Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner
1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
15,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
thanks to Vuaccord. he wrote:
Ok, found a solution for my return line. total cost 3.99. What I did was visited my local hardware store and found barb fittings.
1. 1 - 1\4in bard fitting for the return line hose(stock rubber hose) to the hardline.
2. 1 - 5\16 barb fitting to the fpr -6an hose.

In my case all they had instock that would work would be a 5\16 male elbow and 1\4 female fitting. Which resulted in 3.99. This is one of many ways you can do it.






Here is my parts list for my fuel system with -6an lines with Golden eagle fuel rail and my Edelbrock EFI FPR with dual -6 an input and single -6an out.

QTY - Part #

001 EAR-807691ERL - earl banjo - Fitting, Carburetor Inlet, Hose End, Single Banjo -6 AN to 12mm x 1.25, Swivel Seal, Red/Blue, Each
18.39

002 SUM-220632 - Fitting, Coupler, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
1.69

002 SUM-220686 - Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -6 AN, Swivel, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each
12.95

001 SUM-220687 - Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN, Swivel, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each
12.95

001 SUM-220690 - Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN, Swivel, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each (I orginally order two because I thought the bango required a fitting, but you don't so I changed it to 1)
4.25

001 SUM-220844 - Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -8 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
4.95

001 SUM-230606 - Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 6 ft. Length, Each
23.95

www.summitracing.com





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
also, is there a way to attach the braided line to the hardline (going to the fuel pump) directly, for a cleaner job? i was reading about somewhere and there was some AN adapter to thread onto a hardline... i cant remmeber where i saw it though

ALSO: on the AEM universal FPR, what are the size of the fittings needed?

EDIT: i found this, can it be used to attach the flexable hose to the hardlines?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2886&prmenbr=361
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
NickZED20 said:
also, is there a way to attach the braided line to the hardline (going to the fuel pump) directly, for a cleaner job? i was reading about somewhere and there was some AN adapter to thread onto a hardline... i cant remmeber where i saw it though

ALSO: on the AEM universal FPR, what are the size of the fittings needed?

EDIT: i found this, can it be used to attach the flexable hose to the hardlines?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2886&prmenbr=361
yeah I notice hardline fittings, but what size is the thing, most of the time they will have it for standard size, but for metric, is another thing. Some don't want to give up size of the hardline and the fitting needed. Other than that I would have went for that option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
it looks like the hardlines are 1/4 inch... or a metric equivalent

i think im going to cut both inlet and return hardlines down the about the bottom of the firewall, then do a standard double flare for a 1/4 inch nut, and then thread on a barbed hose adapter and then just clamp it down to that... shoud be clean...

similar to what you did, except eliminate the rubber hose all together and the 90 degree bend by putting in a flare and then just threading it all together :up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
about hooking up the FPR, can you use the left side of the FPR as an inlet, then the bottom a return directly to the return line comming from under the car, and the right side as an outlet going to the fuel rail? and then plugging the other side of the fuel rail?

im not sure how the FPR works, if that would work then i figured out a pretty clean way to do this fuel system
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
NickZED20 said:
about hooking up the FPR, can you use the left side of the FPR as an inlet, then the bottom a return directly to the return line comming from under the car, and the right side as an outlet going to the fuel rail? and then plugging the other side of the fuel rail?

im not sure how the FPR works, if that would work then i figured out a pretty clean way to do this fuel system
I was initially going to hook up mine that way since others say they have had no problems w/ that setup, but most FPR manufacturers do not recommend it. I had emailed Aeromotive's Technical Support asking if this is cool w/ them and this is what they had to say:

"Your plumbing preference is possible and the 13109 regulator would be installed as you described. The down side to locating the regulator before the fuel rail is that the rail is then excluded from the dynamic (flowing) loop of fuel that is present always, between the pump and the regulator.

Maintaining fuel at spec pressure, at the inlet of each injector is greatly enhanced when all the fuel the flow volume and velocity generated by the fuel pump MUST flow through the fuel rail to get to the regulator bypass. With this approach, the fuel rail is always flowing the maximum volume the pump can pump at system pressure, regardless of engine load/injector duty cycle. With the regulator before the fuel rail, the rail is considered “dead” or out of the dynamic flow loop. As such, fuel only flows into the fuel rail as the rail empties. Because injectors open and close in “pulses”, pressure drops and fluctuations that result are more radical in a dead rail. These increased hydraulic fluctuations can negatively impact flow to and through all injectors in that fuel rail. Though it is done this way, you shouldn’t do it unless you have no other choice."
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
15,811 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good info. However, I think the hasport 300whp k24a/k20a2 H1 Integra has it like that. Also I am not 100% positive but it looks like hondata's race car eg k20a has it also like that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
I think I remember Brian G. from Hasport saying that up to 200 and some odd number HP (can't remember the exact number), it's good, but anything above that they would run it the way that the FPR manufacturers recommend.

I figured I'd just play it safe...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
i think as long as you have sufficient fuel pressure you wont have much to worry about

ive got a pimp part lis that takes care of the fuel system, ill post up my list and pics when it all gets done in maybe 2 months

1 Jeg's Fuel Pressure Gauge - 0-100 psi Black Face Fuel Pressure Gauge
555-41013 $19.99 $19.99
1 Earl's In-Line Fuel Filter - AN Size: -06 Male
361-230106 $27.99 $27.99
1 Earl's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -08AN/-06AN
361-991912 $5.99 $5.99
1 Earl's Hard-Line ''AN'' Tube Nuts & Sleeves - -04AN; 2/pkg
361-581804 $3.69 $3.69
1 Earl's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -06AN/-04AN
361-991906 $3.99 $3.99
1 Earl's Hard-Line ''AN'' Tube Nuts & Sleeves - -04AN; 2/pkg
361-581904 $1.69 $1.69
1 Earl's ''AN'' Plug Fittings - -08AN
361-980608 $2.69 $2.69
1 Earl's Auto-Flex Stainless Steel Braided Hose - AN Size: -06 (3/8''); 6' Foot Length
361-306006 $31.99 $31.99
3 Earl's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -06AN/-06AN
361-981506 $2.99 $8.97
3 Earl's ''AN'' Auto-Fit Aluminum Hose End Fittings - -06AN
361-300106 $5.99 $17.97
1 Earl's Hose End Assembly Lube - Assembly Lube 8 oz. Bottle
361-184004 $6.99 $6.99
3 Earl's ''AN'' Swivel-Seal Hose End Fittings - -06AN
361-804606 $15.99 $47.97
1 Jeg's ''AN'' Female to ''AN'' Male Reducers - -6 AN Female to -4 AN Male Reducer
555-100221 $4.99 $4.99
Subtotal $184.91
Handling $8.99
TOTAL $193.90

Im going to be running an AEM FPR

the system will work like this:

Inlet will have a sleeve and coupler with 37 degree flare, then the reducer with female -6AN will go to the inline fuel filter, which will go to a 45 degree swivel seal... this will be hooked up via braided line to a 45 degree swivel seal attached to the FPR inlet, which has a -6AN union on it

the return line will consist of a -6AN union off the FPR going to a 45 degree swivel seal, then braided line to a straight hose end, which is attached to a reducer (the one which is both male) then to the sleeve and coupler with a 37 degree flare

then the outlet will be a straight hose end on the outlet of the FPR attached with a union, and then braided hose to another straight hose end and a reducer to attach to a -8AN hole on the fuel rail, with the other end of the rail blocked off with the plug.

the FPR will be mounted on the strut tower right at the end of the brake master cylinder... similar to that shown here:



i found this to be the cleanest way of doing it, plus the cheapest since im making the lines myself... if i screwed up on anything let me know, but it all makes sense in my mind

what i did was cut the inlet line while it was facing straight up with a tube cutter, and the other one will be cut right after the existing flare to eliminate a 45 degree hose end there

also, the stock lines are 1/4 which means that the -4AN coupler and sleeve are needed to be used when flaring, since it is made for that size of line... so the reducer changes it into the "standard" -6AN line

of course the gauge attached right on the FPR

i think all said and done, it will be a really clean setup
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
98specR said:
do you think it would have a lot to do with what type of fuel pump you are running?
I don't know if you were addressing that question to me or not, but I am no fluid dynamics expert, so I really couldn't say. I do not believe so, but maybe someone could prove me wrong. I think the whole key to it is that the regulator does it's job best at maintaining constant pressure w/ the fluid between itself and the pump. I would think that you would want your injectors within that loop. The intension of that second port in the FPR is for the scenario of having 2 fuel rails. I'd also say that the FPR was designed to do it's job best w/ fluid flowing into both of those ports and not out of one (except for the return of course...). This is all just my opinion, so if someone wiser would care to elaborate, please do so...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
Karcepts said:
I don't know if you were addressing that question to me or not, but I am no fluid dynamics expert, so I really couldn't say. I do not believe so, but maybe someone could prove me wrong. I think the whole key to it is that the regulator does it's job best at maintaining constant pressure w/ the fluid between itself and the pump. I would think that you would want your injectors within that loop. The intension of that second port in the FPR is for the scenario of having 2 fuel rails. I'd also say that the FPR was designed to do it's job best w/ fluid flowing into both of those ports and not out of one (except for the return of course...). This is all just my opinion, so if someone wiser would care to elaborate, please do so...
you could run smaller inejectors down the runners to make for better mist from the swirl of the intake, and then another set for direct port injection

kinda like what Hotwheelz from clubrsx did... that was a really cool setup

i wonder if this would be possible to run off the same injector plugs, and they could fire simultaneously, and make it work by properly sizing both injectors?

or would you have to get a MotecM4 so that you can control the injectors individually?
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top