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Discussion Starter #1
so yea today was a great day ....next day after finishing the swap motor started up, no engine codes ....just had to figure out the vss problem and the speedometer not working ....so i was content with how everything was going up until i went to test the output signal on the vss with the volt meter........well not sure if this is what caused it but i accidently put power to the 12v power wire(Yel/red)on the vss n then came that burnt wire smell went inside the car and tried to turn the motor on and nothing happened...unplugged the ecu and opened it up and this is what i found......


Right now motivation is down to zero...just taking opinions on what caused this ...:(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Man... did you repin your 05-06 engine harness to an 04?
yeap...and car started up with no problems for 3 days straight...drove it a few times ...the only thing that wasnt working was the vss ....thats what i was trying to get working today so ican pop vtec.....the burnt smell came right after i put positive power on the yel/red wire on the vss...this sucks you guys think this is fixable or will i have to get a new kpro??
 

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from the looks of it I doubt its fixable...

From my knowledge there is no real connection between that board and the speed converter.

Drop me a call tomorrow and we can try and help you figure out what went wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm wondering here. did you follow the directions or did you mess something up to cause this to fry? you said you accidentally put 12v to a wire. which wire was this and what do the instructions say?
i installed the vss converter according to instructions...i didnt have a problem with installing it ..still the speedometer was not working everytime i took the car out for a drive...so theres was nothing wrong with the ecu and the car would start up and run everytime...the problem came when i tried to troubleshoot the vss sensor...i think my mistake was putting a volt tester with power to the yel/red wire (12v power)on the vss to get a volt reading instead of the blue (signal output on vss sensor)...of course i should have known this ...well right after this is when i started smelling the burning.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
a volt tester? do you mean a multi meter, or a continuity tester?
heres what i used.......


POWER PROBE III

A multitude of testers right at your fingertips! **Testlight **20 ft jumper lead **Continuity tester **Bad ground indicator **Short circuit indicator **Relay & component tester
Safely power up or ground circuits instantly with the press of a button. A circuit breaker protects the vehicles electrical system and your Power Probe.
20ft jumper lead allows you to test bumper to bumper on most vehicles. The 20" extension lead gives you 40" of lead making it great for RV'S, trucks and trailers. A cigarette lighter adapter is also included.
Full functioning voltmeter measures in 1/10th of a volt increments from 1/10th of 1 volt up to 70 volts.
You can now easily perform voltage drop tests without having to grab your multimeter.
Now with easy to read dual polarity indicators. A red (+) symbol indicates positive and a green (-) symbol indicates negative.
Test continuity, relays, and find bad grounds instantly.
 

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yea that looks like the culprit of the fried ecu. you put 12v with a bunch of amperage behind it to a lead that's supposed to receive a 5v signal from a sensor most likely. you should have sent the vss converter back instead of hooking that thing up.

Were you trying to see if the vss converter was functioning or the ecu was functioning though?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea that looks like the culprit of the fried ecu. you put 12v with a bunch of amperage behind it to a lead that's supposed to receive a 5v signal from a sensor most likely. you should have sent the vss converter back instead of hooking that thing up.

Were you trying to see if the vss converter was functioning or the ecu was functioning though?
yea i realize that now a lil too late ...well the only reason i was trying to test the vehicle speed sensor was because will at hybrid had me speak to someone about it and he told me to check the output coming from the sensor itself........i didnt mess with the converter at all so i should be able to send that back for the new version...........i was checking the signal output from the vss sensor as a troubleshoot... so yea i was trying to find out if the converter was working or not ...theres was nothin wrong with my ecu before all this
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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For $100 it might be worth it.

I would take the Kpro board our of the ECU and just send him that.

This way if nothing comes of it you still have your ECU.

That is a smoking deal if it works out.
:up:
 

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heres what i used.......


POWER PROBE III

A multitude of testers right at your fingertips! **Testlight **20 ft jumper lead **Continuity tester **Bad ground indicator **Short circuit indicator **Relay & component tester
Safely power up or ground circuits instantly with the press of a button. A circuit breaker protects the vehicles electrical system and your Power Probe.
20ft jumper lead allows you to test bumper to bumper on most vehicles. The 20" extension lead gives you 40" of lead making it great for RV'S, trucks and trailers. A cigarette lighter adapter is also included.
Full functioning voltmeter measures in 1/10th of a volt increments from 1/10th of 1 volt up to 70 volts.
You can now easily perform voltage drop tests without having to grab your multimeter.
Now with easy to read dual polarity indicators. A red (+) symbol indicates positive and a green (-) symbol indicates negative.
Test continuity, relays, and find bad grounds instantly.

In the hands of an unexperienced person these tools can be very very dangerous. PLEASE PLEASE take caution when you are using this tool around ECU connectors,circuits,etc. Considering that this Power probe has the ability to apply battery voltage to whatever it touches one wrong push and you fry components fast.

I have seen countless techs bust out this probe and ruin very expensive parts. My advice to you is get a quality DMM and use this tool for troubleshooting.

The daughterboard is toast and the remains of which looks to be a diode is toast also the IC next to the burnt area is possibly toast. Parts can be replaced but the damage to the board and the traces that are less than paper thin below that area is your problem. Once the traces fry below that fiberglass board its gameover.

I have seen attempts of trying to repair the traces with wire jumpers the added resistance in the wire throws everything out of wack. From the looks of it your gonna be buying another Kpro daughterboard at least.

Cause: Its a short now if it was a short to power or short to ground thats hard to determine by the pics. Also on over-voltage could have been applied in which case this certain component/circuit couldn't take it. Example circuit is a 3-5volt circuit and you applied 12.8v to the wire going into the ECU this would happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In the hands of an unexperienced person these tools can be very very dangerous. PLEASE PLEASE take caution when you are using this tool around ECU connectors,circuits,etc. Considering that this Power probe has the ability to apply battery voltage to whatever it touches one wrong push and you fry components fast.

I have seen countless techs bust out this probe and ruin very expensive parts. My advice to you is get a quality DMM and use this tool for troubleshooting.

The daughterboard is toast and the remains of which looks to be a diode is toast also the IC next to the burnt area is possibly toast. Parts can be replaced but the damage to the board and the traces that are less than paper thin below that area is your problem. Once the traces fry below that fiberglass board its gameover.

I have seen attempts of trying to repair the traces with wire jumpers the added resistance in the wire throws everything out of wack. From the looks of it your gonna be buying another Kpro daughterboard at least.

Cause: Its a short now if it was a short to power or short to ground thats hard to determine by the pics. Also on over-voltage could have been applied in which case this certain component/circuit couldn't take it. Example circuit is a 3-5volt circuit and you applied 12.8v to the wire going into the ECU this would happen.
it makes a lot of sense....i mean the second i put power to that wire is when it all happened....well all i could do is learn from this ...oh yea and get a new kpro....i wonder if the ecu itself is still in good condition??
 

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it makes a lot of sense....i mean the second i put power to that wire is when it all happened....well all i could do is learn from this ...oh yea and get a new kpro....i wonder if the ecu itself is still in good condition??
In theory it should be. As soon as you melted the component/trace and the trace went open it should have halted the flow of voltage anywhere else. Kinda like blowing a bridge up.

The weakest link gave out which hopefully saved your ECU but considering the cost of the ECU vs. Kpro I would have rather melted the ECU.
 
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