while I'm at it, here's another fuel question...the EF Civic in-tank fuel pump is rated at 36 psi, while the RSX manual says the K-motor wants 47-54. Are people just tuning around the lower fuel pressure with increased injector dwell? Or am I missing something?

--Andy
 
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